MDG9520BWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Yanked the front panel, observed motor operation while my smoking hot wife started the unit. Our washer and dryer get beaten like rented mules with kid laundry. I tried this site, and decided to spend a little $$ on a replacement motor. I was impressed with the operator, she even asked what the symptoms were and helped to avoid wasting time and money.
The part arrived on time, and installed quickly. I am a hero in my wife's eyes, and that certainly carries weight.
Then again, I didn't have to dispose of the old dryer, pay for a new one, or haul the replacement upstairs.
Win-win!

I set the dryer on its back to make alignment of the front drum guide cover easy to reinstall in the seal after completion. I removed the 2 screws at the bottom front then removed the white and yellow wires to the interlock switch and set the front cover aside. I then removed the 4 nut screws holding the front drum cover and removed. On the back side there are two teflon and cork "bearings". I had ordered two even though only one was worn down to metal. On each one I then removed the two rivets by drilling them out. Then I placed the corks into the bearing slots with a little glue then inserted the teflon into the slots and riveted them into place with the rivets that came with the kit. I replaced the drum cover, connected the switch and screwed the dryer front cover back on. I set the dryer back up. Connected the vent hose and turned the dryer on. Beautiful sweet smooth and quiet operation. I had replaced the front and back drum seals a few months ago and saw the teflon was missing but did not have the kits at that time. With a complete job I would recommend replacing the front and rear drum seals and the two teflon/cork bearing kits at the same time.

The support rollers were fried, literally. I'm honestly surprised they held on. Let's just say that the "roller" part wasn't even attached to the support wheel... That bad. Because there wasn't much support there is a small tear in the metal on the back drum. The felt seal for the drum had basically been worn down to pieces. So I order two drum support rollers, two roller shafts, a new drum felt seal, and a new rib belt.

After the repair, no more squeaking, literally a huge difference, and because of there's plenty of support now for the drum, there isn't any clothes being torn. If it weren't for the videos and the parts, we would of spent hundreds of dollars on a new dryer. Instead we spent just over $100 and now our dryer is quiet and operating better than when we got it.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site.
1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.
2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.
3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.
4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.
5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.
6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.
7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)
8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.

It's simple.

First this I did was to disconnect the power cord. Then I removed the screws that held on the door and the two on the other opposite side. This allowed the front panel to be removed. Next I removed the top two screws which allowed the top to hinge up and out of the way. Then I removed the rest of the screws that held the front drum support and moved it to the side. I did have to unclip the wires that ran to the interior light. I did not how ever have to disconnect any wires at the front of the dryer. Next I reached in from the bottom of the drum and released the drive belt from the spring loaded pulley. at this point the drum was able to be removed out the front of the unit. This gave access to the motor. It was necessary to remove the several screws that held on the front half of the fan housing. Again I did not remove any wires as this too could be moved to the side out of the way. I then removed the snap ring and clamp from the fan end of the motor shaft and pulled the fan off of the shaft. Next I unclipped the wiring connector from the top of the motor and used a screw driver to pry the connector off. Next I used a socket on a long extension to push down on the motor clamps while tilting the socket out to allow the clips to release. I then removed and replaced the motor and assembled in the reverse order. While I had the drum out I inspected the rear support wheels and noted that one would hardly turn. I removed both wheels via a nut on the back side of the shafts. I found that one had shifted on the bushing and was making contact with the frame. I used a vise to press the wheel back into the correct location. I also applied anti seize with a small amount of dry graphite to both wheels and insured that the both rotated freely. I then installed the front two glide slide pads using the pop rivets provided in the kits. I used a shop vac and cleaned any lint from inside the dryer. I then reassembled the front covers in reverse of the disassembly process. I rotated the drum by hand prior to applying power. I also ran the unit with the heat off for the first five minutes. Total cost was under $160.00 or half of the replacement cost.

Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.

Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. Then closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.

I simply went on line and ordered the part. I had it shipped to my office since I am here all day, M-F. I received the part in 2 days. I took it home, pulled out the old lint filter and slid in the new one. It is amazing how much more efficient my dryer is. The old lint filter had about a 6 inch tear in it so it was not catching all the lint.

I inserted the clip

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

Old latch and door striker were pried out with a flat blade screwdriver. New components popped right in. Repair was less than two minutes.

Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

My dryer stopped producing heat and everything else was working fine. I did some research on this site and others had the similar problem pointing to the ignitor going bad. I needed to determine which ignitor fit my dryer. What I learned is that some of the parts come with a series number and you need to know which one matches your serial number. My serial number started with 40 and I had a choice of buying the part for a series 10 or 60 series. In my case I needed to buy the 10 series since you either go with the same number as your serial number or lower, never higher. When the part came in I removed the dryer door by removing the 2 screws. I then removed the 2 screws on the opposite side of the door. Once the 4 screws were removed I was able to take the front cover off. The ignitor was on the right side and easy to get to. I unplugged the ignitor and used my socket set to remove the bolt. Once removed I vacuumed the lint in the dryer and installed the new ignitor carefully not touching the black area of the part. I put the front cover back on, put the door in place and put all 4 screws back in place. I started the dryer and it was fixed! This was an easy job to repair that saved me money.