MDG16CSDWQ Maytag Dryer - Instructions

popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale

The YouTube video on how to replace the baffels was excellent. After watching the video, it was a piece of cake.

Followed the directions on the video. I recommend changing both tumbler wheels and idler pulley when you have unit apart as well as the drive belt. When I opened the dryer cabinet I immediately saw what my scraping noise was being caused by. A screw holding a baffle in the dryer tub had backed out and was scraping the cabinet wall on each rotated pass. Like I said, when you have the cabinet apart you might as well change parts that are going to fail. The repair was very easy and now I have many more years of service with my dryer. Had I opened the dryer before to see what parts I needed I would have seen the loose screw.

The dryer model was on a sticker inside the door which had long ago rubbed off. The most difficult part was figuring our how to dismantle the dryer. I finally looked up the matching washer by model number watched a youtube video and the dismantle was the same....take off the door, remove front cover then remove screws that held the hook brackets that held the top down. After we figured that out the rest was pretty easy. The main issue was the Idler Pulley Wheel and Bearing. We decided to replace the rest of the parts because we already had the thing all apart. It is amazing all the lint that gets into the dryer cabinet and passed the lint filter. Dryer works like new again. I love this set and will keep repairing as long as we can get parts.

My gas dryer would run with heat for 5 minutes in all settings, but kick off and not heat again. Timer would not advance in autodry. Thought it was the cycling thermostat, so replaced that, but did not solve the issue. Ordered the coils, and cleaned out heavily clogged lint from bottom of lint trap, especially right above the fan motor at the bottom of the trap. Received the coils, opened the top and front, took out drum, and replaced the coils. The replacement took less than 2 minutes. Be careful putting the drum back on to make sure the felt is not caught inside the drum. You can give it a spin to make sure. Wear gloves, as I cut myself up pretty good on the edges of the dryer body. The inside of my dryer looks like a crime scene! Anyway, I put it back together, and it runs great. Solved the timer advance issue in autodry, and the heat kicks on and off when it is supposed to. Good luck! Thanks Part Select!

This is the dryer of a 28 year old Maytag laundry pair. I had replaced the glide kit 8-10 years before. Did them again because they were worn in half again but this time I added the 2 roller kits and the belt, really just guessing. I was surprised how full of dust and lint the inside was, especially the blower fan blades. I ordered the screw because the belt idler pulley assembly was very wobbly and I hoped that was the screw anchoring it to the motor housing was the problem but it wasn't. Turns out the threaded hole in the housing was stripped, due I guess to years of vibration. It was too tight to get a tap and dye in there so I drilled the hole out and replaced the screw with a bolt and nut and lock washer. Before drilling it out I tried a few strands of wire and JB Weld, like the trick with stripped wood holes where you break off toothpicks in the hole and fill with wood glue. But that stripped out too so I drilled and used the bolt. Turned out I didn't need that $7 screw. Probably should have known comparing it to the old one which looked the same after I cleaned it. Anyway, it sounds fine again.

Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.

took 2 screws out and replace new coils

Watched youtube video to problem shoot. Cause determined to be coils bad. Searched web found Parts Select to be easiest site to deal with and had coils for best price. Followed instructions supplied with parts. Dryer works like new.

first i removed the screws holding back cover. Then I remeved nut from tumbler roller shaft. Then I slid shaft from roller .I removed roller then replaced with new one. Installed new shaft then replaced back cover. recieved parts from parts direct very promptly & they were the right parts the first time thanks very much

Following the instructions I pulled off the door and front panel. After rotating drum so the broken baffle was at the bottom I used a socket to remove the two screws on either end. I removed the broken baffle and inserted the new baffle in its place. Reinserted the screws, front panel, and door. I do strongly suggest having the manual handy to view the steps. It's available in PDF format.

All you need for a Maytag is a snub nose Philips screw driver. The screws on the front panel are at the bottom angled down, so a regular length Phillip's won't work. Just unscrew the 2 screws, then lift the panel up and out. Careful not to pull out too far, there are 2 wires attached to the switch. The replacement switch is NOT an exact copy of the old one. My Maytag is over 30 years old and it only had 2 prongs on the switch. The new one has 3. Don't let that throw you. It is the same size. Just attach, 1 wire to the bronze connector & the other to the silver. Push the switch into the door opening, re-attach the door. Total time 20 minutes. Saved well over $100 in a service call. Anyone with an IQ above freezing can do it.

I ordered the top 5 items that may cause this problem based on the troubleshooting guide presented by the technicians I found in youtube. I replaced the coils and that fixed the problem. The coils are the first to go out according to techs, but I have the other parts just in case I may need them later on. My Maytag dryer which is over 19 years old is alive and working again. The coils are accessible from the bottom access panel secured by 2 nut screws, unplug the dryer first, then the coils are secured by a bracket with 2 small philips head screw, I used a stubby philips screw driver to remove the bracket, undo the 2 electrical connectors on the coils one with 2 prongs and the other with 3 prongs. Put the new coils attached the electrical connectors and secured them with the bracket. Checked for any loose wiring ensuring connectors are secured in place, then test run the dryer with the panel off so you can see the if the flame stays on, if you run the dryer without wet clothes the flame may stop after 15 or so minutes. It is better to test run the dryer with wet clothes just like when your drying fresh washed and wringed clothes. It was really easy, good luck!

Went smoothly. Took the opportunity to vacuum out entire cabinet. Also removed tumbler vanes inside dryer as coins had made their way into them. The only other suggestion I have is that I didn't notice cabinet screws were different lengths till I started reassembly. Might be smart to label and separate them

At first I thought I could just replace the pulley, but on closer inspection I found that the pulley had become seized on the shaft. I ended up removing the entire bracket (which I should have purchased also) and cutting the shaft off. I manufactured a new shaft from a bolt of the appropriate size and tack welded it to the bracket. It took a little more time than I anticipated. My advice to anyone doing this would be to spend a little extra money and buy the entire bracket and pulley. That would make this about a 15 minute job.