MDG2706AGW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

removed the dryer female part that was broken with needle nose pliers and inserted the new one, on the door i removed one phillips screw and r/r the male piece with the new one and re-inserted the screw. that was all, very easy repair

Because the wheel had stopped and the shaft kept turning (junk from child's pocket got in there), the nut stripped itself away from the wheel causing low RPM and low air movement (lazy flame, vibration and clothes not drying)

I had to use a screwdriver to break the wheel away from the center nut and remove the fan. I then removed the air fan housing (3 bolt behind the fan wheel). I used a small pair of vise grips to hold the motor shaft staionary while I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the nut that was molded into the fan from the motor shaft. It was harder to get the nut started then I would have thought.

Once complete, I put the fan housing back on and threaded the new wheel on easily. The motor has external fins on it which turn with the shaft-I held one lightly while I threaded the fan on to keep the shaft from turning. Tighten just slightly more than hand tight-don't go crazy-it's threaded to stay tight with rotation. Works great and very quiet now.

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

Squeling from inside dryer. To Fix-
Pry dryer top cover off by popping cover off the two fastening clips located at about 3" inward from the two front corners. A screw driver at these two locations is easily inserted between the top cover and front panel.
Next remove the two screws on the top inside of the driver approximate size 5/16 inch. Pull the top of the front panel outward and then note how the lower portion clips into the fram, lift the front panel off the clips and roll it to the right. Remove the 4 screws and bulkhead.
Draw a picture of how the belt wraps around the drum and idler. Also note the belt orienation on the drum. Roll the belt off the idler pully and reomve the drum.
Replaced Idler asembly by first removing the tension spring and lastly the retaining bolt.
Reinstall everything in reverse order. Can be a bit tough getting the belt around the idler and motor pulley however this is managable. My machine runs great now!
Once again Parts Select comes through with great delivery, perfect fit, good pricing, accurate parts list. This is my third purchase and I have been 100% pleased. By far the best on line service I have ever experienced.

The most difficult part of this repair was to diagnose it correctly. The dryer will run but will heat up for five minutes and then shut off and continue just on air drying. It will reset itself if you shut it down and restarted it again, to do just the same for another five minutes. All troubleshooting guides will tell you to replace limits, thermostat, flame sensor but nothing will tell you that the gas valve is shutting down.I found the problem after I bypass all limits to make sure that they were not dropping out and by process of elimination I came up with the gas valve.
The process to replace gas valve is as follows:
(A) Shut off incoming gas to dryer.
(B) Remove flexible connector from dryer located in the back of it.
(C) Remove all gas fittings attached to the pipe kit after removal of flex connector.
(D)Now place yourself in front of the drier and snap just the front of the top cover upwards without removing it.
(E) Place something in between the cover and the dryer drum just to keep the cover open.
(F)Disconnect the three wires of the door switch.
(G)Remove two 5/16" self tapping screws located in the top front (left and right) of the inside of the dryer.
(H) Pick up the front cover of the dryer and remove.
(I)With a phillips screw driver remove the three screws on the inside of the dryer that holds you air shoot and filter screen assembly.
(J)After the filter assembly is removed, clean all lint from blower wheel(now visible) and also from the filter assembly.
(K) Unplug all connectors to gas valve and also to the hot surface ignitor.
(L) Remove the flame sensor assembly with a 1/4" socket.
(M)With a 5/16" socket remove the burner assembly with extreme care not to damage the hot surface ignitor.
(N) Remove all three 5/16" screws that hold the gas valve and pipe kit.
(O) Remove complete gas valve and pipe assembly.
To install new gas valve assembly follow these instructions in reverse.
If you follow methodically all these instructions, you will have a successfull repair and remember at the end of this project your better half is going to know that you are a heroe.

Remove front pannel
remove wires to light and switch
remove drum panel
disconnect motor wiring
unscrew motor mount
replace idlerlever replace belt reassemble all parts

Removed top of dryer and front panel. Keeping the front door closed I was able to start the unit and observe if the gas was igniting to heat the unit.
Found that no flame was present.
Examined the ignitor (found the locatino after utilizine this website parts diagram) and noticed it was cracked.
Ordered the new part and it arrived two days later. Simple installation and ta daaa....ignitor works, hot dryer again.
*Only reason it took over half an hour was because I cleaned out all the internal vents while the unit was opened.
Basic mechanical abilities required here but remember to unplug the unit while working on it!

1. Disconnect power and hose. Use a putty knife to release top of dryer. Two restraints couple inches in from each side on front. Raise top and do not remove. Block it up in vertical so it doesn't fly down to back.
2. Disconnect five wires at front. Use magic marker to mark re-installation instructions on underside of top.
2. Remove metal screws (2) that hold front to frame. Remove front.
3. Pull dryer forward and put cardboard box, or some such thing under back to support when laying dryer down.
4. Remove frame (4 screws) that supports filter assy and front of drum.
5. Remove belt. Mark assy. sequence on underside of top.
6. Remove drum.
7. Stand dryer back to upright position.
8. Disconnect spring from idler lever. Drop light may help here. Note position of lever for re-install of new.
9. Unscrew bolt that holds idler lever. Nut is on back of bracket. Must re-install this way as bolt has pivot surface for lever on front side.
10. Install new lever and reconnect spring.
11. Lay dryer back on box.
12. Put drum back in place. Insure it seats well all around the felt gasket. Any misalignment here and it will not rotate smoothly.
13. Put belt around drum using small pieces of tape to hold it into position around drum, and them depress the idler lever and install belt around motor pulley. Rotate drum to insure it rotates smoothly. Remove tape.
14. Re-install filter bracket and insure drum seats nicely in felt gasket. Again, rotate to insure smooth operation.
15. Pull dryer back to standing position and reinstall the front, and re-connect the wires.
16. Lower top and push down to reconnect locking devices.
17. Plug in dryer and turn on to see if all is well.
18. Re-install hose and start drying all those clothes.

I watched your videos - they're great! The strike was installed in less than a minute and voila - the dryer was as good as new!

Ordered new lint filter, which did not quite fit. Called company and was told that filter had been redesigned to remove the felt surround, and that sometimes the new filters did not seat well. It turned out that the exhaust pipe was filled with packed-down lint causing the new filter not to go all the way into the slot. My husband surmised that that was why the first filter broke because volunteers at the Humane Society adoption center were trying to shove the filter into a groove that no longer worked. He took off the top, the front, and one other piece before removing all of the lint he could reach. Once that was done, the filter fit fine.

Open bottom panel and observed back left drum roller wheel wobbling and obviously making the loud rumbling banging sound. Search goggle for Amana model part -- found partsellect.com, and read the list of other DIYs:

Take off the lower and upper front panels (two screws
each);

Remove the front drum glide holder (four screws. Careful
here because of the two wires to be removed for
door open off switch;

Pulling drum forward only enough so the bad roller wheel
would come off shaft after removing shaft snap ring
keeper;

Grease new roller hole and old shaft then place the
new wheel roller on shaft;

Replace all items back after cleaning lent off.

Note: Snap ring was a bit tricky (need snap ring pliers)--make sure it is clipped back all the way on the shaft after new wheel is installed. Also, I thought it was a good idea to put something underneath the dryer drum to support it while it was slightly pulled out -- a block of wood, etc. I found a spot remover plastic bottle that wedged up to support the dryer drum enough to take pressure off the belt during wheel replacement.

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!