MDE10PDEGL Maytag Dryer - Instructions

removed the front panel, pulled out the drum, applied the new belt, reassembled, put in screws and voila.....the dryer worked.

took the front cover off the dryer to get front access to the tumbler and the rear access panel to get access to actually aligning the belt on the tumbler. all in all it was fairly simple to change and the part came in within 2 days of ordering. very pleased with the delivery time!!! thanks, jason hines

Purchased a replacement filter and installed it.

Given the age of my dryer, the repair wasn't exactly as proposed on the belt's packaging, but it provided a great drawing of how the belt should contact the motor drive, pulley wheel and drum at the same time. First, I took off the front cover of the dryer with a nut driver. I discovered that I had to put the belt around the drum first and then use my arms to hold the drum up as my hands simultaneously pulled the motor pulley tight and threaded the belt around the motor drive and pulley wheel. After not quite slipping the belt on correctly the first time, I was able to very easily do it on a second try. Had I gotten the belt on correctly the first time, repair would have taken ten minutes. Runs great!!

opened the front with 2 screws, removed 4 screws to access blower, removed spring clamp and split ring, pulled off old part and replaced with new and put back together.

four screws removed the front and angled bottom panels exposing the blower wheel and duct work. It was just another few screws to remove the control panel and main duct, exposing the blower housing. 4 more screws and a snap ring came off, then I removed the old blower wheel and replace it with the new one, fitted the seal, reassembled everything in the reverse order of dissassembly, and voila! A quite efficient clothes dryer again. Better than new.

Parts Select accepted my order on a Friday and I received my parts from a Pennsylvania distribution center on Saturday. Total out of pocket expense about $30 - significantly cheaper and quicker than had I called in a service person to perform the repair. Parts diagram and information provided online by Parts Select made it easy to identify the required parts and how things went together, making this repair almost as easy as looking in the phone book for a repair guy.

I removed the screws to the front panel which allowed access to the inside. There were four screws that held the drum in place. I removed the drum to have more working room. Once inside, I removed the screws, clamp and clips that held the blower wheel assembly in place. After removal, I replaced the old blower with the new one and installed the new belt. I reassembled everything and the dryer runs like a new one. Very easy job that saved me lots of money. Also, the diagrams on your site were very helpful.

The blower had lost its key and was not attached to the motor. To do the repair: Remove the front cover, remove the lint screen assembly, remove the front of the blower housing. Use snap ring pliers to remove the blower wheel and install the new one. Reassemble and your done.

I removed the two screws holding the front cover and set the cover aside, then the two screws at the top of the dryer and unplugged and tagged wires going to the front panel and door assembly and set the front door and panel aside. Next I removed the 4 screws inside the tub attaching the lint filter and exhaust duct, and then the screws holding the blower cover. Then I removed the snap ring holding the blower to the motor shaft and pulled the blower off, slid the new blower on, and reinstalled the snap ring. While the unit was apart, since the lint filter felt gasket was out, I cleaned the gasket groove and cemented the gasket in place with Gorilla Glue. Finally, I reassembled all parts.

Remove the two screws under the door, lifted front panel outward and pulled it free at the top, removed the lint trap assembly ( 4 screws). I pulled the entire dryer drum out and cleaned out the inside o fhte dryer cabinet. Gettting the belt to track correctly took a little fiddling- I had to take the small panel off the back to access the motor pulley to feel the belt and get it set on the drum in the correct spot.

Overall, installing a new belt was fairly easy.

Removed front cover. 2 screws front bottom. replaced belt using mark on drum to locate belt as close as possible on drum. Replaced idler assy spring from rear acess cover. attached belt to motor pulley. Tested before installing front cover. Piece of cake.

I followed the instructions given by other DIYs. The rubber band for the belt was a great suggestion, however having no rubber band nearby, I used a zip-tie that worked out perfectly.

The only tool that I wished I had is a pair of split ring pliers. Not having a pair, used a pair of needle nose and a very small screw driver to provide the leverage to remove the washer.

After following the instructions that came with the belt on how to properly align it to the motor wheel and tension wheel, I plugged everything back in and started it up. Sounded like it was brand new.

I decided not to replace the rollers or drum guides as they looked to be in good shape.

I removed the two screws located on the front panel close to the bottom. I took the front panel off. Then I removed the four screws holding the framework in place in front of the tumbler. Then I removed two more screws, each located on the upper inside of the front of the top. Then I took the top off and set aside. Next, I took out the tumbler and put some oil on the rear rollers. I installed the belt around the pulley system located at the rear left side of the dryer. Then I stretched the belt around the tumbler, aligning it about 2 inches back from screws located towards the back of the tumbler. Afterward, I put everything back together.

Removed front cover screws at the bottom, using a stubby screwd river and a 2x4 under the front. Killed the circuit breaker at the panel, removed two wires on fron door. Removed 4 5/16 inch hex screws from drum front cover. Removed 6 1/4 inch hex screws from the cover over the fan blades. These are hard to reach in the back and left sides. I had to use my pliers and the nutdriver socket and my fingers to get them out. Using the pliers I removced the retainer clip from the old fan blades and use the tips of my long nosed pliers to remove the C-clip from the end of the motor shaft, ruining my old pair of pliers. ($15 for a new c-clip retainer removal tool.) removed the old fan baldes, pushed the new blades onto the motor shaft,using a bit of force to pop it on. Replaced the C-clip and the new retainer clip. Replaced 5 of the 1/4 inch hex screws. The screw closest to the drum would not line up, being about 1/4 inch off. Didn't seem to make any difference. Made sure the drum was seated on the rear rollers and replaced the drum front cover, making sure the air tube was seated in the front of the fan assembly. Replaced the 4 5/16 inch hex screws, routed the front door wires behind this piece and replaced the wires on the door switch. Pushed the front door up into the upper cover, lowered the bottom into place and repalaced the two front screws. Reomved the 2x4 and reset the circuit breaker at the panel. Tested the dryer, noting that the noise had stopped. Totat time about 40 minutes.

took off front of dryer then front of drum supports then took the blower fan off and replaced it. pulled the drum out replaced the shafts and rollers put it back together was not a very hard job.