MDE10PDEGL Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Problem was the blower wheel, (Plastic deteriorated). Replaced the tumbler and motor belt as well as th idler pulley. While the blower wheel turned out to be the problem, the other parts were significantly deteriorated. Since I had the dryer disassembled it made sense to replace the other parts. The 24 year old dryer runs like new. The parts select instructional videos were extremely helpful.

I bought this machine in 1984. For the belt to last this long, is extraordinary. The belt comes in a plastic bag with instructions. After removing the front cover(2 screws at the bottom, tip bottom out towards you. Cover unhinges from the top. Lean face against a wall. Don't remove any wires). I then vacuumed the inside thoroughly. Used a parts brush to wipe everything off, and blew out with compressed air. Vacuumed again. A bit obsessive, but gas and dust are not a good combination. So why not take the extra time. There is a continuous mark on the circumference of the drum, left by the original belt. Use this as your guide to locate the new belt. Rotate the drum by hand to make sure it tracks correctly. I also ran the motor with everything open, to make sure everything was cool before I buttoned it up. Also took the time to replace the gas line with a new one, and duct-taped the vent pipe to improve air flow.

This dryer has been really reliable. This is the first time I've had to repair it. PartsSelect.com says the noise had a 30% chance the problem would be the tumbler rollers and shaft and 18% it would be the blower impeller fan. I took a chance on the rollers, thinking I would save $20 on the blower fan. Big mistake! Once I dissambled the dryer, I realized almost immediately it was the blower fan and not the rollers. When I manually turned the motor shaft, I discovered the problem. The plastic fan's shaft hole is worn to a larger diameter and is semi-freewheeling on the shaft causing the racket. I replaced the rollers and belt and ordered a new fan. I tried putting electrical tape on the shaft to enlarged the OD like a fellow on this site said, but it worked for about 3 minutes then the racket started again. Also, I had to pull the dryer away from the wall and open the access door to the back of the motor in order to thread the drive belt on the motor and idler pulleys. I couldn't fit my arms along side and under the tumbler. I've got the scratches on my left arm to prove it. Suggestion: Replace the blower fan, rollers and shafts if you have the rumbling noise when operating the dryer. Might as well replace the drive belt while you have it apart, too.

removed the front panel, pulled out the drum, applied the new belt, reassembled, put in screws and voila.....the dryer worked.

took the front cover off the dryer to get front access to the tumbler and the rear access panel to get access to actually aligning the belt on the tumbler. all in all it was fairly simple to change and the part came in within 2 days of ordering. very pleased with the delivery time!!! thanks, jason hines

Purchased a replacement filter and installed it.

I removed two screws holding the front panel. Then, the front dryer bearing was removed by taking out four screws. With the blower wheel exposed, I removed the snap ring and wheel clamp and removed the wheel. The new wheel was an exact replacement and was easily installed.

The blower had lost its key and was not attached to the motor. To do the repair: Remove the front cover, remove the lint screen assembly, remove the front of the blower housing. Use snap ring pliers to remove the blower wheel and install the new one. Reassemble and your done.

four screws removed the front and angled bottom panels exposing the blower wheel and duct work. It was just another few screws to remove the control panel and main duct, exposing the blower housing. 4 more screws and a snap ring came off, then I removed the old blower wheel and replace it with the new one, fitted the seal, reassembled everything in the reverse order of dissassembly, and voila! A quite efficient clothes dryer again. Better than new.

Parts Select accepted my order on a Friday and I received my parts from a Pennsylvania distribution center on Saturday. Total out of pocket expense about $30 - significantly cheaper and quicker than had I called in a service person to perform the repair. Parts diagram and information provided online by Parts Select made it easy to identify the required parts and how things went together, making this repair almost as easy as looking in the phone book for a repair guy.

I removed the screws to the front panel which allowed access to the inside. There were four screws that held the drum in place. I removed the drum to have more working room. Once inside, I removed the screws, clamp and clips that held the blower wheel assembly in place. After removal, I replaced the old blower with the new one and installed the new belt. I reassembled everything and the dryer runs like a new one. Very easy job that saved me lots of money. Also, the diagrams on your site were very helpful.

Given the age of my dryer, the repair wasn't exactly as proposed on the belt's packaging, but it provided a great drawing of how the belt should contact the motor drive, pulley wheel and drum at the same time. First, I took off the front cover of the dryer with a nut driver. I discovered that I had to put the belt around the drum first and then use my arms to hold the drum up as my hands simultaneously pulled the motor pulley tight and threaded the belt around the motor drive and pulley wheel. After not quite slipping the belt on correctly the first time, I was able to very easily do it on a second try. Had I gotten the belt on correctly the first time, repair would have taken ten minutes. Runs great!!

Removed front cover. 2 screws front bottom. replaced belt using mark on drum to locate belt as close as possible on drum. Replaced idler assy spring from rear acess cover. attached belt to motor pulley. Tested before installing front cover. Piece of cake.

Remove the two screws under the door, lifted front panel outward and pulled it free at the top, removed the lint trap assembly ( 4 screws). I pulled the entire dryer drum out and cleaned out the inside o fhte dryer cabinet. Gettting the belt to track correctly took a little fiddling- I had to take the small panel off the back to access the motor pulley to feel the belt and get it set on the drum in the correct spot.

Overall, installing a new belt was fairly easy.

I removed the two screws holding the front cover and set the cover aside, then the two screws at the top of the dryer and unplugged and tagged wires going to the front panel and door assembly and set the front door and panel aside. Next I removed the 4 screws inside the tub attaching the lint filter and exhaust duct, and then the screws holding the blower cover. Then I removed the snap ring holding the blower to the motor shaft and pulled the blower off, slid the new blower on, and reinstalled the snap ring. While the unit was apart, since the lint filter felt gasket was out, I cleaned the gasket groove and cemented the gasket in place with Gorilla Glue. Finally, I reassembled all parts.

I followed the instructions given by other DIYs. The rubber band for the belt was a great suggestion, however having no rubber band nearby, I used a zip-tie that worked out perfectly.

The only tool that I wished I had is a pair of split ring pliers. Not having a pair, used a pair of needle nose and a very small screw driver to provide the leverage to remove the washer.

After following the instructions that came with the belt on how to properly align it to the motor wheel and tension wheel, I plugged everything back in and started it up. Sounded like it was brand new.

I decided not to replace the rollers or drum guides as they looked to be in good shape.