MDG16PDAXW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Others have described how to remove 4 screws and remove the front panel of the dryer. The problem I saw is that some screws broke off and fell inside while others remained on the separated baffle. The old screws that I found were 1 1/4 inch. The parts manual indicates a replacement screw that is 1 inch long and a number 10 width. One set of holes for the baffles has slotted holes. It appears that wear in the paint indicates movement before breaking off. My solution to the slotted holes was to use washers on the screws and to tighten the screws in the position where any force was not going to move the screws to the center position of the slots. The force of the separation caused the slotted holes to expand.

First removed front door 2 screws holding it to frame, then removed 2 screws holding front cover panel on tilt out front panel, used vac to clean inside, removed idler arm with pully attached, replaced with new parts when I did a test run still had a llitle squeek, the drum support wheel on right looking from front making some squeeking,I went back in removed part shaft had small rust spot cleaned with jewelers cloth lubed and wiped off, no more squeek I wish I had ordered new drum wheel when I ordered idler parts, then I could have done a complete overhaul now I know more I have never worked on a dryer before the drawings on the web site heleped a lot

removed front door, removed front panels, lifted top back, unhooked belt, removed drum and belt, removed blower housing front, removed squirrel cage, removed blower housing, unplugged motor, removed motor assembly , ..switched new motor to motor cradle ... reversed process.

I had to remove the door first. Then the retaining brackets that hold the upper lid on. This also allowed removal of the front cover. After releasing the tension of the drum belt, I removed the drum and replaced the drum roller in suspect. Installation was reverse in order. Don't know why I waited so long to do such a simple job.

With the parts in hand, and after disconneting power and shutting off gas line, I again removed the door, front panel and front tumbler frame to expose the blower wheel. I discovered that the blower wheel was not damaged, but that compressed pieces of lint and other items where stuck to the wheel. I removed the pieces and vacuumed the the whole thing clean, tested it, and the sound stopped. Since I had the unit open, I replaced the front glides by drilling out the old rivets, removing the old glides and then riveting the new glides in place. A very simple procedure overall.

Make sure you keep track of where the different screws go and keep them inside something so you don't lose them. I also used my cell phone to photograph various areas and screws for later reference.

My Husband did the repair. He had to take the entire dryer apart to get to the motor. Removed door, front pannel, drum. During this repair he also replaced the belt since it had cracks and since the dryer was taken apart. placed new motor in and put all back to gether many screws he had to remember where they all went. Have to be very careful with the felt liner around drum. we started dryer has never ran more smoothly. Two people recommended to put dryer back together.

If you have the option to take a part the dryer before ordering the parts to track down the squeaking part, do so. In my case a squeaking part is still usable. Unfortunately the squeaking part was not the rollers or the belt depicted as a high percentage of the squeaking problems as noted on the webpage.My was the Idler Pulley. INSTALLATION of idler pulley, I started by watching the youtube videos, took pictures during the removal of the parts to assist in the installation. removed front panels parts, moved drum forward off the rollers, reached in and pulled the idler pulley to the left in order to remove belt. pulled the drum out. And with a flat head screw driver popped off the e clip (bought extra e clip just in case i lost it) reinstalled everything, BUT take note of the Idler pulley, it has one side bigger than the other BUT in the CLOSE UP VIDEO THE GENTLEMAN INSTALLS IT BACKWARDS. Not sure if this has a major effect on the pulley, but wanted to give it a heads up (your pictures will help you with this to keep track of how it should look at the end).

i took off the door and the front of the drum and removed the drum. I removed the locking clip from idler pully and replaced and lubricated the shaft and slid the new idler pully on. I hung the belt over the back and put the drum back in and aligned the belt and turned by hand to get the belt in the correct position. Belt came off a couple of times because i think the belt was twisted. installed the front panel and the door, plugged the cord in and started it up and it was perfect.

followed instructions on youtube. The only hitch was threading drive belt back on. the video showed from back instead of front.After I was done I noticed an access door in back that would have helped.

Went on line and got a diagram of the dryer. Removed four screws around the door. Removed the door and then the front cover. The toughest part was removing the drum. Once I got that out of the way replacing the rollers was easy. Re installed the drum. The belt was a little tricky but worked. Then replaced the front of the dryer and the door. The dryer works fine now and no more noise. Pretty easy.

Found out you shouldn't try to dry heavy hiking shoes in a dryer....it tends to break off plastic baffle.

The repair directions on PartSelct.com made this repair a piece of cake.
Just removed screws holding door and front of dryer.
With these removed it was a simple matter to detach top and get access to internal components.
Two hex screws held baffle in place.
Total repair took about 15 minutes, but while I was in there I cleaned out all the dust from inside of the dryer and heater unit.
I also reversed door to make it easier to transfer clothes from washer.
The instructions, detailed drawings and the quality of the part were all excellent.
They had replacement to me in 1 day.
Will definitely use PartSelect again.

repair was pretty easy, actually took more time removing the door and the front housing that actually changing out the rollers

Received parts within two days of order. thank you

It was easier than I thought. Unplugger the dryer, took the door off, front panel and inside front panel. I wiggled the drum out and vacuumed up all the lint. All I really needed to replace was the belt and idler wheel but replaced the 2 support rollers since I had gotten new ones. The belt had a twist in it and was rubbing and causing the idler to rub against its bracket, thus wearing them both out prematurely. I slapped it all back together and it never ran better.
Thanks for the inexpensive parts and quick delivery. You guys are great!

I removed and replaced all the problem pieces, and now she runs better then when I got her!

Firts I had to take all the front parts off using a screwdriver and nutdriver then I loossen the belt to get the drum out then I had to use snapping ring pliers to remove the rollers and put the new ones in I cleaned the inside of the dryer then I put everything back in place. After all that I tested it and it worked really good it took me about an hour to do all that