SG1000T Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Fairly easy, with lots of disassembly easy replacement, and lots of reassembly.

Read the instructions included with the parts, removed the 2 screws on the front of the dryer. Removed a couple of wire connections and 4 screws that held the drum in place. Moved the drum enough to have access to the roller supports. I removed the nut from the back of the supports with a 1/2" wrench. Placed the new supports on the old support pins and reinstalled them. Put it all back together. Probably the most difficult task was getting the drive belt back on the drum correctly. I was done in just over 1 hour.

Removed the front panel and top of dryer. Removed the drum front support and drum from dryer then removed the rear drum support.
Remove the old felt seal both front and back. Vacuumed and cleaned the interior of the dryer blowing out the heat coils and controls on the front panel. Removed and replaced the front guides and installed new rollers. Removing the old glue holding the felt required a heat gun and scraper. New felt was installed with the proper glue and clamped in place for 12 hours. Assemble the the dryer in reverse order.

repairmen said to buy a new dryer! or replace the motor! DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!

It was the spring washer that was rubbing against the metal that was causing the very loud noise. The fiber washer that is used on the shaft on both sides of the roller had worn though and allowed the metal-metal contact. The fiber washer wore out! The fiber washers are very cheap!!!! in comparison to a motor or new dryer!


The drum rollers that support the rotating drum eventually wear out the fiber washer.
UNPLUG THE DRYER, DISCONNECT THE VENT
Remove the two screws on the lower front of the dryer panel, probably after you have tilted the unit backward. Remove the front panel by tilting out the bottom as there are two clips at the top. AFTER DOCUMENTING the CONNECTIONS - Disconnect the wires from the switch which is mounted on the front panel.
Carefully put the dryer on its back - be careful of the dryer vent to avoid damaging your floor or dryer vent!
Carefully pull the dryer drum up out of the dryer - as this is done the belt which moves the drum will fall away from the drum. I suggest before you remove the drum to eyeball the way the belt is tensioned and wrapped around the motor driveshaft, guard and tensioner. This will be the most difficult part of reassembling the machine. Some visual understand, maybe even pictures will help you later to get it installed correctly back into proper position... and it is NOT intuitive!
Once the drum is removed, the rollers are accessible. Rotate each and find the squeaker!
I recommend you replace the fiber washer on both, even though only one may be squeaking at this point (the other will be close to being worn out as well!).
I will not document the replacement of these parts as the assembly seems well documented elsewhere. I suggest you remain using the spring washer if there - as the after factory replacements do not seem to provide spring washers.
I would also suggest replacing the dryer drum belt, it is worn, after this many years, and putting in a new one will keep the dryer running for many more years. KNOWLEDGE IS POWER - USE IT

I simply removed the retaining clip and old bearing and re-installed the new drum roller, washers and retaining clip. Fairly simple really.

Just took it apart and put new one in.

I had to remove the door, raise top and remove the front panel. After removing the drum and belt it was easy to replace the tension idler and put it all back together.

The repair was easy. New felt fit after the tabs were bent out some. Then just tape tabs back into place. Drum turns fine now, but ran it too long with tight drum. Motor is toast.

Our dryer started making noise and we ignored it until it became a grinding sound, that's when I knew I had to fix it.

The grinding was the front assembly being worn through by the fact that the glides were gone (worn away) and we continued to use the dryer. I, subsequently, had to replace the front assembly (after trying duct tape and metal epoxy, which didn't work). As there were no glides on the replacement front assembly I didn't know to replace them. They had worn away completely and I didn't realize I needed them.

Well, the grinding started again (right away, acually)and I tore it apart again and that's when I realized that I needed the glides (one on each bottom side) so I got those and put them on. They are called "bearing kits" actually.

They come as a cork piece that goes underneath the "vinyl" piece with the tabs going into the slots and the vinyl piece being riveted into the assembly from the underside of the assembly. I think that, so, that when the drum starts rubbing on something it will hit the rivets instead of the assembly and only damage the rivets. That way you know you need them when you hear a grinding sound and I theorize that will get your attention enough to make you want to replce them. The rivets being put in top down looks right though so "whatever" I suppose.

I also had to take them to work to ask an engineer if the cork gets glued to the vinyl as I saw on one post and he agreed as the cork is porous and would be capable of being greased and retaining the grease, He was wrong of course as so many engineers are today. I think that it is rather obvious that you just slip the tabs into the slots as you're common sense brain tells you to do.

The wife's happy and
I'm superman once again.

Took the dryer front panel off, loosened the drum, but not all the way out. Removed and checked the old rollers and shafts. Then put all the new shafts and rollers in. Put the drum back in place and front panel. Now it drys without a sound and this is a 25+ year old dryer.

A noise in the dryer cabinet started as a chirp, then slowly progressed into a constant squealing noise. After reading reviews on this site, I decided to go ahead and order the roller shafts and drum roller support kits for both sides. The cabinet was relatively simple to disassemble. I removed the door and the front panel, then lifted the top panel to expose the drum. After releasing the tension on the idler pulley I removed the belt and the drum from the cabinet. Once inside, I examined all moving parts and determined that, although the support rollers were worn, they were not the source of the noise, it was the idler roller itself. I order the additional parts that day, and had them the next afternoon. Once back inside the dryer cabinet, the removal and replacement of the idler pulley and assocaited bracket/shaft took less than five minutes. I went ahead and replaced the support rollers as well since I already had them delivered, and that took a total of about 15 minutes. The support rollers are held on the shatfs by c-clips, and having the special pliers built for removing those clips was a big help and time saver. All total this job can be competed by someone with moderate mechanical knowledge and basic tools. It did take some time and patience to get the drum and belt re-installed and routed around the correct route, including the motor polley and new idler pulley. Total time was over one hour, due more so to the time spent cleaing the lint out of the cabinet than actual part replacement.

Replaced the roller and shaft. The bearing on the roller had worn out and then worn down the shaft. We let this go on for over a year. The shaft was worn half away. Found the service manual for my dryer online and used it as a guide to taking it apart. First door, then a couple of screws. Removed belt, then drum. Replaced rollers and shaft. The damaged parts were obvious. The rollers and shafts require the socket and snap ring pliers. There was a layer of rust dust all over the inside of the dryer. Vacuumed out all of the lint and rust. Put everything back together. Works great now, no squeaking.

i took front cover off,then removed front drum support. pulled out dryer basket and replaced wheels and shafts. problem solved!!!

I removed the front panel of the dryer and the assembly that holds the tumbler in place to see what was causing the grinding noise. After seeing some worn parts I went on partselect.com and entered the model number of my dryer. I was provided with diagrams that told me which parts needed to be replaced. I watched the repair video for the Front Glide Kit which was VERY helpful. I ordered 2 front glide kits and a drum felt seal on a Sunday afternoon and paid for overnight shipping. I verfied that my parts shipping first thing on Monday and had them by Tuesday morning. I completed the repairs when I got home from work on Tuesday. There was no repair video for the drum seal but the repair descriptions from the other customers were helpful enough to guide be through. The hardest part of the repair was putting the assembly that holds the tumbler back in place. It took me about 15-20 minutes to get it in place and get the felt seal tucked outside of the tumbler. Once I got it all back together (nice to have to video to make sure I got everything back correctly) I plugged it in and turned it on...ah, a nice quiet dryer again! Thanks PartSelect! It's nice to save money AND repair things myself easily and correctly.

Followed the instructions per the video on this site. Only part that was a different was removing the front panel. Need to be sure to remove the backet that hold the top on as well.