KEYS850GQ0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Chris from Valley Stream, NY
- Parts Used:
- W11226088
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Lens melted because paper got behind the lens and was heated by the lamp.
1 screw to replace.
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- Customer:
- Frank from Smyrna, TN
- Parts Used:
- 279827
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Start windings burnt out on original motor (dryer would not start)
The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to unthread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.
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- Customer:
- J from Trabuco Canyon, CA
- Parts Used:
- 279366
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Auto Dry Sensor Failed
Really simple, the dryer repair guy I had out did not have the part and wanted $100 to fix. Did it myself quickly and easily and the dryer is working like a charm.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Austin, TX
- Parts Used:
- 279457
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer stopped heating
(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.
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- Customer:
- William from Stuarts Drafts, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP3406107
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
broken door switch
Be very careful of burrs on the edges of the steel inside the dryer. I cut myself badly when reaching into unplug the switch.
Procedure: Lifted the dryer top by pulling forward and rotating front up. Removed 2 philips screws holding the switch at the door. Reached into dryer and unplugged bad switch. Inserting small blade screw driver at the edge helped release the plugs detent. Installed new switch using reverse of above.
Procedure: Lifted the dryer top by pulling forward and rotating front up. Removed 2 philips screws holding the switch at the door. Reached into dryer and unplugged bad switch. Inserting small blade screw driver at the edge helped release the plugs detent. Installed new switch using reverse of above.
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- Customer:
- Michael from CLIFTON HTS, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP694089
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Motor was bad
I have not received the parts yet waiting on the motor, can’t put the blower fan in without the motor, ordered it , Jan 23rd, still no motor, have to go to laundry mat, have you ever had to do that with 7kids, and you and your wife’s laundry, probably not, because you would have had your motor by now. Maybe you can help me with the part so I can redo a testimonial here for you. 19 days and still waiting
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- Customer:
- MONTE from CHESAPEAKE, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP18776
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer Top Panel is Loose
1) Unplug power cable from dryer.
2) Remove the 2 screws that secure the chute for lint filter screen with
Phillips head screwdriver.
3) Remove the lint filter screen.
4) Depress plastic locking clip on each side with putty knife to release
tension and lift up top panel to clear the locking clips. Each locking
clip is located 2-1/2 inches from the front edge of side panel.
5) Lift the top panel and lean against the wall for support. If dryer top
panel cannot be raised all the way due to cabinet(s) above, tape
the dryer top panel to cabinet above or have somebody hold the
top panel for temporary support.
6) Install the new metal locking clips. Ensure that the elongated tab
of the metal locking clip is towards the front of dryer. Compress
locking clip lightly with pliers and push down into the hole.
7) Lower the dryer top panel and press it down in place over the metal
locking clips for a tight fit.
8) Reinstall the 2 screws to secure the lint filter chute.
9) Reinstall lint filter screen.
10) Reconnect power cable for dryer.
11) Turn on dryer and inspect that all dryer panels (top, sides and
front) are tight and secured.
Repair Duration: 5 minutes
2) Remove the 2 screws that secure the chute for lint filter screen with
Phillips head screwdriver.
3) Remove the lint filter screen.
4) Depress plastic locking clip on each side with putty knife to release
tension and lift up top panel to clear the locking clips. Each locking
clip is located 2-1/2 inches from the front edge of side panel.
5) Lift the top panel and lean against the wall for support. If dryer top
panel cannot be raised all the way due to cabinet(s) above, tape
the dryer top panel to cabinet above or have somebody hold the
top panel for temporary support.
6) Install the new metal locking clips. Ensure that the elongated tab
of the metal locking clip is towards the front of dryer. Compress
locking clip lightly with pliers and push down into the hole.
7) Lower the dryer top panel and press it down in place over the metal
locking clips for a tight fit.
8) Reinstall the 2 screws to secure the lint filter chute.
9) Reinstall lint filter screen.
10) Reconnect power cable for dryer.
11) Turn on dryer and inspect that all dryer panels (top, sides and
front) are tight and secured.
Repair Duration: 5 minutes
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- Customer:
- alice from wickliffe, OH
- Parts Used:
- W10906683
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
seal came of dryer door
romoved from pkg. and fit it to the door. no tools needed. best of all the part came in 24 hrs and was fixed with out delay of waiting from a store that was out of our area. great costumer service!!!!!
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Making loud squealing noises
Removed the Lint filter, then lifted top panel and rested the panel against the wall.
Disconnected connector attached to the door panel.
removed screws, from both side of door panel and lifted door panel up and out.
Moved Idler pulley to the right taking tension off the drum belt, lift the drum out with the drum belt.
removed old drum felt seal and removed old residual glue, reglued and installed new Rear Drum Felt Seal.
Installed new Idler pulley Assembly and reassembled in reverse order.
Disconnected connector attached to the door panel.
removed screws, from both side of door panel and lifted door panel up and out.
Moved Idler pulley to the right taking tension off the drum belt, lift the drum out with the drum belt.
removed old drum felt seal and removed old residual glue, reglued and installed new Rear Drum Felt Seal.
Installed new Idler pulley Assembly and reassembled in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- Lisa from Woodstock, GA
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
drum wouldn't turn
Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!
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- Customer:
- Alfred from Berkeley Heights, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP3976570
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer would not cut off automatically. Timer not functioning
Disconnected dryer from the electric supply.
Removed panel at rear of Control Console and loosened the 2 screws fastening the timer to the console.
Moved the old timer to left and screwed new timer in place.
Because of the number of electrical connections to be re- attached I decided to disconnect the wires from the old timer one at a time,starting from the left side and moving the terminals directly to the corresponding terminals on the new timer.This sequence ensured that I got each wire on the correct terminal and avoided having a lot of loose wires to choose from. The push-on terminals came off easily and pushed onto the new timer easily.
I rescrewed the back-plate to the control console,plugged in the dryer to the mains electrical supply and ran the dryer. It worked beautifully.
Removed panel at rear of Control Console and loosened the 2 screws fastening the timer to the console.
Moved the old timer to left and screwed new timer in place.
Because of the number of electrical connections to be re- attached I decided to disconnect the wires from the old timer one at a time,starting from the left side and moving the terminals directly to the corresponding terminals on the new timer.This sequence ensured that I got each wire on the correct terminal and avoided having a lot of loose wires to choose from. The push-on terminals came off easily and pushed onto the new timer easily.
I rescrewed the back-plate to the control console,plugged in the dryer to the mains electrical supply and ran the dryer. It worked beautifully.
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- Customer:
- Christopher from Orlando, FL
- Parts Used:
- 279816
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer quit heating
I removed the hex head screws from the back of the dryer and removed the back panel, after unplugging the dryer. I tested the various electrical components until I found that the upper limit temp fuse had gone out. Came to partselect.com and found the kit I needed and ordered it. When it came in, I replaced the upper temp limit fuse, and the other parts that came with the kit. I also, since the back was open, used the opportunity to vacuum out the blower fan and as much of the lint as I could get to. Dryer works great now!
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Front seal was ripped.
Step one: UNPLUG THE 220V LINE!
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the front panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the front panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.
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Dryer belt worn out, rear seal worn replaced drum baffle
Unplugged unit and removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum and belt. noting how belt ran through the belt tension-er. Removed old felt seal from rear of drum. Replaced broken baffle, replaced rear seal. reinstalled belt. Put unit back together and test ran.
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Poor drying and took excessive amount of time to complete partially dried loads
Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.
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