11078132410 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed back panel to get to inside. Removed drum etc to replace drum rollers (ordered repair kit also), replaced the idler pulley etc, now like new. Repair successful!!!! Thank you!

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

After removing the back & top of the dryer,I determined the noise was coming the idler pulley.I went online w/ model # & found Partselect.com.I ordered the dryer repair kit (at my door in 3 days) which included all the rollers,idler pulley, belt & hardware.It was an easy job to do even tho instructions were for top control panel model (mine is a whirlpool duet- front control) I did try using silicone lubricant on idler pulley, which worked to quiet dryer for a couple days so my wife could use it while I was waing for parts.Two thumbs up to Partselect.com,I will be purchasing all my appliance repair parts from them..I own all whirlpool stainless steel appliances that have been very reliable,but it's nice to know I have Partselect to fix problems as needed.

Using some advice here on this website, and a youtube video found by searching for 'idler pulley replacement' I was able to fix my dryer! Taking off the screws was simple, I used a cordless drill. I have some trouble removing the kick panel, and bent the latches, so there is a small gap between the dryer door panel and the kick panel, but it still works fine. Of note, you DO NOT need to remove the back panel, something I did and cost me some time. I am a bigger guy, so maneuvering on the floor to rig the dryer belt around the new idler pulley "in the dark" was cumbersome, but doable. All in all, an easy enough project for under $30 and less than an hour of my time. Kudos to this website, first, for the super fast shipping, and secondly, the reviewers who posted some instruction. Great job!

Disconnect the dryer from the power source and vent hose. Using the nut driver, remove all hex screws and the electric access panel from back of dryer. Loosen the electrical service cable clamp screws with philips screw driver and disconnect the ground wire. Remove the top panel from the dryer cabinet and the screws that hold the electrical bus in place, then remove the back panel from the dryer. Feed the electrical cable through the cable clamp and rest the back of the dryer against the side. Remove the tri-ring and old idler pulley, then clean and lubricate (WD40) the axel, and install the new pulley and tri-ring. Replace the back panel and all screws.

I highly recommend the videos on this site for repair information. It wasn't exact for the age/model of my dryer but very close. Remove the top panel and then the control panel. Remove the lower front panel and finally the door and main front panel. Unloop the belt from the motor and remove the drum. I found one of the drum rollers was bad, which was causing my problem, but I replace all 4 rollers, the belt, and the idler wheel. Sounds like it did when it was new! Find the video for your model and watch it!!

First i did some research on the internet approx.1yr ago.Just in case any problems like this or any other kind of problems should arise which it did.The whole thing is Easy all you have to have is some basic knoledge of how things work.All of this came "OFF" in (4) sections.After installing everything back it was as "Quiet"as the day we purchased it.Good for another 5yrs.Retired welder & "J.O.A.T.Julian San Antonio,Texas

The videos really make it easy. I put my laptop on the washer next to my dryer and proceeded step by step. I also found the video that mentioned about the screws that may come loose on the baffles. I found several loose screws on the baffles which I tightened and I also found the Drum hole plug loose, so I also tightened the plug. Reassembled the unit and has been working like new since.

UNPLUG UNIT FIRST!!! Removed back cover. Make sure to note not all screws hold the back cover by closely observing the screw. Take a picture of the belt routing before removing from the idler pulley. Use headlamp or flashlight to light up pulley area. Remove belt from idler pulley by pushing idler assembly towards the right. Use small screwdriver to remove the existing pulley by prying off the existing tri-ring from the back of the pulley. You may have to "feel" the ring since it in facing away from you. Once tri-ring is removed, slide off old pulley and gasket or old second tri-ring. Replace with gasket first, then pulley then tri-ring. Reroute belt. Use picture if needed. Replace back cover.

My way of replacing the pulley was much faster than the parts select video that showed how to replace the belt tension-er pulley. They took off the door, the entire front AND the drum to get to the pulley. I ACCESSED THE PULLEY BY REMOVING THE 4 INCH EXHAUST PIPE, (ONE SCREW) WHICH GAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH OPENING TO REPLACE THE NEARBY PULLEY! I suggest you remake that video

Our dryer got so loud after running for a few minutes that you couldn't even have a conversation in the same room. After researching for possible causes, I decided to go with new drum wheels. I purchased the Dryer Repair Kit to save a little money and it gave me a new belt and tension wheel as well (since I was going to have it apart anyways). After taking everything apart and vacuuming out all the lint from inside, I noticed that the blower wheel was broken. No idea how that happens but something must have gotten in there and broke 2-3 fins and cracked the rear side. I replaced the parts that came with the kit and proceeded to put it all back together. Started it up and it was worse than before. Quickly ordered the new blower wheel and that fixed the problem. Back to a "quiet" dryer. I probably didn't need the Kit after all, but the drum wheels were a little worn and I had it apart anyway.

Repair was fairly easy, lots of screws to remove but the instructions in the online repair manual were very clear. Lots of stuff to remove (top, front, drum, etc.) but not too challenging. Only tough thing was disconnecting one of the connectors on the electronics board, had to use a pair of pliers to squeeze the part to get them separated. Once I had it all apart it was very easy to replace the wheels and the belt. Putting it back together was easier than taking it apart.

1. Disconnect power cord and remove flexible duct. 2. Tilt dryer back and lean against wall, using folded towel to prevent wall damage. 3. Remove front/bottom panel - 4 screws on front/bottom of dryer. 4. Make alignment marks on internal vent duct where it attaches to vent bottom duct housing. Remove internal vent duct screw (towards front/top of duct) and slide vent duct out back of dryer (duct has to be removed to remove back panel) 5. Remove top panel (4 screws on back/top). 6. Remove AC power terminal block from back panel, disconnecting wire that restricts free movement of terminal block. Remove power cord from terminal block (3 nuts). Remove back panel (many screws). 7. From rear of dryer, gain access to idler pulley spring arm. Carefully note how belt routes around motor pulley and idler pulley (maybe record an image). Release belt from idler pulley. 8. Remove idler pulley triangle retainer (if still on pulley shaft) and remove old pulley. 9. Thoroughly vacuum lint and dust from all areas of dryer, internal duct, flexible duct and duct in wall (as far as possible) while dryer is in disassembled state. 10. Thoroughly clean idler pulley shaft of deposits with cloth. If desired, add very small amount of Park Tools Polylube 1000 to the cleaned shaft. 11. Install new washer, idler pulley and triangle retainer to shaft. 12. Re-route belt around pulley in original orientation. 13. Reassemble rear panel to dryer, terminal block to rear panel, and power cable and internal wire to terminal block. 14. Reassemble top cover to dryer. 15. Insert internal duct back into front vent duct, aligning guide marks, and secure with the one screw. 16. Plug unit in and briefly test, then unplug. 17. Again, tilt dryer against wall and reinstall front/bottom panel and screws. 18. Install flexible duct, plug in power cord and position unit for operation.

Had to unstack the unit took it apart and replace the rollers,Belt and Idler Pulley It was the pulley making the noise but I had it a part and for the cost I replace the rollers and the Belt the Job was easy The Washer and Dryer are Great we run about 2 Loads a Day

The tear down on the dryer was more difficult than the instructions and internet showed due to different models used. The kit was not identical to the original parts but close enough to work (I think). The biggest issue we had was getting the drum back in and placed on the wheels where it would turn easily. Overall the repair came together but it was a bit more involved and we anticipated going into the project. The actual noises were caused by the disintegration of the tensioner wheel which broke and was wobbling on the axel.