110C62442510 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

First unplug appliance, Remove dryer top and front. remove drum and belt. Two clamps hold motor in place. remove them and lint chute housing in rear, exposing the fan. Use vice grips to hold motor shaft behind belt pulley flat spot. Remove fan, it's reverse threads. A large adjustable wrench on plastic fan nut and spray lubricant if very tight. Place new motor next to old and switch wires over, crimp on new 1/8'' connectors. Remember the green ground wire may need an allen wrench. Put back drum,belt, lube the rollers and replace back cover, front, top.

Had to replace the rear felt seal and the motor. It was no problem to find videos on how to do both of these repairs. Took apart the appliance. When the parts came first replaced the drum rear felt seal and waited for the motor to be delivered. Then replaced the motor as per online instructions. Also went to Home Depot to buy a new flexible dryer tube since the old one had a few holes. It works perfectly again.

Had a problem holding drum in place and putting front back on. Got it together and drum wouldn't turn. Had to tear it a part again and belt had turned.

after i got the replacement filter, it fit perfectly. the filter is white & my dryer is beige but i don't care...i'm just happy i have a good lint filter again, for my at least 30 year old dryer....thanks part select!

The brightness of the light was because the door switch was allowing too much current to the light bulb when the door was open but the switch would not swich the current to the dryer motor when the door was closed. After a day or so of this bright light it burned out. I removed the two screws on top that hold the lint trap in place then I could access the switch by sliding the top of the dryer forward and lifting the it as you would lift the hood of a car. The switch is on the right side and plugs into a three wire connector and only fits in one way. Cheap and easy fix after unplugging the dryer from the wall power outlet.

After getting the part and sizing up what to do. I removed the 6 1/4 hex nuts from the back. I removed the 2 hinge nuts 3/8 and popped the lid of the dryer up. It wasn't coming up all the way. I removed the lint filter and removed the two #1 Phillips screws that held the lid to the duct and it came up easy.The switch itself was clipped together and came apart with ease. 2 #1 Phillips screws held the switch in place and quickly tightened down the new switch. I clipped the new switch to the old lead and just reversed the order putting it back together. The light worked and the drum stopped when the door was opened during the cycle. The part matched perfectly and there was no guess work about clearance. It was an easy repair.

Determined that the door switch was not making contact. Removed the lint screen, removed two screws in the lint screen housing, pulled the top of the dryer up at the front of the dryer. This provided access to the door switch which was mounted on top.

Step 1. Read all the comments about how to do this job in this forum. (i found them very useful)

Step 2. Read the directions that come with the dryer (they helped a lot)

Step 3. Don't forget to disconnect the power cord before reattaching the door switch wires (oucH! ) or doing anything with your dryer.

Removed the two screws holding in the Filter and removed the filter.

Removed the two screws holding the front onto the dryer.

Put the belt over the drum and proped the drum up.

Reseated the tension spring and pully in the proper slot. (On my machine it is the position closest to the motor).

Reassembled the dryer in the reverse order.

-Took top of by prying with screwdriver.
-2 screws and door wire to take off front panel.
-proped drum with 4X4 piece of wood.
-looped belt around drum where the mark for the old belt was.
-looped belt through tensioner and pulled with the screwdriver over the motors drive shaft.
-manually spun drum to make sure everything was right.
-put panels back on and was done.

You cant go wrong with the included directions and belt diagram. this is the first repair I've done of any kind that went flawless.

First, I unplugged the dryer. I pulled up the lint filter, then unscrewed the two screws there. Then pulled up the top panel. I had a helper hold it up since it couldn't lean against the wall. Then I had to take the front panel off the dryer. The idiots at Kenmore used screws, not pins, so I needed to use a socket wrench to get those two out of the top corners. Then I lifted it up and off. I removed the broken belt. I put in the new one. I replaced the pulley, which had fallen without the tension of the belt holding it in place. It was pretty easy to figure out how it went, but I consulted the online community for a diagram. I threaded the belt in place, replaced the panels, and viola! It worked. Easy.

I love this site! They make it so easy even a woman can do it. Love the diagrams, the trouble shooting helps and reviews/instructions! I followed the printed instructions. Unplugged the cord, removed the lint trap and removed the two screws. Put the lint trap back in and pried the top off. One corner was a little harder than the other but got it! Just lifted the lid just enough to reach the switch right inside. Tried unplugging the old switch, but it didn't come right out. Hubby had to help by using a screwdriver to "unlock" the plug. Then unscrewed the screws on the front of the dryer, inside the door holding the switch. But hold on to it because we dropped the old switch right down into the bottom of the dryer...where it will forever reside since we couldn't find it or get it!! Plugged the new switch in, screwed the screws in to hold the switch in place. Took a little effort to get the screws lined up with the holes on the switch but we got it! Replaced the top, removed the lint trap, screwed the two screws back in, plugged it in and wa-lah! The light came on and the drum stopped when I opened the door! So simple!

The videos on replacing the switch mentioned using a putty knife to pop the top of the dryer open. My dryer is around 10 years old, so a putty knife wasn't strong enough to pop the dryer top off of the clips. Instead, I had to gently stick a flat head screwdriver and twist just to the side of each clip. Other than that, the video instructions were spot-on on for replacing the switch: UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST > remove the lint collector > remove the two screws from the top of the lint collector's slot with a Phillips screwdriver > pop the top of the dryer up gently with a flat head screwdriver (or a putty knife, if that works for you) > remove the two screws holding the switch onto the front of the dryer (it would be good to notate which direction the switch is pointing) > use a flat head screwdriver to pry the faulty switch's clip off of the dryer's wiring harness clip. Then reverse the procedure with the new switch: plug the new switch into the dryer's wiring harness > screw the new switch into the slot on the front of the dryer, making sure that it's oriented in the correct direction with the switch's arm pointing away from the dryer > lower the top of the dryer back down and press it onto the clips > screw the screws back into the lint collection slot > replace the lint collector > plug the dryer back in > test the dryer.

I followed the you tube instructions. Unplugged the dryer. Removed the lint screen. Unscrewed 2 screws. Used puttty knife to open the top of dryer. Located the door switch and unplugged it and replaced with new part. Closed top. Replaced two screws and put lint filter back in. Plugged dryer in and turned it on. It worked like new. I'm a woman and this is second part I've had to replace on this dryer. Watch you tube video.

An online video provided perfect instructions. Unplug the dryer. Remove the Lint filter and see two Phillips screws located on the top of the machine, then remove the screws. Then slide a stiff, thin putty knife under the right front corner between the top and the front panel. The clip inside has small feet holding it in place, so you need to angle the putty knife up slightly, then push in towards the back of the dryer while lifting up on the top. The corner will lift away from the front. Repeat the process on the other front corner. Now lift up the top that is hinged at the rear. I used a 24" 1 x 2 board to keep the top up. Open the front door and remove the two screws that hold the switch in place then unplug the switch on the inside of the dryer and remove. Plug in the new switch (2 or 3 wires may be present, but it doesn't matter). Attach the new switch using the two screws you removed. Lower the lid and tap each front corner to reengage the clips, then put the two screws back in at the lint filter. Replace the filter, plug the dryer back in, and you're done. I honestly think that it took longer to type these instructions than it took to do the actual repair.