110C62442510 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Just like your video said. Very easy. I will purchase from you again. Thank you!!!!

Removed back cover. Removed old timer and connected wiring to the new one. Installed new timer and put the back cover back on.

the video was very well done and able to understand. disconnect power ,remove lint trap,remove 2 phillps head screws, push putty knife in front seam line about 1'' in from corners to release top assembly ,lift up and support, disconnect wire connector ,remove 1 screw in each front corner lift front panel off while holding drum, remove broken belt,install new belt with grooves against drum ,feed around tensioner pulley and onto motor shaft pulley ,spin drum by hand to make sure belt tracking etc. reassembly in reverse.

watched your video on 'how to' and did it like man showed..no problem

I removed the two screws underneath the lent trap the removed the two screws that held the dryer switch assembly. I then lifted up the top and disconnected the door switch assembly. Removing the door switch assembly was the toughest part, and it was not difficult. Simply grab a pair of pliers and pull. I the attatched the new door switch assembly and the four screws and my dryerwas as good as new. I paid around $20.00 including shipping and saved myself a couple of hundred dollars

Received the new lint removal from the box and install it easily

I pushed one end of the catch on upper side the hole and when locked, I pushed the other end of the catch to the lower side to get locked. To complete, the white cover was inserted on top of the catch and done.

took out old ,twisted in the new one it was nice to have the right part the first time!! thank-you

Remove the lint screen, then remove the two (2) Phillips screws that are at the entrance of the lint screen compartment. Take a putty knife and insert it under the top pannel of the dryer about 1” in from the outside and push the putty knife in as you lift that corner of the pannel. Repeat on the other side. Then raise the lid and prop it up. The door switch is on the right side just behind the door on the inside. Open the door and remove the two screws that hold the switch and remove the switch. Install the new switch like the old one came out and close it up you’re ready to go! It is very easy you can’t hurt anything.

Remove the protective cover on door with screwdriver, pop out the old catch, snap new catch in place, replace protective cover

Gently remove the door bezel by prying it off with a small screwdriver. Then remove the door catch from the door with the same screwdriver. Be careful not to drop it in the door. I did and had to fish it out with a small hooked pick. Install the new door catch by sliding the top in first then the bottom. Again, careful not to drop it in the door. Then snap the door bezel back in place.

Very simple remove door pull off old seal, apply small amount of adhesive around seal seat. Install seal to door let cure for several hours over night is best

1. Didn't understand how to do continuity test for 3-wire door switch. After looking that up, I discovered that wasn't the problem ! I have tested, the thermal fuse, oscillating fuse,start switch, I've tested the timer and the black , blue connections go to zero ( continuity good) the tan , white connections just barely off of infinity. I've ordered a new timer. I'll let you know if that's the problem. If you can more diagnostic videos. AKH

There are many good youtube Kenmore/Whirlpool door switch replacement demos online. The one already done by this site )was close enough for me. I could see that the door switch on my dryer was bad (the plastic part that the door makes contact with was visibly broken, as seen from the outside) -- so I ordered a new one. You don't have to open the top fully to access the switch wiring harness -- i propped it open with a roll of duct tape, The hardest part for me was to disconnect the old switch from the harness (I used a small flat bladed screwdriver to free it). Be careful, the metal inside the opened dryer is sharp, and can cut you.

Very difficult for one person, trying to get the belt engaged into the motor pulley and the idler pulley at the same time. Trying to overcome the tension of the heavy spring on the idler was the main problem, while coping with the small working space with the drum in place. Solved all the problems by removing the drum (for the 3rd time) and making a piece of wood to wedge in against the outside wall of the machine to hold back the spring loaded idler. Then slipped the drum back in place and gently slid the belt around the drum. Then reached in under the drum and slipped the wood piece out while making sure the belt remained on the pulleys. If I had the wood idea at the start, it would have been about a half hour job. Good luck, and don't pinch your fingers.