110C65132410 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I first unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall. I had to remove the vent tubing to gain access to the rear of the unit, then removed the screws on the back panel of the dryer. I took off the panel and noticed that lint that had gathered over the years around the back of the dryer. I vacuumed it clean then proceeded to problem solve. I noticed four easily identifiable areas, the thermal cut-off switch and thermostat located by the heating coil and the thermostat and fuse near the venting area. I first checked the fuse with a ohm meter, it was okay. I removed each component one at a time and created a bypass with a alligator clip wire. Plugged the dryer back in to determine if heat was produced while testing each area one at a time. I determined that heat was produced after bypassing the thermal cut-off switch. I then ordered the thermal cut-off switch kit (arrived within 3 days) and installed it within 20 minutes. The longest time spent was trouble shooting, the removal and installation was very easy. By the way, I did use the ohm meter to check the resistance across the thermostats as indicated in previous postings, but I found the results and technique to be more confusing. A bypass worked the best for me and much more reliable. The heat started immediately. I highly recommend downloading the schematics of your unit for part number and location identification.

Removed the drum then removed the old parts and installed the new ones. Dryer now runs very quite and heats good. You have very fast service my mother ordered the parts on the net one day and I received the parts next day and did the repair that night and dried clothes. Thanks,

Your great service is very hard to find.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

The dryer was igniting when initially starting load, but didn't light again the rest of the cycle. On my model the access was through the front panel, didn't even have to pull dryer out. Open the door and there are two screws on each side.of the inside of frame. Remove screws and lift door off the the whole front of the pulls out and down and removes, and everything is right there to work on. Replaced thermostat, that took 5 min. But didn't fix the problem. So I purchased and replaced the "M" Series New Style Coil Kit, took about 10 min. I took olm/continuity readings b/t all terminals of the old and new coils and they were only about 5% difference, the old being a little lower. But that fixed the problem, works like new again.

Removed old filter and replaced with the new one.

I unplugged the machine and removed the back panel with a 1/4" socket. I unplugged each thermostat in turn and pulled them out. The internal bias was a bit tricky to remove without breaking the tabs or wires. I then placed each thermostat back in and replaced all the wires. Not bad at all. Weird thing is the dryer heats just fine now, until I put the back panel on; once I replace the back panel, it will not heat.

Thank goodness the part was still available for a 25 year old dryer. Website was great to help solve the problem and the video was wonderful to show me how to identify the part and how to get to it. You take off the back of the dryer and then unscrew the thermostat from it's mooring. Undo the 4 wire connections. Stick in the new thermostat and re-install. Thank you!

First I watched the repair video on-line at this site After pulling the dryer away from the wall and unplugging the 220 volt power cord I removed the back panel with the 9 screws. I then unplugged the wires to the thermostat/heating element. With an ohm meter I discovered that the heating element was good and the high limit thermostat was bad. I ordered the high limit thermostat from this site on a 2 day shipment. When the part arrived I installed the part and the wires. Plugged in the dryer for a quick check for heating. Replaced the back panel and moved the dryer back into position. Dryer works fine now.

i took a stab that it was the thermostat,but it wasn't.after finding out it was the coils i purchased them and lifted the top of the dryer and undid two screws in the upper front of the dryer and lifted the front off all while holding the tub in place.The coils are located in the very front left of the dryer,i took the holder bracket off,disconnected the wires and replaced the coils(they just sit on a rod)dryer works like new and thanks to the new thermostat also gets hotter,i'm guessing that was next.

I inserted the sharp kniife point, pryed back a flap , thus releasing the nylon locking hook, in the slot. then did the other side...I removed the white plastic handle, leaving the metal frame, which lay more flat in the filter channel. I put a box of screws on top of the dryer flap to keep it snug.. this is a Kenmore about 15 years old.
Grahare

Attributed excessive noise to age of dryer, upon closer inspection, a dish towel had become caught at rear of drum because the drum support rollers were damaged causing the drum to create a space in the rear of the drum. This was large enough for the dish towel to be caught. Originally I thought that the thermal fuse had blown the circuit-which should occur in an overheating situation-however the loose drum had worn through the electrical wire leading to the door switch because it was not properly seated on the rear drum rollers. the wire was repaired with a wire nut, rear drum rollers were installed and it is working again. thank you for the extremely fast shipping

received part 4 days after order. very pleased about that! Local Sears Service center was out of stock.

carefully removed old "handleless" lint filter.
inserted new lint filter and Voila! success.

still no heat.

I bought a new thermo cut off and replaced the old one.

Looked on YouTube and found these guys. Followed their instructions and no problem.