110C65132410 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Watched the videos available. Opened the top and saw tub jumping. Unplugged and removed front panel. Saw tub rollers were broken or melted. Removed tub watched more videos, and installed the felt belt I got from PartsSelect. Trouble removing the tub rollers, but finally got them off. The axles had a sticky residue which I removed with 220 grit sandpaper. I installed new rollers I had bought locally. Reassembled dryer. Worked quietly and smoothly, and it no longer shut itself down. Worked well for one day when it started.s loud noise with bumping. I found both rollers had lost their outer rim , and the tub was running on hard plastic and there was sticky residue back on the ankles. I stopped there.

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

1. Popped off hinged dryer lid at front and supported to allow access to lint chute
2. Removed back sheet metal panel
3. Removed dryer chute to expose sensor; removed same-deformed terminal on top needs to be straightened with pliers to remove through slot.
4. Installed new sensor; terminal needs to be twisted to ensure solid installation and good ground. Bottom pops in but took a bit of finagling.

Accessing and replacing the sensor was straightforward enough; bulk of the job was cleaning off old gasket material (severely degraded) in two locations. Used plastic scraper and razor blade scraper, then cleaned sticky with goo gone. Installed new gasket strip from Home Depot; available in rolls. I used 1/4" x 3/8". Surprising how much lint/hair/debris was in bottom of lint chute. Glad to get it all clean.

first i removed the back cover by removing the six 1/4 inch screws then i removed the wires to the thermal switch there were three of them and using an ohm meter i checked each one for continuity until i found the one that had an open circuit. i removed the two 1/4 inch screws holding it in place and replaced it with the new one.

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

I followed disassembly directions found on youtube and replaced th two-piece ring bearing that was identified by a parts diagra fron PartSelect. The repair was easy. Fix time was about thirty mionutes.

after i got the replacement filter, it fit perfectly. the filter is white & my dryer is beige but i don't care...i'm just happy i have a good lint filter again, for my at least 30 year old dryer....thanks part select!

removed the back housing of the dryer and located the thermal switch. unscrewed the old one, popped in the new one and whala! I was back in business!

put the back cover back on the dryer and pushed it back into place.

put the high limit in , plus the temperature , plus the exhaust switches

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

lifted top section of dryer
removed front dryer panel
removed drum belt and tensioner
removed both drum rollers
cleaned both roller axles
installed new rollers
reassembled remainder of dryer
if you are at all mechanically inclined, it is a simple job

Read this site and saw many fixed the problem with a new thermostat. Ordered one and it was simple to replace. Just removed the back panel of the dryer and the thermostat is right there. Two screws to remove it, swap the four wiring plugs onto the new one, reinstall it. Unfortunately that didn't fix it so went back online and ordered the coil kit, another common solution. Removed front of dryer by removing the two screws the hold the lint trap onto the top and the two hinge plate screws on back of dryer to tilt the top up ward and backward. Removed two mounting screws on inside of dryer front and slip front panel upward to remove. The coils are right in the front down at the bottom left of dryer.Used an offset screwdriver to remove the two screws holding them in place. They slide right out, one has two prongs, one has three. Replace them with the new coils and put them back in place. Reassembled and everything works now. Grand total of eight screws removed and replaced, pretty simple. I'd recommend buying two or three parts if you see several parts as possibilities for a repair. Easier than doing it the dummy way like I did!

This model you cannot lift the top lid without breaking it. Removed the exhaust hose and back of dryer. vacuum out the dryer and hose to remove the excess lint. Remove screws from the lint guard mounting. Loosen and remove 4 screws that hold the lint guard in place. The seal at the base of this assembly was missing the seal around the discharges fan. Remove seal with putty knife. Use a small brass wire brush to remove as much as you can. Vacuum area. Reinstall the lint guard assembly, start at the top, gently life and push assembly up and in. You should be able to determine how far. Start the bottom 4 screws, tight them. Check fit. Then put the screw back in on the lint guard on the top of dryer. Once you have completed this connect exhaust hose. Start dryer, check the dryer exhaust vent that is outside. If the flow is good, WELL DONE!

Recommendation: Check this assembly by removing the back of the dryer approximately every 6 mos. for lint build up. Not doing this may increase the risk of fire.

removed door and front panel this exposed all the control devices I changed out the thermostat ndn repaired the dryer

Unplugged the unit, removed the back panel of the dryer and then removed the thermostat panel. Disconnected the wires on the thermostat and changed out the thermostat.