11068132410 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Using a stiff putty knife I depressed the clips that hold the top down. I loosened the screws at the lower edge of the front panel and removed the two 5/16 head screws that hold the front on. I unplugged the door switch and lifted the front off the lower screws. I removed the drum and the broken belt. I replaced the rear rollers after applying some dry lube to the shafts and replaced the tension spring and rolled. I replaced the drum and belt and attached the belt to the small pulley on the motor. Then checked the rear gasket felt and reinstalled the front cover and the top.

Had to order idler lever and wheel as the one in the kit would not work. Best to buy part specific for your dryer. Repair was easy, just watch repair video. Sounds like new dryer again

We did repair by first watching a you tube video, then jumping in an dgoing step by step through the video. While not exactly the same dryer, the steps were in sequence. We thoroughly sleaned out the dryer with the tub out before reassembly. Th eonly slightly tricky part was putting front piece back, but once we mad esure ot align the sides for squareness the dryer went back together smoothly, execpt for one dropped screw. that was fished out through the bottom panel. The dryer runs quietly and we can watch TV with the door open to the laundry room again. I should have done this a long time ago. It started out by sqeaking at startup, then grew worse over time. I recomend anyone with a friend should be able to do this. Now with Cell phone pictures it is even easier to remember where the screw go.

Disconnected the power and duct from the dryer. Removed the back and top of the dryer by removing the 1/4" screws. Created slack in the belt by compressing the spring and moving the idler arm.Slid the belt off the pulley. Removed the tri-ring clip, slid the old pulley and gasket off. Cleaned and inspected the shaft and vacuumed the inside of the dryer. replaced the gasket, pulley and tri-ring clip. Replaced the top and back of the dryer. Connected duct and power.

Pull lint screen, remove two phillips screws,pry top front up and hinge back,remove two screws at top inside, unplug door switch, lift front and remove, remove drum. Read instructions,install new parts, reverse above dis-assembly, happy dying.

We only had to tilt the dryer enough to be able to screw the leveling leg in place.The only hard part was holding the dryer steady to screw in the leveling foot.

My husband changed the idler pulley. It took him 5 min. Thank you sooooooooooo much. Saved us 1000.00 dollars. He wanted to by a new one but investigated the problem on line. He is a handyman and was just being lazy. I ordered the part and he fixed it. I love saving money!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I love my husband!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I replace the terminal block, wires , and dryer plug I unscrewed the back of the dryer and basically replace was burnt out. I was about to pay 200.00 to have it done but I looked on youtube and seen how easy it was so I just chose the site to order what I needed to be replace and it arrived quickly and more affordable to do it myself. Thanks I hope the was useful.

Removed the top panel of the dryer via a couple of screws from the rear. Remove the rear panel swing it open light a door to the right, minding the electrical connections. Removed the belt from the pulley, removed the Tri-ring from the shaft and slid the pulley off of the shaft. The shaft was slightly rusted so I used a steel brush and brake cleaner to clean it up, placed the new gasket, pulley, and tri-ring on, replaced the belt, and put the panels back into place. As the dryer is about 7 years old, also removed the front lower panel and cleaned out unit which had quite a bit of accumulated dust and glitter especially in the vent lines. (3 girls live here). Pretty easy, most screws remove with just the one tool.

Following the step by step instructions it took longer to clean the old lint out of the bottom of the dryer than to perform the entire repair.The maintenance kit came complete with every moving part(except the motor and drum)and now it runs very quietly.I am all thumbs when it comes to tools but this was very simple.

Kit arrived with all the parts required and with detailed instructions. LOL... the very specialized tool you will need to dis-assemble the dryer? A PUTTY KNIFE. All in all, aside from the top of the dryer slamming shut without warning and scaring the pants off me, this was a relatively easy repair from a technical level. Only real difficult thing was removing and then restoring the drum and that was more due to clearance than actually being difficult. Make sure once you're finished to LEVEL THE DRYER. That makes a HUGE difference!!!!!

I simply followed the instructions, replaced the belt, tub support wheels and tension pullie. Could not have been easier. I figured it was worth $47.00 to buy the kit and if it was another issue, at least I saved money vs. a service call. There are only so many things that can go wrong and the belt was the fix. 20 yr old dryer works just like new.

Took the back off of the dryer and diagnosed the problem. When I saw that the belt was broken I got online and looked for a place to find a replacement. Found Partselect.com and checked out their site and not only did I find the right parts but I also found a video detailing the repair. I purchased a maintenance kit (the belt, the wheels, and the hardware) and the next day my parts arrived and I was able to get the dryer back together in no time at all.

After removing the bottom front panel using a putty knife to pry the upper left and right edges of the panel, I noticed that the long thin drum belt had broken. I went online to PartSelect, and using the Whirlpool model number, found the parts diagrams. Since the dryer is 20 years old, I decided to order the maintenance kit part# PS373087 which includes new idler wheels, retainer clips, and a tension pulley as well as the belt . I found a number of webpages that offer guidance in replacing the belt. Along with the instructions that came with the maintenance kit, I was able to do the repairs and have the dryer up and running in 30 minutes. Remember to remove the door springs before taking off the upper front panel. You only need to loosen the bottom screws on this panel. Leaving them in place helps to align and hold the panel when re-installing it.

Remove the lint filter. Remove top without disturbing control wiring -- turn top on end but make sure it cannot fall. Unhook contacts on door switch. Remove screws hloding front panel and kick plate. Remove door hinge springs. Remove front panel and kick plate.Fish out old broken belt. Remove drum. Vacuum out all the lint. Reposition/replace pulley assembly and wheels. Place new belt around drum. Reinstall drum being careful to properly position the seal at rear. Prop up the drum with a suitable sized article to keep it in position temporarily - or have someone else hold it in position. Thread drive belt through pulley assembly per directions and put over drive hub. Manually turn drum to ensure proper belt and seal positioning. Put front panel back on. Turn drum while inspecting seal -- use putty knife to slip under seal if necessary to ensure its not folded under drum lip. Remove the prop holding up drum. Reinstall door hinges springs.Reinstall kick plate. Reinstall top.