11071262310 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I removed the two screws underneath the lent trap the removed the two screws that held the dryer switch assembly. I then lifted up the top and disconnected the door switch assembly. Removing the door switch assembly was the toughest part, and it was not difficult. Simply grab a pair of pliers and pull. I the attatched the new door switch assembly and the four screws and my dryerwas as good as new. I paid around $20.00 including shipping and saved myself a couple of hundred dollars

Removed old door switch and tested with ohms meter. It registered as charged, but when black button was pushed it did not cut off (go to zero). Replaced the part just like the video showed. Only problem i had was dropping my screwdriver down into the dryer well. It was doing no harm so i left it there since i tried retrieving from the back but was not able to get entire back off!

First removed lint screen, then removed screws holding lint screen housing.Pushed on back of machine a little so that top could be pried up. Then replaced switch and put everything back together. Helps to have two people so one can push on back of top piece while top of machine is being pried up.

1. Didn't understand how to do continuity test for 3-wire door switch. After looking that up, I discovered that wasn't the problem ! I have tested, the thermal fuse, oscillating fuse,start switch, I've tested the timer and the black , blue connections go to zero ( continuity good) the tan , white connections just barely off of infinity. I've ordered a new timer. I'll let you know if that's the problem. If you can more diagnostic videos. AKH

We had to pop open the top. Unscrew front of dryer from sides. Disconnecting the wires was a bit more difficult than expected. We had to use a tiny screwdriver to slide into the sides of the white wire connector on each side before pulling apart. Front drum falls when front of dryer is removed. It took two of us to reassemble - one to hold the drum while the other put the front on. Our problem turned out to be one wheel. We replaced both wheels and saved the rest of the parts. Hums along just fine.

Two parts were needed in order to convert the dry back to Natural Gas. Part Select is usually good, but dropped the ball completely on this one. I received the correct Orifice, but was not asked or told about the need for the part for the regulator so the gas pressure would be changed back to Natural Gas. I found one at a local supplier and finished the switch. I chose to change the belt while in there because the dryer sounded like the belt had a chunk missing with the rhythmic thump. After installing the new, I found that one of the tumble paddles had a penny flopping inside it. One thump per revolution. This is the first in my career that the technician had not left the original orifice and regulator cap attached to the dryer.

Removed old seal and replaced with new one. Save yourself time and get some acetone to remove old glue works great!

I changed the belt, tension pully and rollers. Runs like new now. I also took the opportunity to clean it out real good while I had it apart.

Had to replace the rear felt seal and the motor. It was no problem to find videos on how to do both of these repairs. Took apart the appliance. When the parts came first replaced the drum rear felt seal and waited for the motor to be delivered. Then replaced the motor as per online instructions. Also went to Home Depot to buy a new flexible dryer tube since the old one had a few holes. It works perfectly again.

First unplug appliance, Remove dryer top and front. remove drum and belt. Two clamps hold motor in place. remove them and lint chute housing in rear, exposing the fan. Use vice grips to hold motor shaft behind belt pulley flat spot. Remove fan, it's reverse threads. A large adjustable wrench on plastic fan nut and spray lubricant if very tight. Place new motor next to old and switch wires over, crimp on new 1/8'' connectors. Remember the green ground wire may need an allen wrench. Put back drum,belt, lube the rollers and replace back cover, front, top.

Had a problem holding drum in place and putting front back on. Got it together and drum wouldn't turn. Had to tear it a part again and belt had turned.

Very difficult for one person, trying to get the belt engaged into the motor pulley and the idler pulley at the same time. Trying to overcome the tension of the heavy spring on the idler was the main problem, while coping with the small working space with the drum in place. Solved all the problems by removing the drum (for the 3rd time) and making a piece of wood to wedge in against the outside wall of the machine to hold back the spring loaded idler. Then slipped the drum back in place and gently slid the belt around the drum. Then reached in under the drum and slipped the wood piece out while making sure the belt remained on the pulleys. If I had the wood idea at the start, it would have been about a half hour job. Good luck, and don't pinch your fingers.

I opened the top and front of the dryer. 1st I pulled out the drum and cleaned up the lint and mess from the busted support roller. Next it was a matter of looking at the enclosed drawing and instructions. I could not believe it was that easy.

pulled dryer away from wall took screws out of lint screen lift top removed 2 screws one on each side of front at top and removed front panel. pulled belt off drum removed drum rollers tension pulley and while i was at it pulled back cover off of heating element and blower blew everything out with air hose did a total cleaning installed everything in reverse. i was amazed how fast the parts came the dryer was only down 2 days and it runs like new even if it is 20 years old i highly recommend parts slect and i will use them in the future

There are many good youtube Kenmore/Whirlpool door switch replacement demos online. The one already done by this site )was close enough for me. I could see that the door switch on my dryer was bad (the plastic part that the door makes contact with was visibly broken, as seen from the outside) -- so I ordered a new one. You don't have to open the top fully to access the switch wiring harness -- i propped it open with a roll of duct tape, The hardest part for me was to disconnect the old switch from the harness (I used a small flat bladed screwdriver to free it). Be careful, the metal inside the opened dryer is sharp, and can cut you.