1106708620 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

After removing the back (five nut screws), lifting the top (two lint filter screws), I diagnosed the problem (timer, fuse and sensors tested OK - heating element broken). I uninstalled the heating element cage sensors (three nut screws) but did not unwire them. Then I removed the heating element cage (one nut screw on top and lift) - the right angle screwdriver was very helpful. I removed the broken element (one nut screw on bottom). Ordered from Parts Select online because they had the element for a better price & quicker expedited shipping than Sears. As soon as the part arrived (two days!), I rewired and installed the element and assembled the dryer in the reverse order of the above process. Total time from package arrival to drying clothes (BIG stack) - 30 minutes!

just like the guy in the video. It was easy to folow his instructions, and the best thing of all i could stop the video if I had a question and then resume!

re-placed screen

This was rather easy to fix. I had never opened the dryer before but had a serviceman come out so I knew that you can pop the top of the dryer off by putting a flat edge screwdriver in between the top and bottom and popping up. You must remove the screws from the lint dryer before so the top comes off. The piece to replace had two screws and that was it. To get a repairmen from Sxxrs where we purchased it 15 years ago they charge a flat fee of $75 just to come out. That does not include the repair just a fee to come and tell you how much more it would cost to fix it. I ordered the part for less than $5 and $12 more for 2-3 day delivery! What a bargin! I was back drying clothes 15 minutes after the part arrived! Very happy that the part is still being made!

Disconnect dryer.
Unscrew the two screws that hold the door actuator assemby.
replace broken spring.
Screw the the two screws back.

Dryer was taking long time to dry cloths, electric bill seemed higer than usual, used 1/4" nutdriver, removed rear panel, opened top cover w/screw driver to pry with, marked all wires with blk tape to id them later. Did thorugh inspect/clean of link section to propeller baleds 1 hr, continuity check of heater, switches etc found heater lower than spec, ordered heater, continued to clean all sections & vents, installed new vent hose, pulled about 2lbs of sand, dust, lint from all sections, heater works great now, clothes dry quick. New heater core came in mail and installed it. The newer elecment was 5200 watts, orig was 5400 watts, ohms was same, size etc. The unit works like a charm. Notes:Did not check or lubricat the drum. Drum is very squeaky, belt in good shape. Dryer is 20yrs old. Will replace when I can afford it! for now I can live with some sqeaks, anyway as I am getting older my hearing is going away, Good luck.

Used the dryer illustrated parts list to find the heater. Used a multi-meter to determine that the heater had no resistance, meaning it was open and could not heat. Removed the heating element held to the dryer with one hex screw with a wrench. Purchased a replacement heating element and received it within 2 days. Screwed the new heating element with a hex wrench again. The dryer works like new now.

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

Before beginning, unplugged dryer. 1) Used putty knife at each front corner of top to pop lid loose from clips. 2) Removed hex screws at back of control panel to allow lid to tip open. 3) With lid opened, removed hex screw from inside-top of each side to allow front to pull open from side panels and access door switch easily. 4) Removed clip that holds retaining wires from top. 5) Pulled wire from each side of door switch. 6) Removed switch assembly using Phillips screwdriver to remove two screws mounting switch at top of door opening. 7) Removed broken actuator spring and replaced. 8) Reversed process to reassemble.

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

lifted top section of dryer
removed front dryer panel
removed drum belt and tensioner
removed both drum rollers
cleaned both roller axles
installed new rollers
reassembled remainder of dryer
if you are at all mechanically inclined, it is a simple job

pulled out the old one and put in the new one. I wish all repairs were this easy. I also had to reattach the vent hose, which is annoying because I'm the only one who fits behing the dryer without disconnecting the gas. I never touch the gas related parts.

I appreciate how easy your website made it, to get the parts, I would recomend this site and will be back myself.

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

1 Vice grips are required to remove the fan/blower. Clamp on inside of dryer so you can remove the blower/fan assembly

Recommend 10" or larger 14" will definitely do the job

2. Blower/fan is reverse threaded when facing the back of the dryer. That is how I broke mine. Turn clockwise to loosen - feels very unnatural

3. If you have to replace the 5 & 6 electrical connectors, you have to have a barrel crimper for insulated terminals - IWISS SN-02C RATCHET TERMINAL CRIMPING PLIER TOOL, 24-14AWG is a good example