11067086600 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Took Putty Trowel and pried out top and bottom then pulled out with needle nose pliers, new part just pops back in (be sure flanges are on top and bottom not sides).

Didn't have a putty knife, so used a flathead screwdriver to carefully pop out the top, then bottom of the catch. New one easily popped in. Took less than one minute!

The repair cost us less than $9.00 and about 1 minute to repair. You can only imagine how much a tech would have charged us!! We are so very happy that we discovered this site . The instruction video they offered, the customer service via their website AND quick delivery of the part, has insured them that we will be repeat customers. Thanks so much !!!!! Bravo! Annie & Peter in , Nevada

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

pushed the broken catch into the door and snapped the new one back in. Works perfectly!

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

Removed the old screen and simply put in the new one

I tried to remove the part with pliers but could not remove it so I removed the screws that hold the front part of the door. I took the front part off, removed the broken plastic and then lifted on side of the catch so that the bottom of the front part came thru the door and then was able to remove the door latch. The installation of the new part took about 15 seconds to put in by pushing it into the opening where the broken part was removed. I put the front part of the door back and put the screws back and the dryer works fine.

Used screwdriver to remove old catch as shown via video from manufacture and snapped in new catch. Very easy to do and saved big bucks by doing myself.

Removed front of dryer. Located thermal fuse, replaced blown thermal fuse. Reassembled.

The first thing I did was to watch the video from Part select on How to change thermostat cut off switch and the high limit thermostat fuse.I did not have a meter reader I just brought the thermostat cut off kit for about $ 32.00 dollars from part select and replace both part's and my dryer still was not getting hot so back to part select video's I looked up the video on replacing the heater element and I ordered one for about $ 97.00 with shipping I replaced it and put it back together and it worked it took just a few hours . I would like to give Avery special thank to part select for the video help and for having the parts for a great price again thank you so much.

Had to force the old door catch out using the putty knife didn't work. Worked on it until I finally forced it out.

I placed the putty knife on the top part of the door catch and when that came loose I placed the putty knife on the bottom of the door catch and pushed on the putty knife and the door catch came out of its place. I then just popped the new door catch in place. Total repair time 45 seconds. The door now closes.

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger