11077062600 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Simply removed back cover on dryer and the idler pulley wheel and arm was right there and only had one screw to remove after relieving tension on belt by removing spring. Very simple

1) Unplugged unit & used the 5 in 1 tool to disengage top panel clips from top of front panel & tilted top panel up & out of the way, .
2) Disconnected electrical connection @ upper right of front panel, Used drill & 5/16" socket & adapter to remove 2 upper front panel screws on backside of panel & removed panel.
3) Removed 4 screws from lint screen duct, unplugged elect. con.@ the right & removed lint screen & duct from dryer bulkhead..
4) Loosened 2 top screws & removed 2 bottom screws from bulkhead & lifted bulkhead up & out & set aside.
5) Slid drum belt off the back of the drum & removed the drum
6) Ceaned the blower moter drive shaft threads & threads inside the shaft pulley. Used a file to clean up any burrs on shaft pulley, coated treads of pulley & shaft with red lock tite thread dressing & re-instaled pulley back onto shaft with ajustable pliers while holding blower fan blades steady from inside the blower motor housing. with other hand. note: (pulley is left handed thread)
7) Looped new belt onto drive motor pulley then worked it back onto blower moter pulley with one hand while turning the blades of the blower from inside the blower housing with other hand until it was back in place & ribs on belt were seated in the mating ribs of the pulley.
8) Put everything back in reverse order with the exception of removing the back panel to reinstall the drum belt onto the drive motor shaft pulley and tensioner @ bottom left in back of the dryer.

Hope this instructional is able to help some one else & good luck with your projects!

Changed all 4 drum support wheels and belt tension arm

I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.

removed old latch with pliers - inserted new latch

Same as others.
1. Unplug dryer from power source
2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer
3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer)
4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me)
5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out
6. Remove and replace secondary coil
7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil
8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit
9. Replace lower front panel on unit

PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.

First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.

First, lift top by pushing in the 2 locking clips ( with the dryer door open), otherwise it won't lift.
Secondly, remove front cover by taking out 2 screws easily seen . If you see any electrical connectors, remove them.
Only thing a bit nightmarish was installing the new belt. It didn't seem long enough even though it was the original exact replacement. I got hair dryer blower, used on belt for 30 seconds, and mission accomplished.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

The design of the dryer did not make the conversion easy, I had to disassemble the entire front end, top and remove the drum. The kit included a new spud that's it (22.00?). Anyway the gas valve is convertible from NAT to LP only requires turning a portion of the valve about 25 degrees. I managed with a screwdriver as I could not locate my snap ring pliers(just moved). The directions were spot on, read them through once before you start.

I replaced the thermos fuse, thermostat, igniter kit, and the M series
new style coil kit. The problem was the M series coil kit. I replaced
the other parts because this dryer is over 10 years old. I also brought
the radiant flame sensor. I spent $126.19 in parts plus shipping. If I just
just replaced the coil kit it would have 18.61 plus shipping. A new gas dryer like I have would cost about $459.00. I hope to get many more years out of this dryer. The hardest part of this repair for me was getting the front panel back on. I saved the parts that were good for futher repairs. I replaced the drum belt several years ago, still looks in good shape. I think this is a great DIY site. Just follow their instrutions. Somtimes I'll take a picture of the part before I remove it, just to be sure I replace it right.

After opening the bottom access panel, I found a lot of lint build up which is very flammable. I took my leaf blower and cleaned it all out. Then I just followed the instructions that came with the part. But be careful as the igniter is fragile. I broke the first one...

I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.

Good trouble shooting information.