11087701700 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Not a handyman but this was an easy and cheap fix. Now the automatic settings are working and drying much faster. Unplug machine, front panel has 2 spring clips toward the edges that you stick a flat tool into and pull on the panel to open. Pull off the electrical connections from the old sensors by the right side of the lint screen. Needlenose pliers help with the one farther up there. Then just pull the old ones sensors out, stick the new ones in, reconnect the electrical and get ready to live the good life with dry clothes that don't smell musty.

Remove old filter
Vacuum out
Install new filter

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.

Remove top,front and panels.change thermal fuse and outlet thermistor.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

Drum belt broke. Found drive shaft belt guide broke. Replaced pulley wheel since I had it apart.

I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

We have a very early model of the He3. We had to follow directions for the He2 model to replace the heater element and thermostat. Access is easy through the front panel, but removing and replacing the element required some force and maneuvering in a small area.

We replaced both the element and the thermostat since we had the entire part disconnected and removed. So far working great!

Disassembled dryer. That was the hard part. Figuring out how to get the top off the dryer so I could get the drum out took the most time. The end caps on the control panel had to be removed by forcing them outward to release the plastic catches. Then the bottom corner screws were removed to allow the panel to swing up out of the way. The top panel could now be removed. To gain access to the belt and tensioner the blower and ducting off the front of the motor had to be removed to remove the belt. Now the drum was able to be lifted out. The motor swap was a cinch with no wiring modifications required. Reassembly was the reverse, with the most difficult thing being tightening up the blower fan. This required putting a wrench on the belt end of motor shaft and holding it while reaching thru a narrow gap on top of the fan ducting.

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

I checked continuity of all electrical points. I took the top off, then the back, and front of the dryer off so it was easy to inspect the whole dryer. I was also able to clean unwanted dust, and lent with a shop vacuum by doing this.
Keep track of different screws, and mark each screw location with a permanent magic marker. Taking pictures with camera phone is very helpful. Pay attention to electrical connections as well, some of those will need to be dismantled.
Try not to take apart anything more than needed. Watching some online video's can be very helpful as well.
If uncomfortable doing this, call a service repair technician.
I'm a farm boy, and repairs usually come easy to me, but not always.

I found a simple video on YouTube. I removed the front panel and door. I removed drum and belt drive. Heater element was then easily accessible. I removed all wires after taking pictures of wiring. Element was secured by one screw and one clip and was easily removed. Removed element from element cover. Checked thermostat and thermal overload. Put new element inside of element cover. Then replaced everything in reverse order. Removing lint from inside of dryer was probably the most difficult part of repair. Had to have assistance from my son to put drum belt back on but rest of replacement was simple.

Watched video & took my time. It went easy