1107057700 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Had to replace the rear felt seal and the motor. It was no problem to find videos on how to do both of these repairs. Took apart the appliance. When the parts came first replaced the drum rear felt seal and waited for the motor to be delivered. Then replaced the motor as per online instructions. Also went to Home Depot to buy a new flexible dryer tube since the old one had a few holes. It works perfectly again.

First unplug appliance, Remove dryer top and front. remove drum and belt. Two clamps hold motor in place. remove them and lint chute housing in rear, exposing the fan. Use vice grips to hold motor shaft behind belt pulley flat spot. Remove fan, it's reverse threads. A large adjustable wrench on plastic fan nut and spray lubricant if very tight. Place new motor next to old and switch wires over, crimp on new 1/8'' connectors. Remember the green ground wire may need an allen wrench. Put back drum,belt, lube the rollers and replace back cover, front, top.

Had a problem holding drum in place and putting front back on. Got it together and drum wouldn't turn. Had to tear it a part again and belt had turned.

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

1 Vice grips are required to remove the fan/blower. Clamp on inside of dryer so you can remove the blower/fan assembly

Recommend 10" or larger 14" will definitely do the job

2. Blower/fan is reverse threaded when facing the back of the dryer. That is how I broke mine. Turn clockwise to loosen - feels very unnatural

3. If you have to replace the 5 & 6 electrical connectors, you have to have a barrel crimper for insulated terminals - IWISS SN-02C RATCHET TERMINAL CRIMPING PLIER TOOL, 24-14AWG is a good example

Before beginning, unplugged dryer. 1) Used putty knife at each front corner of top to pop lid loose from clips. 2) Removed hex screws at back of control panel to allow lid to tip open. 3) With lid opened, removed hex screw from inside-top of each side to allow front to pull open from side panels and access door switch easily. 4) Removed clip that holds retaining wires from top. 5) Pulled wire from each side of door switch. 6) Removed switch assembly using Phillips screwdriver to remove two screws mounting switch at top of door opening. 7) Removed broken actuator spring and replaced. 8) Reversed process to reassemble.

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

lifted top section of dryer
removed front dryer panel
removed drum belt and tensioner
removed both drum rollers
cleaned both roller axles
installed new rollers
reassembled remainder of dryer
if you are at all mechanically inclined, it is a simple job

removed the top of the dryer exposing the drum and belt.Also the bottom acess door was removed.The rollers were easy to get to from the bottom and from the back.Had to remove ducting from the rear of the dryer to expose the upper most roller shaft nut.Loosened the nuts from the back making the wheels come from the bottom.Also had to loosen the support bracket holding the weight up on the bottom roller assy.Replaced the belt by rapping it around the drum before installing the roller wheels.This project was easy except trying to hold the upper shaft in place while putting the nut back on the shaft.This would be much easier with a second person.Thanks for making this a nice experience and easy fix !

Disconnect dryer.
Unscrew the two screws that hold the door actuator assemby.
replace broken spring.
Screw the the two screws back.

This was rather easy to fix. I had never opened the dryer before but had a serviceman come out so I knew that you can pop the top of the dryer off by putting a flat edge screwdriver in between the top and bottom and popping up. You must remove the screws from the lint dryer before so the top comes off. The piece to replace had two screws and that was it. To get a repairmen from Sxxrs where we purchased it 15 years ago they charge a flat fee of $75 just to come out. That does not include the repair just a fee to come and tell you how much more it would cost to fix it. I ordered the part for less than $5 and $12 more for 2-3 day delivery! What a bargin! I was back drying clothes 15 minutes after the part arrived! Very happy that the part is still being made!

Removed 2 screws holding the lint trap on top, popped up the top and lifted back, removed 2 screws on the inside top of front panel, lifted front off and set aside then reached under the drum and pulled tension pully to loosen the belt, and removed the drum. popped the motor clams off and then used 2 adjustable wrenches to grasp the nuts at the front and back to remove blower fan. When you look for the area in back to loosen the blower fan you may notice the nut that you are looking for is actually part of the fan and is plastic looking rather than metal. I did have to take off the back cover to the blower fan to tighten it back up.I had seen instructions that the blower fan would have a 3/8 hole in the back of it to loosen it,but mine did not. I assembled it and it works great with my new motor and rollers. I received my part in 2 days, very happy

After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.

The first thing was to remove the front cover
and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.

At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.

Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.

(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)

I replaced a bad thermostat