1106507822 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

1 Vice grips are required to remove the fan/blower. Clamp on inside of dryer so you can remove the blower/fan assembly

Recommend 10" or larger 14" will definitely do the job

2. Blower/fan is reverse threaded when facing the back of the dryer. That is how I broke mine. Turn clockwise to loosen - feels very unnatural

3. If you have to replace the 5 & 6 electrical connectors, you have to have a barrel crimper for insulated terminals - IWISS SN-02C RATCHET TERMINAL CRIMPING PLIER TOOL, 24-14AWG is a good example

lifted top section of dryer
removed front dryer panel
removed drum belt and tensioner
removed both drum rollers
cleaned both roller axles
installed new rollers
reassembled remainder of dryer
if you are at all mechanically inclined, it is a simple job

This was rather easy to fix. I had never opened the dryer before but had a serviceman come out so I knew that you can pop the top of the dryer off by putting a flat edge screwdriver in between the top and bottom and popping up. You must remove the screws from the lint dryer before so the top comes off. The piece to replace had two screws and that was it. To get a repairmen from Sxxrs where we purchased it 15 years ago they charge a flat fee of $75 just to come out. That does not include the repair just a fee to come and tell you how much more it would cost to fix it. I ordered the part for less than $5 and $12 more for 2-3 day delivery! What a bargin! I was back drying clothes 15 minutes after the part arrived! Very happy that the part is still being made!

Before beginning, unplugged dryer. 1) Used putty knife at each front corner of top to pop lid loose from clips. 2) Removed hex screws at back of control panel to allow lid to tip open. 3) With lid opened, removed hex screw from inside-top of each side to allow front to pull open from side panels and access door switch easily. 4) Removed clip that holds retaining wires from top. 5) Pulled wire from each side of door switch. 6) Removed switch assembly using Phillips screwdriver to remove two screws mounting switch at top of door opening. 7) Removed broken actuator spring and replaced. 8) Reversed process to reassemble.

Disconnect dryer.
Unscrew the two screws that hold the door actuator assemby.
replace broken spring.
Screw the the two screws back.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

pulled out the old one and put in the new one. I wish all repairs were this easy. I also had to reattach the vent hose, which is annoying because I'm the only one who fits behing the dryer without disconnecting the gas. I never touch the gas related parts.

I appreciate how easy your website made it, to get the parts, I would recomend this site and will be back myself.

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

took the cstch reciever out, with my fingers, pushed the new one in, snap lock fit.......couldn't be better, like repairing a model T ford.......

the part fit perfectly, it just snaped right into place.

After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.

The first thing was to remove the front cover
and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.

At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.

Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.

(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)

Just slipped it on, it was very simple. My dry cylces were reduced. Worth the $15 I spent to get the part!!!!

Got my parts very quickly.
Popped out the old door latch with a screw driver and pressed in the new one.
Very simple.
Thanks Parts Select.