11096561210 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I followed the video offered by your website and it was very informative and right to the point. Was very brief and easy to follow. I ordered the parts before 10:00am and received the parts the next day with the regular shipping.Very good website others need to benchmark you. I will use your service for future repairs and refer you to others.

My dad was ready to spend $2000 on a new washer/dryer (he has to have a matching set!). Anyway, his dryer would not generate heat. A google search turned up partselect.com, which walked me through the procedure to see what we needed.

It turned out to be a simple to replace $25.00 part! The dryer is drying as if it was brand new. Saved $1,975. Hehe.

Thanks, partselect!

My dryer timer would run through the heat cycle and move in to the cool down cycle. It would not move past the cool down cycle, and would not shut off automatically. I tried replacing the Thermal Fuse first, since I'd already removed the back panel to diagnose the problem. There was no change - the dryer did not shut off automatically. Next, I removed the back cover to the timer console. The Timer Power Resistor looks like a black circle and a rectangle joined together. It was attached to the back of the on/off switch by a single hex head screw, and the resistor has orange and black wires attached. The replacement Power Resistor doesn't look like the resistor that was in my dryer. It is rectangular in shape with 2 male spade connectors. I attached the orange and the black wires to the new power resistor. I started the dryer and it went through a full heat/cool down cycle, and automatically shut off with the end of cycle buzzer sounding. Total part replacement time was about 10 minutes.

Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.

with both hands

Dryer would not start when the start switch was pushed. I was advised by the local repair shop to replace the "push to start switch" and the "thermal fuze". I unplugged the dryer and removed the back dryer casing which took all of 3 minutes. I removed the start switch and thermal fuze using directions on the whirlpool parts forum. This took maybe 5 minutes. I replaced with the new parts and put the casing back on the dryer. The entire project took 15 minutes. The dryer works perfectly. 34 USD for parts and shipping instead of 600 for a new dryer. Easy to identify the parts needed using the model number and the parts arrived the next morning I will use this company again for sure!

pressed clip into hole on top of front panel. first remove two philip screws that hold filter so you can lift top up.

Half of my pulley was broken off so there were no wrench flats to take it off. I was able to remove it using Channel Locks and the 7/16 wrench shown in the video.

Hint: Use a one gallon ice cream bucket to hold up the drum while connecting the belt. It makes it much easier and gives you more clearance.

Replaced the thermastat first, then the cutoff switch, still the same, I then replaced the thermister, and still have the problem.

removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!

Repair went well, but my switch only had one contact on the non common end. The new switch had two contacts. One is for operation with lid open and one for lid closed. Make sure to connect to the lid closed contact and the common on the other end and leave the lid open contact unused.

This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner sprung to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..

I disassembled the dryer once to clean the motor and compartment. After reasembly, the problem persistes. I ordered the motor and the second diasasssembly was accomplished in 10 minutes and the entire job took 45 minutes and the dryer was running like new. Tip- Leave the motor secured while removing the blower fan.

I order a new belt and I watched the video instructions on how to replace it, follow the instructions, removed the top and took out the dryer tumbler or can, found a broken idler pulley, order a new one, got it in about two days, replaced all the parts and now its working like a new dryer, I called several repair shops and I got estimates from $65 to $150, I spend less than $35 and it took me about 35 minutes to install and I got it fixed..

Looking at the schematics, it wasn't clear exactly where the motor was located. I took off the rear panel thinking I could get to the motor through the blower. Realizing that was a no-go, I did some web searching and found that the lint screen chute had to be unscrewed, the top had to be lifted to gain access to the top 2 screws holding the front panel to to the main body. The barrel was then dropped and the rib belt removed from around it so I could set it aside. The clips were removed from the front and the back of the motor to gain access to the blower shaft. .The motor shaft is screwed into the blower shaft but it took me a while to figure out how to grab the blower shaft( made of hardened plastic?) with an adjustable wrench while torquing the end of the shaft with a (3/4"?) socket wrench. Access to the rear was rough, but getting the motor out an back in was easy. The spring tensioner for the belt was the next hurdle. With the s-curve facing outward and clipped to the base, the belt with the rib side wrapped around the barrel, the belt was slid between the roller and the tensioner bracket and wrapped around the motor drive rib side inward. I had to take the old motor to kind of prop up the barrel so I could at least see the tensioner and motor interface. I had to do a balance trick where I held the barrel up while centering it to the belt and the rear panel while ensuring the cloth seal was seated to the outside of the chamber. The front panel went on, and the front cloth seal was seated by spinning the barrel. The rest was just a matter of reversing the steps. Tons of lint/dust is probably what crashed this motor. Disassembling the front and the back allowed a thorough clean up - vacuuming and wipe down. Should go another 10 years/