79691362910 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Initially replaced igniter. Didn't think it was bad though. Read other suggestions on another website. None were the correct diagnosis for my situation. And when I figured it out they did not offer correct part. The dryer thermistor temp sensor (probe sensor) is what I replaced. Found it on Parts Select. I did replace other parts also. But that's the one that ultimately was the issue.
Was not hard at all if one is even a little handy.

Watched a You Tube video

I assumed this was a belt problem. Ordered the belt and followed the excellent screw by screw instructional YouTube provided by PartSelect. In fact, I probably would not have attempted the repair, until I watched the video and was reassured that I could do it. When I got the front panel off, the problem was obvious. There was a dishrag stuck in the blower. Didn't need the belt, but the video was sure worth the price of the part (~$17). Mr. Appliance charges $109 to DIAGNOSE the problem! This was way easier than dealing with them, especially during a pandemic near the holidays.

I put the dryer information into my browser and found PartSelect had the exact replacement part I needed. I ordered the part and it came is just a few days. I removed the part from the excellent packaging, removed the cracked lint filter from the dryer, replaced it with the new lint filter and done!
Among things I've successfully repaired, this was the easiest and best job I've ever done. Quick, Easy and painless.
Thanks for asking!

Ordered a new one and installed it in a matter of seconds.
Not difficult!

When manufacturer confirmed the part would fit without an adapter, it was the easiest DIY task ever undertaken.

I replaced the thermistor, then the gas ignitor which were easy to get to once the drum was out. The gas is still not igniting so not sure where to go from here. Putting the drum belt back on took some muscle. But then I'm 71.

This was all pretty straightforward with the helpful video hosted on this site. The only issues I ran into was I had a seized screw that stripped and I had to drill it out and replace it. Also, I had to disassemble the front and rear a little bit further than what is shown in order to install the new roller axles. I was pleasantly surprised that I did not have to worry about the triangular retainers, because the replacement rollers/axles use an improved metal retaining pin. Overall, I'm very happy and the dryer is nearly silent now. It was a bit of a challenge but I took my time and gave myself breaks throughout the morning rather than banging my head against the wall.

Viewed YouTube video form parts select to take dryer apart. Very easy to do if you just follow instructions in the video. Nothing too hard to do. Of note the 4 pack roller assembly is a whole unit, so you’ll have to replace the stem unit the old rollers use and not just replace the roller wheels like in the video. That is a different part number from LG. The front 2 are pretty straight forward to unbolt and replace. The back 2, especially one on the left is tighter clearance even with a wrench. If you’re able to pull whole dryer out and take back off, it’s an easier to get the one on the back left.
Also replaced belt just because i had it open, I replaced thermistor previously after getting a Te5 code about a year ago so that helped in taking it apart.
Would recommended doing it all since you’ll have it open.
Once replaced, everything ran again.

Repair was easy, but the part does not come with directions. It is pretty self explanatory if you are used to taking things apart and fixing them. Otherwise there are YouTube videos you can pull up. Dryer runs like it is new again though and it was way cheaper than buying a new dryer.

Exchange

Part showed up in 2 days and repair took 2 min. Very easy. Thank you!!

With a thin flat screwdriver I was able to pry out the old door switch, I replaced it with the new door switch, pushed back in dryer and so far is working since I installed a month ago.

Called LG on the phone and they gave the button presses for diagnostics, which then gave the HST code, saying the Humidity sensor was bad.
The part was described as the Humidity sensor module. Actually it's just the wire leads for the sensor which must be electronic and only accessible by disassembling the dryer. There were descriptions about cleaning the wires, perhaps because some people use dryer sheets which cause a buildup on the wires and prevent them from doing their job. I use wool balls and have no buildup on my wires and replacing them did not fix the sensor, because the module accessible inside the dryer is not the moisture sensor, but only the wire leads.

There’s all sorts of videos on it I watched. It was actually very simple