79691362910 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Able to complete install but the lint housing does not allow the lint screen to slide down completely due to the housing lacking the appropriate cut outs/notches. The slit becomes too narrow for the lint screen so it protrudes from the sides. The delivered product does not match the image on the item description, which shows the proper cut outs/notches that should fully accommodate the lint screen.
I'm having a similar experience with this reviewer:

John S - February 14, 2022
Verified Purchase
Lint screen housing
The housing will not allow the lint screen to set completely down because the housing lacks the proper cut outs causing the lint screen to set 1-1.5 inches too high. I was able to cut out the required notches in the plastic so that the lint screen would fit. The picture shows the proper notches but the delivered product didn’t have the notches and does not match the picture.

Will return the item and keep searching for the correct lint housing.

Removed top of dryer
I carefully removed wires from back of control panel
Removed control panel
Most of screws hold cabinet together
Unhook wire from light on door and sensor on the front panel.
Remove the front door and panel together
I changed both front rollers on front panel
If you have to change rear rollers lift tub up by belt
Remove screws on back of dryer that will let you lift out inside rear panel that holds the rear rollers
Change rollers and just revearse procedure to put back together

I did not do the repair I hired the propane company to do it . It was too difficult for me.they removed top & front of dryer .removed & replaced gas orfice reinstall all parts that were removed. Install and test dryer IT cost me $91.59 for labor & $24.65 for the part & shipping.If the dryer had a side access near the gas valve it could have saved me the cost of labor. I could have done it myself.

Handed the parts to my son-in-law he's very mechanically inclined had the job done in 20 minutes

After replacing the locker assembly (female) on the machine, The door strike(male) was hitting well below the locker. I realized that the screws holding the door hinge were loose. Tightening them brought the strike up far enough to engage the locker, although it still hits a bit low. That might have been the real problem, not the latch, so check the hinge before you order the latch parts.

I followed the video instructions that were supply on your site

I took the dryer apart. You have to take the top off, then the door/front off. There are wires & other parts that need to be unhooked as well. A flat tip screw driver can be used to pop the top off. The screws were all phillips. Once you take that all apart, then you can access the drum. I bought the belt because I thought that was what was wrong with it. Turned out to be hair in the drum rollers. Took those all off & put wheel grease on each of them, put new belt on (since I had it LOL) then put it all back together. Make sure everything is lined up correctly otherwise you will have to take it apart & reline (which I had to do)
I am a 49yr old female & was able to do this repair on my own!

We replaced the drum belt and the rollers. Everything was very easy and straightforward but took a fair bit of time due to the extensive disassembly required. We followed the video available on the website for the belt replacement, which was very clear and accurate. Unfortunately, the rollers we received used a different attachment method than the OEM rollers which are depicted in the video provided. Instead of attaching from the front with a triangular plastic lock washer, they had to be attached via a nut on the back side of the roller. This required some improvisation and was a little more involved. For the rear rollers, we actually had to remove another panel to access the nuts, which was not described in the video. Nevertheless, we managed to get everything replaced and the dryer is working like it was the day we bought it.

This has taken days to get the updated parts from another major international supplier. You can't just buy the screen or the housing - you have to get an updated set. Unfortunately they were not immediately available from PartSelect.

The lint screen that this company sent was 3x too large. I called to return/exchange it. No one available - go to customer service.
I went to customer service and entered my email address and the order number (while I was looking at the original order1). The email and order number could not be found.

I am still waiting to hear from someone from the company to get a RMA and return label! Will NEVER use this company again.
Vivien Joebchen

Followed the repair video provided in the order confirmation email. Was easy.

First of all, I watched the videos provided by this site. I am not a professional appliance technician.

My dryer is mounted on top of my LG washer.
I ordered appliance moving leg pads. And I ordered a small but effective jack to raise up both units to insert pads under the feet.
Now I could slide the stacking unit away from the wall.

I set out my drill, Phillips head bits, pliers, a socket set, a small crescent wrench, and my phone with videos.
I also used a short ladder to get up to the top of the dryer.
Having the dryer mounted on top of the washer was actually perfect for working from the front of the dryer cabinet.
Watch out for very sharp edges. You can wear gloves. But I found gloves to be an impediment to feeling the parts.

My replacement parts:
1) four drum support rollers with shafts. I replaced the roller and shafts together. The new rollers would not fit on the old shafts.
2) drive belt
3) two moisture sensors. Located on the lint filter housing.

Here is how it went:

I spent six hours in one day to disassemble, vacuum, reinstall parts, and reassemble. My dryer is a steam unit, so the control panel electronics are on the right side rather than on the front panel as in the video I watched. In order to replace the drum rollers and their mounting shafts I just needed to pull the drum rear mounting bracket forward just enough to get the small crescent wrench on the nut behind the roller and my socket wrench on the top of the roller shaft. And off they came.

I tested the dryer with a load of damp bath towels. The motor ran but the drum did not turn. It was then that I realized that I had the drum drive belt on with the wrong side facing the drum. One side of the drive belt is smooth. And the opposite side has parallel grooves. The parallel grooves side needs to contact both the drum as well as the motor pulley. The grooves face away from the tensioner pulley.

So, the next day I spent 90 minutes partially disassembling the dryer enough to get to the drum belt once again. I pulled out the drum again to wrap the drive belt over it in the correct orientation. It is not easy to see the motor drive pulley or the belt tensioner pulley. I did it by feel and watching the videos again. I hooked up the drive belt mostly by feel this time. And I got it done. Now the drier runs very quietly. By the way. No need to remove anything on the back of the dryer.

Pretty satisfying overall.

Followed YouTube video repair process. The only problem is that the door hinge has plastic bushings attached. A couple broke and the parts listing does not show the bushings, nor does the hinge come with them. The door is a bit loose without them. Nonetheless, the repair did the job for now.

Pull off the top and front of the dryer and reached in and replaced the part it was easy. Had to clean all the dryer out real good with from the lint

Initially replaced igniter. Didn't think it was bad though. Read other suggestions on another website. None were the correct diagnosis for my situation. And when I figured it out they did not offer correct part. The dryer thermistor temp sensor (probe sensor) is what I replaced. Found it on Parts Select. I did replace other parts also. But that's the one that ultimately was the issue.
Was not hard at all if one is even a little handy.