11081932511 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

just replaced parys

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

Attempt to start dryer normally. Turn timer dial to high heat setting. Press the Push To Start button. Verify plug is secure in wall outlet. Got to breaker panel to verify breaker is not tripped. (Sometimes breaker may trip but visually appear no to be tripped). Reset breaker to maker sure breaker is in the on position. Attempt to start dryer normally. If dryer did not start proceed. Get a multimeter. Remove plug from wall outlet. Slide dryer from wall. Remove exhaust duct from bottom of dyer. Use multimeter to check voltage at wall outlet. Verify 120 to ground and 208 between hot legs. Remove rear cover if main dryer unit and rear of control unit. Connect the multimeter to rear of control panel rear of push button. Turn meter to ohm setting. Push the start button to see if there is continuity. Release the button to verify no continuity. Next major part of curcuit is the thermal fuse. Look on lower left area of dryer. With multimeter in Ohm mode place the leads on the light blue wires. If no continuity replace thermal fuse

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

Dryer works - thanks to a new fuse. Glad I tried this before just buying a new one. Video for my model indicated the fuse was located in the back and actually it was difficult to get to in the front. So extra time was wasted trying to get to fuse in the back. Thank you for the part!

I made sure air vent was clear and clean. I removed front panel of dryer unit, located fuse, removed wires, tested fuse with ohm meter, which was defective. Tested new fuse placed back in dryer reattached wires. Cleaned out inside of dryer, replaced front panel. Now works like new.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

There was no heat but the dryer would operate properly in all other functions. I checked the ignitor (gas dryer) with a meter and it was okay. I traced the circut back and ended up at the thermal fuse and it was "open" I jumped it out and the dryer started to work. I knew the problem was the thermal fuse but more importantly why did it blow. Further investigation showed excessive lint in the duct. Needed to take the exhaust system apart and clean out the lint. also replaced the flexible dryer (too difficult to clean) and to make sure that I didn't over work the high/low thermostat and would be doing this repair again in the near future I replaced that also. Be careful and do not jump out the fuse and use the dryer as this will cause a fire. I did it to prove the problem only... Dryer works well again and we will probably get another 5 years out of it!

Al
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It took me 5 minutes to find PartSelect's site, read the comments about the most common problems and identify the solution. The exploded views were a great assist, as it wasn't obvious where the thermal fuse is located or which access panel to remove.

It took less than 5 minutes to remove the rear panel and install a temporary jumper to verify the blown fuse was the only issue. With the new fuse in hand, replair took another 5 minutes.

A word of caution to anyone replacing is fuse - I found that the exhaust vent pipe to the wall was full of lint and nearly blocked. This is a potential fire hazard. While enough air was passing through the flapper vent to make it look like it was OK, the exhaust resistance is what caused the overheating and made the fuse blow.

I spent more time cleaning out the vent pipe than replacing the fuse, for a total of 25 minutes. I strongly urge all dryer owners to physically inspect the exhaust duct annually.

PS Drying time has decreased by 30-40% since the repair.

First I pulled the dryer away from the wall, after which I disconnected the power and dryer vent. I then removed the eight screws holding on the back of the dryer. Next, I disconnected the two wires to the part and unscrewed the mounting screw. I then removed the bad part, replaced it with the new part, and reversed the above steps.

How I did the repair is of little importance. What is important and impressive is the level of service your company provides. You must have a fantastic system in place and a team who has bought into the concept of providing the best customer service possible. I have been a Manager for over 15 years and would go home proud and would sleep well every night if my team offered the service your team does. Please share this feedback with them and take the time to shake the hand of everyone who was in the chain of service of this order. Smile and tell them Russell C says well done and thank you. Your team made my life easier and I feel appreciated as a customer of your Company.

I studied the wiring diagram on the back of the dryer. I diagnosed a bad thermal fuse (no continuity). Found the part online at Part Select. The part came a few days later and I was back in business. Great Service.

Followed the Video on how to replace,

I remove the back panel then look for thermal fuse.. so easy to replace.. thank you so much ..

With the instructional video the repair was very easy.