11065232610 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Had a problem holding drum in place and putting front back on. Got it together and drum wouldn't turn. Had to tear it a part again and belt had turned.

My wife took the back off the dryer, took 2 screws out of each side of the heating element caseing, unplugged heating element. Plugged in new element, put caseing back in place replaced 2 screws, put dryer cover back on, finished. Works great again.

I made sure dryer was unplugged and I removed back to expose the heating element canal on lower right side. Removed two screws and two electical connections. Pulled the element down and out. Used a flathead screwdriver to slowly pry the thermo senor off the heating element assy. There are no screws here just a small metal piece to hold it in place. Discarded the old element and reversed the above procedure. The best part of this is the part arrived quickly and I saved $50-75.

Slam Dunk, in less than 1 hour I replaced the element myself I saved 100.00 over a repair man and 400.00 over a replacement.

Turn off the breaker to the unit or unplug. Disconnect the 3 wires, 2 hex screws keep the element in place. it swivels or slides out. keep the thermal fuse from the old unit, it disconnects from the spade lug and pops off.

I watched the video on replacing the belt and it was amazingly as easy as the video described. I had asked my son if he could replace it if I couldn't and I didn't have to ask him. If you are only moderately ept at repairing anything you could do this. I was waiting on it when it finally arrived and in no time I had it replaced and my dryer back working. Being a woman I like it when I can repair something myself and not have to rely on someone else to do it.

The repair was pretty simple.
1. unplug dryer.
2. use a med. flat screw driver with some cloth wrapped around the blade as not to chip the paint surface. From the front of the dryer,
carefully pry open the top surface of the dryer. There are 2 points to lift, about 3" from the right side and 3" from the left side.
3. The top will open like the the hood of a car, lift gently, you might have to move the dryer out if you can (if you are on a flexible service connection).
4. Unclip the push bottom elec. switch.
5. Carefully remove 2 sheet metal screws on the top left and top right (from the inside of the dryer cabinet. These hold the front of the dryer in place. You have to remove the front of the dryer to get the drum out. I can't believe that these 2 flimsy screws hold the dryer together.
6. Pull the front panel off, tipping it forward. More on this later, it's really important!!
7. Remove the drum, it's light weight, but bulky.
8. Now you will see the motor assembly and idle pulley.
9. Follow the belt diagram with the replacement belt package.
10. It gets a little tricky to get the drum back in because there's a bit of spring tension on the drum from the belt.
11. You're ready to re assemble. BUT, the next step is really important.
12. Since you have the front panel off, you can get at the lint trap. Yeah, lint. Ever wonder why your favorite Tee shirt gets thinner and thinner? Well, look in the lint trap. I filled a vacum cleaner bag with the hard packed lint.
13. By the way, you have to remove the 2 torx screws that hold the lint trap assembly.
14. Vacuum the whole exhaust pipe while u are at it.
That's it!

I unplugged the dryer and took the back off the appliance.
I looked online to see what the problem probably was. I saw a diagram of where the heating element was. It had two small screws holding the element on. I removed them and detached three wires from the side of it being careful to write down what wire went where.
The part select repair site popped up on an internet search so I ordered the heating element, and the fuse and thermostat and another piece. Some of the wires were loose at other places so I reattached them and tightened them. I think the only part the dryer actually needed was the piece about a foot up from the heating element.It was in the thermal cut off kit that I ordered. After replacing the other three parts, I replaced that and the heat came on. Eureka! I love my cordless screwdriver. It made taking the screws out and reinstalling them a breeze. I did notice on this dryer that it says to only use a metal vent, not foil or plastic as they can be a fire hazard. I bought the dryer for forty dollars on craigslist and have spent about a hundred and fifteen dollars fixing it up including a new dryer belt and door latch. I am looking foward to repairing something else. From a 50 year old lady. It was easier than making biscuits.

Opening the dryer to discover the problem was easy. We put the belt up on a workmate bench - I think this made access better at the bottom. Getting the new belt on past the rear drum seal was ok, the instructions could benefit by including wording describing how to roll the belt flat under the 2 rear drum support pulleys to bring it to the drive motor shaft pulley. The instructions included with the belt had a diagram showing the position of the belt take up idler (the idler was found loose inside the bottom of the dryer), our dryer had a hole in the metal spring clip of the idler arm, so we thought at first that a screw to the chassis had broken - this is not the case the idler pulley is held in place by belt tension, so pulling the spring clip open while feeding the belt would have been useful in the instructions too. Other than those 2 head scratchers the repair was easy and saved us the cost of calling a repairman. Thanks PartSelect.

The replacement was SUPER easy, and way cheaper than a new dryer. Many people will buy a new dryer rather than mess with the hassle of a part. The biggest hassle of this part was the size confinement of the space. Other than that, I feel like I have a brand new dryer!

Pulled Dryer away from wall and unplug. Removed back cover. Used my ohm-meter to check fuse ok. Then checked heater element no continuity. Removed two screws and three wires holding unit in place. Visibly checked coils and found break so I knew that was the problem. Ordered heating element and replaced in reverse order. Solved the problem now have dryer that works again.

It went as I expected opened the back with the nutdriver about 6 screws. And the element waste right infront detached the wires and pulled it out cut myself on the sharp edge but not to bad the only trouble I had was getting the thermostat off the old element

lift top of dryer unscrew the top of the pull out filter from the top of dryer. then unscrew the screws near top on the inside of the front panel and have an old soap container handy to hold up the dryer drum. lift the front panel up for removal and put the old soap container under the drum to keep it from falling out. Then mess around with the idler pulley and look up information under pictures of idler pulley in place with belt in Google to see how the belt fits through it.. Finally replace belt, check front and back of drum to insure proper fit and put the dryer back together to see if all works well. and see if the reason for belt breaking is apparant and more than just old age and use.

First, I printed one of these responses which were excellent and very detailed. The screws connecting the lint slot to the top of the dryer was frozen. Taking the front panel off was difficult because I did not read the instructions I printed out very well. After I took the top off I had a hard time finding the 2 screws located inside on the top of the front panel. They are located to the far right and left at the top. To take off the front panel you have to push it up to release the clips on the bottom, then it comes right off. Taking the drum out was easy. What was difficult was putting the belt on. There wasn't any slack and to put it around the pulley and the drum for me was difficult. After that is was a piece of cake. It works great.

i pop the top of the dryer lose and removed the 2 screws that held the front on and installed the new belt and put it back to gethere