1106012990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.

Good

First only replaced the high temp cut off switch which allowed the element to heat. However, after one heat cycle the switch would not reset. Then changed the thermostat (included in the kit). After tapping the cut off switch lightly to manually reset it, the dryer ran perfectly. Moral of the story: always change all parts included with a repair kit!

Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.

The replacement parts are truly easy to exchange. Everything is located behind the rear panel. A few fasteners needed to be undone. What's really important is another video that explained what should be "checked" when a dryer malfunctions. VERY IMPORTANT viewing. I spent an afternoon going over the front inside and rear of my dryer. I'll probably get another ten years from my dryer thanks to this site data and videos.

I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F

I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!

Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)

To replace the thermostat and heating element, I followed the video from PartSelect.

Before buying the parts, I had already taken my machine apart to clean it and check for lint build up, but there was only a bit of dust, no major blockages. Because the burning smell was metallic, I just had my fingers crossed that replacing the heating element and thermostat would do the trick. It worked!
There is an odd ceramic sort of smell in the first 5 minutes of using the new element but that went away and all is working well at this point.

My components looked slightly different from those on the video; I had fewer wires so I just took photos of everything before I started to make sure I put it all back in the correct place.
I had to watch another video on how to easily remove the thermostat, mine was stuck. I just used a flat head screw driver behind it like a lever and gently pried it off.
It took me about 30 minutes total only because I had to watch a couple of extra YouTube videos due to the differences of my machine. I don’t usually do repairs like this one and wanted to be completely sure I was doing it correctly, but the work/repair itself was super easy.

The lint trap seal was just because mine got damaged when I took it apart to clean it. I just pulled the old one off, made sure the old adhesive was completely removed, (it peeled off like scotch tape), I cleaned it, then I slowly went around the edge of the vent/housing and stuck the new foam seal down. No video required, just common sense.

The dryer stopped heating, it would only blow cold air. I removed the back panel and tested the thermal fuse with a dmm. The fuse was open, so it was bad and I needed a new one. I tested the thermostat and the dmm measured continuity across the terminals, so I thought it was good, bad assumption. I ordered a thermal fuse from partsselect and it came with a thermostat. Like a dummy, I only installed the fuse. The 1st time I ran the dryer the fuse blew again, because the thermostat was bad. So, moral of the story, install both parts.

Unplug unit first.
Took the front cover off the front of dryer below the door.

The online heating element replacement instructions were excellent. The back panel of the dryer was removed by unscrewing 9 screws. The difficulty arose in trying to remove the thermostat from the damaged heating element. My thermostat wasn't connected by screws (the thermostat in the online instructions was). It was much easier to follow the online instructions up until the thermostat removal section, and then remove the thermostat by first removing the heating element from the dryer (connected by two screws), and then using the needle head pliers to gently remove the pliable metal prong that holds the thermostat to the heating element. The metal prong is secured near the top of the thermostat. Once the metal prong is removed, use the pliers to carefully remove the prong that connects the thermostat to one of the two prongs at the bottom of the heating element. The thermostat and the flat wiring connected to the thermostat are one piece. The thermostat is connected to the heating element by the pliable metal prong and the delicate flat wiring attached to the bottom of the thermostat. Reattach the thermostat and other wires to the new heating element, reattach the back of the dryer, and your dryer is blowing hot air again. Upon removing the old heating element is was clear it was damaged as the top three rows of heating coils were burnt. I'm on my fifth load of drying since yesterday's repair. Thanks.

Removed the dryer's back panel and took a look. Had no idea what to do next, so I read up on it. Partselect was extremely helpful to me, the exploded views with the part numbers called out were particularly helpful. So I determined it was the thermal fuse. Unscrewed the screw holding in the fuse and disconnected the electrical supply. New fuse went in really easily. Job took a lot longer than it had to cause since I was in there, I cleaned out the dryer really good.

Why the fuse blew was interesting: had an extension cord routed over the dryer, well it was situated such that it caused the timer knob to bind up. Apparently, the dryer ran all night because of this and blew the fuse. So don't obstruct the knob or you will be replacing a thermal fuse!

Dryer ran with no heat. Replaced the Thermal Fuse and when that didn't fix the problem discovered the element was burned. Easy fix except the F-disconnect fitting broke when I tried to remove it and male fitting on the heating element is 0.375 and all I could find were 0.250 F-disconnect fittings. I finally found a supplier who had a 0.375 fitting and the repair took 10 minutes after that. The online videos at PartSelect are excellent.

I watched the video or I would have likley just called a repair man. It took longer to clean behind the dryer than to install the new thermal fuse. After taking the back off the dryer is was as simple as changing a fuse. Dryer works like new for about $20 bucks and we avoided the hasle of getting a repair man, especially since we live in the country. Thanks for having a web site that is so easy to use and full of good information.