MUE15MNAGW International Dryer - Instructions

Turned off gas and unplugged dryer
1) Removed bottom front panel
2) lifted top panel up like a car hood
3) Removed door springs
4) disconnected electrial connections to door unit, removed door unit
5) removed drum, scraped old felt from drum
6) glued new felt with a very strong glue (nanoglue or gorilla glue, same thing), let it dry overnight
7) secured back inside panel, replaced drum and put dryer back together.

Took off back cover, thermostat was easily identified because of photos I've seen on website. Took 2 connectors off, removed 2 screws and removed old thermostat. That was pretty much it!

NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.

We tried replacing the door switch first, still didn't start. Next we tried the thermal fuse and it turned on and has worked ever since.

After changing all the rollers in the dryer (which didn't fix the problem) I decided to take apart the blower. Sure enough, that was the problem. As the dryer heated up, the damaged wheel would swell and start rubbing the housing. I replaced both and fixed the problem. The repair was pretty easy, since I had taken the dryer apart several times replacing the rollers.

popped out old female clasp on dryer itself with screwdriver, undid 2 screws on dryer door and door handle with phillips screwdriver, popped in new male clasp part, put door knob back on and put the two screws back in door and it was all set to go. Less than 15 minutes to do. Better than new and wife is happy. No more duct tape holding door closed now.

My 11 year old grandson and I did the repair together. He had a blast and I did too. First we removed a bunch of screws that got us no closer to getting the machine apart than when we started. Then I remembered from the last time I had the machine apart that there are two screws just below the door, angled as not to be visable unless you know where to look. Once we removed those the from came off. We removed the wires for the door light and heat sensor, remembering the order of the wires for later reinstallation. Then we undid the bolts holding down the top. Once the top was removed we took off the belt and removed the drum. We used the retainer pliers to remove the retainer ring from the first roller. We removed the roller and also the shaft as this roller was the noise maker and the shaft was not in reusable condition. We installed a new shaft, roller washer, roller, another roller washer and then the retainer ring. We repeated the same process on the other roller, although we did not replace the shaft as it was in good condition. It turned out I did not need to order the shaft washers as the rollers came with washers. Oh well, its not a good job unless you have parts left over when you are done. Once we replaced the rollers we commenced reinstallation. But first we had to google for diagram of the proper belt installation, which we found and that got the drum and belt installed properly. Thankd god for the internet. Once we had the drum installed we put the machine back together in the opposite order we took it apart. An operational test showed we did the job right, no more squeaking. The only injury was my grandson cut his thumb right after I gave him the speech about watching where your hand is going to end up when that bolt breaks free. It broke loose and into the metal bracket went his thumb. Oh well it was a good lesson and it was not a bad cut. All in all a good repair.

Piece of cake. Used flat screwdriver to pry out female part on cabinet side, same with the male part on door. Every new replacement part was tight and operated like new. Thanks Part Select, you'll be forever on my list of online parts buying.

I took out screws holding top to dryer & raised the top & proped it up to gain access to inside of the dryeeer drum. I then inatalled the new baffle & secured it with 2 screws. It would have been better if the part came with new screws.It was hard to determine which was the right screws for this application.

Removed one screw and took out old broken door strike, replaced with new door strke and put screw back in. Only took two three days to get the part. The dryer is as good as new!

I troubleshot the repair using the repair help section from Parts Select. It made finding the problem a snap. I then removed the four wires and two screws that held the heating element in place. Removed two screws that held thermal fuse in place and replaced. By accomplishing the repair myself I saved well over a hundred dollars.

Took off the lower front panel, removed duct piece from filter to blower fan, removed two screws and two wires to thermostat in exhaust ducting, then replaced thermostat with new one. Very easy job and everything worked like new when I reassembled it.

Removed the dryer front, then detached the retainer ring holding the blower wheel in place. Set the new blower wheel, attached the new ring retainer and placed the dryer front back in place. Thank you for the low prices - I searched on-line at 3 sites and you were the best price available.

This was fairly easy, I have had the dryer front off before. Unplug dryer from electrical outlet. Pull dryer away from wall. Remove the dryer door, open dryer door there are 2 phillips screws on dryer door hing, remove these crews then lift gently and remove door, across from these screws, where dryer door closes into face cover of dryer remove 2 more phillips screws. From top of face cover, pull out front of face cover and lift to remove face cover of dryer. On each side of dryer on the front, after removing the front cover is a 5/16 bolt, remove these and pull off retaining bracket with a twisting motion. You now can lift the top of the dryer up. You can now see the barrel drum. Rotate barrel by hand so the broken baffle is on top. Remove two 5/16 bolts, and replace new baffle in place. Reassemble in reverse order of disassemble.

Unplugged the unit
Removed door and two clips that hold front panel on (6 Philip crews)
Then removed front panel by hand hold each side of the panel at the top
Of the “U” shape and pulling out ward until it frees it self from the two
Bottom clips.
You can now see a belt that is no longer tight around the drum
When I tried to put the belt back on I noticed the idler pulley was flopping around and I would need to replace it .That where you guys saved me.
Your exploded model and parts list made it easy to see exactly what parts I
Needed to order.
The rest gets a little tricky there is another plate that supports the barrel
A couple of clips that hold the top cover in place all of this must be removed
Note the top cover only need to be lifted up an inch or two at the front where the
Two steel clips where and doses not need to be removed to get this panel off that
Supports the barrel.
There are some wires attached to it also I only had to unplug the three that go to
The door safety switch then I was able to rotate it off to the side out of the way
And now the barrel can be lifted out. You can now remove the idler pulley assembly
I used pliers to remove the spring and a crocket wrench to remove a bolt that holds
The bracket that also should be replaced due to ware at the idler pulley barring pin
The tricky part is putting it all back together again. To explain this I would need to Wright a book. It takes a lot of good common sense. I was proud of how I reached
Around from each side of the motor and by feel alone and get the belt around
The motor pulley and the idler pulley that keeps the belt tight around the barrel
Makes me think I should have been a repairman.

This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site.
1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.
2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.
3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.
4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.
5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.
6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.
7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)
8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.

It's simple.