YIED7200TW10 Inglis Dryer - Instructions

1. Unplug or turn off circuit breaker to dryer. 2. Remove two screws on the back of dryer that secure the dryer case top. 3. Slide the dryer case top to the rear of dryer and then lift to remove. 4. Electronic Control Board is located in the left side front corner, remove the three screws holding the Control Board and cover. 5. Unplug all wiring from Control Board and remove the one screw holding the board to the metal cover. 6. Reassemble with new Control Board in reverse order. 7. May you be blessed with dry clothes ever after.

Excellent. Pulled top cover an exposed the control board. Replaced it just like a piece to a puzzle.

Disassembled and tested each part with a multi-meter. Found that the thermostat and fuse were bad. Replaced parts and it is working again.

I ordered a Maytag side vent kit, #12002641, I received a part #2003961.The kit had 2 vent pipes that were about 4" x 24" and an 4" Ell. $105.00. Both vent pipes were too long. I was desperate to get my new dryer installed, so I took the vent pipes to my cutoff saw and made the fit. I then found the right part PS2003058, on your website at a price of $36.22.

The design of my dryer is a bit different from the video on PartSelect - but it is very close. And if you watch the really good video on PartSelect plus a few others on Youtube you can figure out how Samsung in general designs the different components. You can fix this yourself definitely.

Cost of part to fix - about $50.
Repairman - didn't even ask. Would probably be $300-400.
Cost of replacement $1,000.

I rated the repair "A bit difficult" only because this is the first time I have ever repaired an appliance. If I were to repair this one again, I'd rate it as Easy.

I'm really thankful for the PartSelect video. This makes DIY repairs possible.

Thanks.

I removed the dryer top and saw that the belt was intact. (I had suspected the belt or something stuck in the exhaust fan or somewhere.) I watched a few youtube videos and took off the rest of the top plates and front door and inner structure that held the barrel. After i inspected and cleaned out the fan blades and exhaust areas, I looked at the pulley rollers (motor and idler rollers). The idler roller looked a little melted and chewed up. I replaced it with the new assembly. Also replaced the belt. Putting the barrel and new belt back on was harder for me than the videos indicated because the spring was very tight and the area to put my hands was small and didn't give me enough leverage. I eventually got someone to give me the third hand pulling the idling roller a little further over and the belt was back on. It didn't take me long to put the whole dryer back together. It is running fine now.

These are not instructions as much as warning that although it is a one-person job, the idler pulley assembly is not as easily manipulated with the barrel there. Doing the fix was straightforward: one screw holds it in place. The men in the videos seemed to have no problem with easily replacing the belt, but I needed help with the tight spring. Perhaps now that I've done it once, I could figure out how to reach around the barrel and yank the roller enough to replace the belt, but with the extra hand it took seconds and was super easy.

I'll make this quick. To access the motor you need to take half of the drier apart. I cut a access door on the side where the motor is with a small electric saw. It gave me clear access to the motor. You still need to take the front cover off to remove the blower wheel . One more thing, make sure to have the belt back on when testing, otherwise the motor wont start. It took me about an hour and 15 minutes

Ordered part on 8/24/22. Received wrong part twice now. It is 9/10/22 and I am waiting for the third. Right part number on package but it contains the wrong part. Beyond mad!

Removed top of dryer, control panel, front (door) panel. Removed screw holding heating element and housing assembly in place, and removed wiring connections. Attached wiring to new heating element and housing assembly, installed screw to hold in place, replaced front (door) panel, control panel, and top of dryer.

Took off the top and took out 3 screws that held the board in. Unplugged all the connectors and plugged the new board in and put cover back on board and put the screws back in. And put top on.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

remove top of dryer,remove dryer door, then remove front of dryer themostat is in front on exhaust duct has one white and one yellow wire two screws hold it in . Door switch is a push in connection with a three wire connector.

This was a simple repair. Removed the small access panel where the vent pipe comes through, the roller is right there. Unscrewed the support roller bolt, looking for all the pieces that had broken and fallen inside the housing of the dryer. Using the washers and nut from the old one, put the new roller in place, be aware that you have to lift the drum a little bit to get this new roller in. It could take two people depending on your strength. Tightened down the roller, spin the drum by hand to make sure it was ok, then put the access panel back on and fired it up for a test run.

I had a problem a couple of months ago with the dryer not heating and replaced the thermal fuse after checking the the parts with a voltage meter and the dryer worked fine. When I did the repair I also cleaned all the lint out of the dryer, exhaust, and the vent. It worked fine. A couple of weeks ago my wife commented about how hot the dryer was and it seemed unusual. I realized there was another problem but before I could check it, the dryer stopped heating again. Some time ago, the sensor dry funciton quit working so I just went ahead and changed all the electronic componets, the two on the exhaust tube and the two on the heating tube. I assumed the high limit thermostat failed. After unplugging the dryer, I took the two screws loose on the top backside of the dryer that hold the top in place and removed the top, sliding it back. I removed the four screws holding the control panel in place and rotated the panel forward, then up and out of the way. I removed the four screws along the top of the front panel, then the ones from around the opening on the front, and the front door. There was one screw that held the heating tube. I removed it and the tube slid forward. I took the front wire lose and rotated the tube clockwise to pull it out and took off the back wire and changed out the thermal fuse and thermostat. The exhaust tube was right there in the front and all I had to do was change out the parts on it. Everything went back to gether as easy as it came apart and when I plugged the dryer back in, it worked just like new.

Unplugged the dryer and moved into clear working space. Removed back access panel and exhaust tube, they are connected. Noted the wire connection placement before removing all wires connected to heating element. Removed the one hidden screw securing the element in the very back, cant be seen remove by feel. Then with some force sliding forward removed the heating element. Dissembled heating element housing to revel burned out element, noted wire connections before unplugging and removing old element. Reassembled all parts as they were removed and starting using the dryer.