YIED7200TW10 Inglis Dryer - Instructions

1. Unplug or turn off circuit breaker to dryer. 2. Remove two screws on the back of dryer that secure the dryer case top. 3. Slide the dryer case top to the rear of dryer and then lift to remove. 4. Electronic Control Board is located in the left side front corner, remove the three screws holding the Control Board and cover. 5. Unplug all wiring from Control Board and remove the one screw holding the board to the metal cover. 6. Reassemble with new Control Board in reverse order. 7. May you be blessed with dry clothes ever after.

Excellent. Pulled top cover an exposed the control board. Replaced it just like a piece to a puzzle.

I ordered a Maytag side vent kit, #12002641, I received a part #2003961.The kit had 2 vent pipes that were about 4" x 24" and an 4" Ell. $105.00. Both vent pipes were too long. I was desperate to get my new dryer installed, so I took the vent pipes to my cutoff saw and made the fit. I then found the right part PS2003058, on your website at a price of $36.22.

Disassembled and tested each part with a multi-meter. Found that the thermostat and fuse were bad. Replaced parts and it is working again.

I'll make this quick. To access the motor you need to take half of the drier apart. I cut a access door on the side where the motor is with a small electric saw. It gave me clear access to the motor. You still need to take the front cover off to remove the blower wheel . One more thing, make sure to have the belt back on when testing, otherwise the motor wont start. It took me about an hour and 15 minutes

The design of my dryer is a bit different from the video on PartSelect - but it is very close. And if you watch the really good video on PartSelect plus a few others on Youtube you can figure out how Samsung in general designs the different components. You can fix this yourself definitely.

Cost of part to fix - about $50.
Repairman - didn't even ask. Would probably be $300-400.
Cost of replacement $1,000.

I rated the repair "A bit difficult" only because this is the first time I have ever repaired an appliance. If I were to repair this one again, I'd rate it as Easy.

I'm really thankful for the PartSelect video. This makes DIY repairs possible.

Thanks.

I removed the dryer top and saw that the belt was intact. (I had suspected the belt or something stuck in the exhaust fan or somewhere.) I watched a few youtube videos and took off the rest of the top plates and front door and inner structure that held the barrel. After i inspected and cleaned out the fan blades and exhaust areas, I looked at the pulley rollers (motor and idler rollers). The idler roller looked a little melted and chewed up. I replaced it with the new assembly. Also replaced the belt. Putting the barrel and new belt back on was harder for me than the videos indicated because the spring was very tight and the area to put my hands was small and didn't give me enough leverage. I eventually got someone to give me the third hand pulling the idling roller a little further over and the belt was back on. It didn't take me long to put the whole dryer back together. It is running fine now.

These are not instructions as much as warning that although it is a one-person job, the idler pulley assembly is not as easily manipulated with the barrel there. Doing the fix was straightforward: one screw holds it in place. The men in the videos seemed to have no problem with easily replacing the belt, but I needed help with the tight spring. Perhaps now that I've done it once, I could figure out how to reach around the barrel and yank the roller enough to replace the belt, but with the extra hand it took seconds and was super easy.

Removed top of dryer, control panel, front (door) panel. Removed screw holding heating element and housing assembly in place, and removed wiring connections. Attached wiring to new heating element and housing assembly, installed screw to hold in place, replaced front (door) panel, control panel, and top of dryer.

Took off the top and took out 3 screws that held the board in. Unplugged all the connectors and plugged the new board in and put cover back on board and put the screws back in. And put top on.

Ordered part on 8/24/22. Received wrong part twice now. It is 9/10/22 and I am waiting for the third. Right part number on package but it contains the wrong part. Beyond mad!

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

remove top of dryer,remove dryer door, then remove front of dryer themostat is in front on exhaust duct has one white and one yellow wire two screws hold it in . Door switch is a push in connection with a three wire connector.

The lemon that I bought has forced me to open it up at least once a year. Anyone with a #2 phillips screwdriver and a good memory can take the challenge. Youtube has few videos on the same model. Best regards, Jim

IMPORTANT!!! Unplug the unit first!! 1 - Remove two screws on the back of the top of the unit. Pull back a little on the top to release it from underneath the control unit on the front of the dryer (the piece with the dial and buttons). 2 - Remove the four screws from the control unit. They are located at the top of the dryer. Pop off the control unit - don't worry about breaking any wires as there are none. 3 - Remove the front of the dryer by removing the four screws that are NOT used for the door and door latch. I had also removed the door latch and door but I don't think it is necessary to remove them. The front will swing out from the bottom where you can unhook it and remove it. 4 - the heating element is located on the front of the unit, bottom right. Either draw a diagram of the wires or take a picture of them with your cell phone. Smart phones are great for this as you can zoom the picture if necessary. Remove the wires (they just push on but it may take some effort to get them off). It's either one or two of the wires that are not part of the wiring harness and they go from one part of the element to another so don't get excited if these wires fall down - you haven't done anything wrong, they are just loose. The one screw in the front holds the element in (the back of the unit just rests in that hole). Remove the screw and pull the unit out. Put the new element in, hook up the wires before positioning the element. Put the screw back in that holds the element and put the rest of the dryer back in the reverse order.

after removing 2 screws securing top of dry i isolated the humming noise to the electronic board. Dryer would not turn on but drum light would work. 2 screws hold the electronic mount, and 1 screw hold electronic board. all electrical connection on board easily unplugged. connected new board installed in mount with 1 screw and then installed mount with two. plugged in and pressed power switch and electronic timer came up and dry started at the press of cycle start knob. the key to this repair was the stuck relay humming sound being generated by the either the relay or transformer on electronics control board.