NLL113EY0WO Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

This was done to a washer/dryer that is in a closet and was worked on in place and not removed so it was all done through the front. Its a good idea to vacuum the inside out before putting it all back together. 1.Remove all of the screws that hold down the top of the dryer and remove top. 2. Remove the front slanted panel below the controls then Remove the two small black screws holding the plastic inserts on the left and right sides of the controls panel plus the two silver screws that will allow it to drop so that you can access the tabs that hold the front section on. 3. Remove screws holding the front section with the door on. The last two will be tabs at bottom that were hidden by control panel. Unplug connector and remove front. 4. Note how belt is positioned around motor and tensioner before removing belt.(just push tensioner until belt is loose enough to slide off of drum to remove belt). 5.Slide out drum and remove old bearing and replace with new one. Be especially careful tightening the three screws that attach the bearing as they are easy to strip. 6. To remove the bushing at the back of the dryer you will remove the two screws. but you will need to hold the clip on the back of the dryer or it will drop when the screws are removed. When re-installing MAKE SURE not to lose your ball bearing that the drum bearing will rest against. I used a strong small magnet to hold the ball bearing against the back of the nylon cradle bushing so I wouldn't lose it when re-installing the bushing and it worked great. Once the nylon bushing was back in place I lubed it thoroughly and put everything back in reverse order. I usually would not fill out one of these do-it-yourself forms but the instructions that are already listed with this part are completely different from what I encountered up to the actual bearing and bushing replacement. Hope this helps.

Removed top panel from dryer. Unplugged the 2 wires for swithch, rotated swith, and removed. Reversed the process. Put parts back together.

I like to fix , i have time and i just give me the chance to try , and i did it , i wish to pay less for the parts , but was a good feeling when the problem fixed

I turned off the power, unscrewed the 4 screws from the top of the dryer. I then opened it and turned the switch that was in there counterclockwise exactly as utube video said to do. I then took off the two wires from the old switch. The rotary start switch fix right in where the old one was. I put the panel back together, put on the old knob and turned the power back on! It took less than 15 minutes from start to finish! If I can do it anyone can! Joanne Klinkhammer Cecil, Wisconsin

It took longer to vaccume the lint out of the machine than to change the part.

The part replacement is done without any tools.

My wife could have done it

We are a retirement community and when we opened March '07 the company purchased GE washer and dryers to go in our common area laundry rooms for the residents to use. Because of their age, they will often turn the knob counter clockwise and not the right diirection which breaks the device which is not good. With in 3 days of installation they had broken 2 of the new knobs.
But, the ordering was simple, the shipment was fast and the install was quick for the maintenance tech.

Followed the on line instructions.

I followed the video instructions. I did have to run to the hardware store to pick up a torx screwdriver but otherwise the instructions were perfect. I generally hire someone to do repairs, but this was too easy! I highly recommend doing this yourself as it is definitely a time and money saver. The website made ordering easy and the part arrived quickly!

Removed top of dryer, took screws out of back of dryer, pulled drum off front of dryer, removed old belt and slid new one in place. Reattached drum to front and slid belt in place only to find it was the wrong size. Called an appliance repair man, he said happens more ften than not.

Disconnected the power removed 4 screws from top panel. Removed 2 wires, turned switch counter clockwise. remopved switch. Replaced with new switch,connected the 2 wires, put panel back inplace,put screws back in panel,plugged dryer back in. SUPER SIMPLE Total time 5 minutes

Put in the new switch and it starts great. Now that it runs there is no heat. I assume the elements are out.

Scared to do the work myself found this website which gave me basic instructions and access to parts needed. Ordered and made an error called and CS took care of me right away. Fast friendly and will buy from them again. Great service great parts and great people!

Top control panel removed; next used screwdriver to lift up dryer top on each side( the top of dryer is attached by clips on the underside) the dryer front panel has two screws, one on each side of inside front(they are easy to reach and near the top of the inside front panel, after removing these two screws we used screwdriver again to pry off front panel as it is attached also by clips on inside of front panel. At this point there is easy access to the drum where the old belt was removed, new belt put in place; removed small panel on back of dryer to access idler pulley and attached new belt through the pulley; turned the drum a couple of times by hand to check if belt was running true on the drum; problem fixed.

Replaced the start switch.

Depending on the condition of the bearing there are two methods described here to change the bearing, the first (and easiest) is if the bearing saddle was not damaged to the point of not allowing the bearing to lift out of it and the second is for when the saddle is damaged.
There are a few items common to both methods so I will start with them and with the belt release.

Parts Needed
Bearing and Shaft kit. Do not bother replacing just bearing or just shaft, do the kit as it is the bearing/shaft and saddle and comes with new ball bearing and grease.
Belt. if going through all this trouble replace the belt while there.

Tools needed:
8mm open/box wrench
good philips head screwdriver
a stubby philips screwdriver
putty knife or wide flat screwdriver
some duct tape

ACCESS

First, unplug the power to the unit and shut the gas off. You'll be working around the motor and burner so this is needed.
Then using the putty knife or flat screwdriver remove the top panel by depressing the latches in the horizontal seam on the front side approx 2" in from each corner.
remove the panel and set it out of the way.
Now unhook the door sensor wires and mark or store them in a manner so you will remember which side of the switch they plug into.
On each corner approx 6" down there is a philips screw, remove these and tilt the front panel forward (to clear the drum and duct seals) then lift upwards to remove the door panel.
Set this out of the way too.

REMOVE BELT FROM MOTOR

The motor pulley and tensioner are hard to see but can be done blind just by feel, they are on the lower right front side of the unit. Reach in on each side of the motor and with left hand push the tensioner towards the right side while with right hand pulling down on the tensioner spring (its a weak spring) to release it from the metal tab on bottom.
Once this is down the tensioner will move to the left and the belt can be removed from the drive puller easily.

At this point you can slide the belt forward and remove it and slide new belt on if you are only doing a belt replace.
Install procedures will be listed below.

REMOVING DRUM

FOR NON-DAMAGED SADDLE

If the saddle is not damaged you can now jerk up (not too much force) on the rear of the drum and this will pop the shaft bearing end out of the saddle. Then carefully slide the drum forward through the cabinet to a palce you can access it easy.
Remove the shaft and bearing from the drum by removing the three phillips screws whose heads are inside the drum.
Now remove the saddle from the cabinet by removing the 2 bolts (8mm head) that go trough the rear, there is a ball bearing in the saddle that may be useful to save in case you drop the new one and there is a screwplate on exterior rear that will fall when you remove the final bolt.

FOR DAMAGED SADDLE

If the saddle is damaged (distorted) the procedure is a bit different and quite a bit harder, but not awful bad. It adds about 20 to 60 minutes extra (depends on how the screws come out) to the whole job.
First remove the drum from the shaft by unscrewing the three philips head screws from inside the drum and, like in prior method, carefully pull the drum through the front of the cabinet and set it aside.
Then to remove the saddle you may be able to remove the two 8mm head bolts by flexing the plate to the side and loosening each bolt a bit while alternating. However I had to actually move the burner ducts a bit to get at mine as I could not turn the left side bolt.
This is where the stubby screwdriver is needed, there are 4 philips screws whose heads are hidden by the seals on the ducts, by folding the seal back a bit you can access them. I was able to just do the three at the top, left, and lower left and slide the duct a bit to allow wrench access to the bolt. I did not have to remove the lowest screw myself but you may need to.
Always make sure to not bend the tin too much and this will hurt heat movement through the system.
Once you have the saddle removed, rememberi