NLL113EY0WO Hotpoint Dryer

First I unplugged the dryer, then I removed the access panel on the back of the control panel. I removed the wires from the back of the switch...Here is where I messed up. I removed the switch prior to ordering the part, the bad part is the way I removed the part. When you get the new part in you will be able to see how it will be mounted ... Read more to the control panel. I had no idea, so I did what was necessary to remove it. Needless to say, I bent the hell out of the hole that the switch mounts in. In turn, the installation of the new switch did not go as easily as I would have liked. After straightening out some metal and drowning the thing in epoxy, the new switch is installed. I hooked the wires back up on the back of the switch, plug in the dryer, and dry some clothes. Standing victorious over the dryer with beer in hand, not only did I accomplish the mission but I learned my lesson... destructive removal = BAD!

1. Remove power cord from wall outlet. Unlatched the top lid of the dryer by pushing a flat screwdriver under the R & L sides where a metal clip on each side holds the top down.
2. Removed the yellow clip screwed onto the top frame.
3. Removed the front frame of the dryer by unscrewing the two screws holding the front frame on ... Read more – one on either side.
4. Mark w/ an (x) on same side of alignment for the 2 wiring connectors before separating them.
5. Removed the front panel by tilting it forward & lifted to unlatch it from the 2 clips at the bottom of dryer.
6. Unwound the belt encircling the drum by releasing the tension between the tensioner roller & drive pulley. (Its better to remove back access panel at this time & do this at the back since I found it necessary to do this anyway when re-installing the new belt).
7. W/ lifting motion, pulled the drum out from the plastic holder attached to the back of the dryer frame. Guided & completely removed the drum out of the dryer.
8. Unscrewed the 3 screws holding the old big bearing to the back of the drum.
8. Unscrewed the 2 screws & removed the plastic that had held the bearing at back of the frame.
8. Installed the new bearing by screwing it to the back of the drum with 3 screws. Be careful not to strip screws. Used help to hold new bearing in place & aligned w/ screws.
9. From the front, installed the plastic holder to the back of the frame by 2 screws and put the ball bearing in-between holder & the metal strip retainer coming from the back of dryer.
10. Used the grease that came with the kit on the plastic holder & the big bearing at the back of the drum.
11. Replaced w/ new belt then re-inserted the drum back into the body of the dryer frame, w/ lifting motion, re-inserted the bearing into the plastic holder.
12. Putting the belt into the drive & tension pulleys through the back access panel was easy but could be very hard to do if coming from the front.
13. Had to replace the front panel's top felt w/ glides that holds the drum at the front w/ a new one. Really important to pay attention to where the plastic glides excess portion is facing (towards front panel), otherwise the front panel might not fit when you snap it back to place.
14. Removed old felt remnants w/ blade scraper & sandpaper. Used adhesive that came w/ kit. Once tacky, put the new felt w/ glides on & used clamps to hold it in place.
15. Waited for 2 hrs. (watched a movie) then re-installed front panel. Make sure that the drum (front) lid rides on top of the plastic glides.
16. Latched bottom of front panel to the metal clips. Replace the 2 screws back into place holding the front panel.
17. Snapped the wiring connectors in place where the (x) marks align.
18. Lowered the top panel & snapped it back into place
Note: All parts came w/ fast delivery & OEM fit - very satisfied! Took my time & on every chance I cleaned & vacuumed all areas of lint & dirt since the dryer hasn't been serviced for more than 10 years...

About a year ago I had to replace the front sliders. I had thought at the time that I should replace the belt and check the rear bearing, but I was in a hurry, and the wash was backing up, so I didn't do it. Oops. Within 6 months dryer started squeaking. Did I get around to pulling it out, and greasing rear bearing. Nope. Dbl oops. ... Read more r />
Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.

Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.

So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.

Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)

Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.

Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.

Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.

Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.

OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...

Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem

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