DG28A6WSFA Gibson Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- PETER from Fremont, CA
- Parts Used:
- 5303931775
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
No reheat
Pried the lid up and flipped it back then disconnected the front panel wiring harness and then popped the front panel loose at the top and dropped it down. Disconnected the ignition coils, removed the coil retainer bracket and replaced the coils. Reassembled it in reverse order, performed functional test. Success!
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- Customer:
- David from Balsam Lake, WI
- Parts Used:
- 5303931775
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
dryer wouldn't heat
Removed the panel between the dryer and washer. The gas valve was right in front. The wires were in a plug and easy to remove from old part. The solinoid held in place by a clamp with two screws.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Hixson, TN
- Parts Used:
- 5303931775
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The Dryer would not lite
Took the coils off and put the new one on thats all
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- Customer:
- J Martin from Guerneville, CA
- Parts Used:
- 5303931775
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer just barely got warm
Everything I needed to know was already on your website. Prying off the top of the dryer (with a big screwdriver under the front of the top) was the hardest thing, since I was afraid I would break something. Only then can the front be removed (taking out just 2 phillips screws). The rest is easy.
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- Customer:
- robert from sonora, CA
- Parts Used:
- 5303931775
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
dryer wouldn't heat
Part Select got me the right parts in the agreed time--good job. Shut off the power or unplug the dryer which ever is easiest. The toughest part of doing this job was figuring out how the lid came off the dryer, if you have a jack knife or a putty knife you push it in between the top of the dryer and the body about an inch below the dryer top and about six inch from both sides of the dryer front you will hit a latch that releases the top--slip a screw driver into the opening and do the other side. The top can be removed or you can hold it open with a stick. There are two screws that you need to locate they are on the inside of the dryer front about 9" from the top one on each side they are all that hold the front on the body so remove them but carefully not to drop them inside the dryer. On my dryer there were two screw inside the dryer door that held the filter body onto the front that had to be removed too. Then push the screw driver between the front and the body of the dryer like the top and it will pop open. There are some wires going to the front from the body they can be unplug just follow the wires to the connection point. On mine, I squeezed the sides of the connector and the wires pulled apart. Now you can move the front aside. At the lower right in the body you find the valve and heater burner. On top of the valve there are two sets of wires coming off the valve. Disconnect the wires--one set is for a three wire connection the other for two wire connection. Your parts have a two wire coil and a three wire coil. The coils are freed by unscrewing the metal cover that holds them down remove the two screws and that cover then remove the old coil off the valve then replace the new coil with the part that is the same. Three pin coil with three pin coil positioning in the same way as the old coil, then do the other one. Reattached the metal cover with the screws and put it all back together in reverse order. The dryer chamber--the inside of the dryer rests on the front so when you put them together you may have to lift the chamber up to met the face a little (1/4"). Good luck.
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