DG28A6WSFA Gibson Dryer - Instructions

Popped the top... disconnected wiring... dropped the front... replaced coils... reversed sequence... done deal. No hassle, no worries, easy as 1-2-3!

parts arrive just like they said they would .had parts installed with in 15 minutes was drying clothes thank you your advice was perfect.

There was a small plate and 2 screws holding the 2 coils. I just removed the screws, unplugged the 2 coils, plugged the new ones in and put the dryer back together.

I tested continuity on parts like burner (ok) then on solenoids (not ok) timer (ok) I visited several websites and found the AppliancePartsPros.com site with FREE repair forum and found valuable advice. Then ordered my parts at Parts Select and were delivered 3 later at my front door.
Now a days you almost can forget to work on all the electronics in a wasmachine and dryer, unless you're a electronic guru.
THks.

Followed instructions and the repair went very smooth from start to finish. From getting tools out of tool tray to putting them back it took 15 minutes.

After reading other peoples problems i decided it must be the coils after looking at the picture of the part I looked at the dryer to find were the part was. it was right in front behind the inspection cover. so i order the part. it came very fast.these are not the first parts i have purchased from Partselect.the web site is newer now and i am glad because reading other peoples problems help me decide what was wrong with mine.PS Always clean every thing inside the dryer!! 15-20 min job one screw driver! (19 year old unit works fine)thanks to Partselect!!!

My dryer was heating up very briefly blowing hot air initially then cool. I have a stacking washer/dryer set (2002). I initially turned off the gas valve at the wall, ran the dry for several minutes to clear the gas line, then unplugged the power. I was then able to pop the top using a flathead screw driver, securely prop it open, unhook the wiring harness to the front panel, unscrew the two front panel screws, and remove the entire front without having to unstack the units. From there, you remove the two screws holding the bracket over the coils (2 of them), remove the electrical connectors attached to both coils and replaced them with the new ones. I then replaced all brackets, screws, and such (you'll need to lift the drum when putting the front back on and make sure it is lined up), plugged it back into power and turned on the gas to test the unit which worked perfectly. The 62% of the time seems to be an accurate figure as nothing else had to be done to the unit. Pretty easy stuff...good luck.

There was no heat, the dryer worked in all respects but the flame did not come on to dry the clothes. I suspected the ignighter so I disconected the wire leading to the ignighter and tested the electrical connection with a regular tester used for testing 120 v ac circuits in a normal residential house outlet. I turned the dryer on and used the tester on the incoming electrical line that I disconnected from the ignighter there was power so I determined that the trouble was with the ignighter,it took about ten minutes to replace the ignighter after I received the part from partselect. The dryer worked fine with the new part. A fairly simple job to take the burner out and install the ignighter.

Took the coils off and put the new one on thats all

Everything I needed to know was already on your website. Prying off the top of the dryer (with a big screwdriver under the front of the top) was the hardest thing, since I was afraid I would break something. Only then can the front be removed (taking out just 2 phillips screws). The rest is easy.

Never knew I was handy, but I did it! I was reluctant to spend a couple $100 on a repair visit, so found this site and bought the coils I needed for only $26+tax. It's pretty easy. I just lifted up the top of the dryer with a screw driver, should snap open. Then unscrewed the front panel with two screws from the inside. Then located the old coils on the bottom left. The bracket that holds them is a little difficult to remove as you need to have a small philips screw driver to get the back one. But once I got that off, just unplugged the old ones and put the bracket back, then the panels and it WORKED. The only problem I have is that I didn't take the door switch off properly and now the dryer doesn't stop spinning if I open the door and want to check the clothes. So I may have to get someone in eventually.

Removed the panel between the dryer and washer. The gas valve was right in front. The wires were in a plug and easy to remove from old part. The solinoid held in place by a clamp with two screws.

Part Select got me the right parts in the agreed time--good job. Shut off the power or unplug the dryer which ever is easiest. The toughest part of doing this job was figuring out how the lid came off the dryer, if you have a jack knife or a putty knife you push it in between the top of the dryer and the body about an inch below the dryer top and about six inch from both sides of the dryer front you will hit a latch that releases the top--slip a screw driver into the opening and do the other side. The top can be removed or you can hold it open with a stick. There are two screws that you need to locate they are on the inside of the dryer front about 9" from the top one on each side they are all that hold the front on the body so remove them but carefully not to drop them inside the dryer. On my dryer there were two screw inside the dryer door that held the filter body onto the front that had to be removed too. Then push the screw driver between the front and the body of the dryer like the top and it will pop open. There are some wires going to the front from the body they can be unplug just follow the wires to the connection point. On mine, I squeezed the sides of the connector and the wires pulled apart. Now you can move the front aside. At the lower right in the body you find the valve and heater burner. On top of the valve there are two sets of wires coming off the valve. Disconnect the wires--one set is for a three wire connection the other for two wire connection. Your parts have a two wire coil and a three wire coil. The coils are freed by unscrewing the metal cover that holds them down remove the two screws and that cover then remove the old coil off the valve then replace the new coil with the part that is the same. Three pin coil with three pin coil positioning in the same way as the old coil, then do the other one. Reattached the metal cover with the screws and put it all back together in reverse order. The dryer chamber--the inside of the dryer rests on the front so when you put them together you may have to lift the chamber up to met the face a little (1/4"). Good luck.

This repair took about fifteen minutes. I popped the top of the dryer using a flat-blade screwdriver, leaned it back against the back wall, unscrewed two screws holding the front panel, removed the five electrical spade contacts after marking which went where, swung out the panel and lifted it off. After that, it was a simple job to unscrew the plate holding the solenoids in, at the bottom left of the unit. I replaced the solenoids, closed everything up and now the dryer is working better than it has in the last three years, or so. If your dryer is heating sporadically, the odds are 85%, or more, that a solenoid swap-out will correct the problem.

after checking on line, i shut off the gas and disconnected the burner unit from dryer. after removing unit i tested all electronic parts and found the igniter was bad. i removed same and ordered new part. when new part was delv. i reinstalled the unit and all worked like new.