HDG857K*129 General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Backwards to start- here's the correct way.Disconnect power and vent hose-tip onto front-remove bottom plate allowing access to bottom of dryer and the belt pulleys-remove the small plate in center and under that is a C-clip holding the drum shaft in place-remove the clip and washer-sit dryer upright - open the door and remove the 4 screws under the upper lip which hold the top of the dryer in place-lift up top and secure or have someone hold it up.-inside the top front on both sides are 2 screws per side and there are 2 screws at the bottom under the kick area, remove all 6 of these screws and the front of the dryer will come off-watch the wires-with the front off you can pull the drum forward to allow installing the new belt. - hold the new belt in place with a couple of pieces of tape-reverse the procedure to put drum back together and then thread the new belt onto the drive pulley and under the idler tension pulley.- reinstall back plate, vent hose, power and you're ready to go have a beer.

My husband and I had taken apart this dryer before, so the second time was a lot easier. The first time we took it apart it took 2-3 frustrating hours. So, if it's your first time, plan for longer.

1. Before we started anything we unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
2. We removed the top and loosened the contol panel on top.
3. We removed the front. Be careful of the wires. You can label them, or just remember where they go.
4. Lay the dryer down on it's back. This make's it easier to remove the drum.
5. Remove the drum, but gently slide the belt off first. Don't stretch the belt removing it.
6. Once the drum was removed, we removed the screws from the inside of the drum.
7. We didn't need to use the entire kit, just the part that sits in the center and spins...kinda looks like a top. (Yes, that's my technical description)
8. We screwed in the new "top" and put the dryer back together.

Really the only part I had to help with (this time)was putting the drum back in to make sure it sat where it was supposed to. It made a big difference that it was laying on it's back...we didn't do that the first time, which was part of our frustration.

Putting the belt back on is a little tricky too. We had instructions still for our dryer to refer to put it back on. If you don't have yours, just google or bing for the instructions. There's website's out there with great pictures.

Unplug the dryer. Remove top panel (remove two screws on the upper inside edge of the dryer door). Lift the front panel from front (tabs and slots at the back) and lift off. Remove the front panel (remove a screw from each side - top/front). Front panel sits on two feet at the bottom, tilt it forward from the top and lift it up (careful not to damage the electrical connection at the bottom left side). I found the dryer had another damaged part (plastic guide that the Slide WH and the Drum Slides connected to was badly worn). After ordering the additional part I attached the slides (white and gray) to the guide. Set the front panel back on the two feet and tilt it back into place (you'll need to slightly raise the drum back into position - easy). Replace the two screws that connect the front panel. Replace the top cover. The whole repair took less than 1/2 an hour including the time it took to vacuum out the dust. Total cost, about $35!

My Daughter did it for me .

Unplug the dryer, turn off the gas. Opened the lower front door panel. She disconnected the gas pipe from the igniter assembly. Then She removed the two screws holding the assmb. Then she removed the wire from the front of the assmb. and the white and black wire from the back of the unit. remove the old igniter put in the new one put it back together.

The gentleman knew what the problem was, sent the right part, and I looked like I was smart.

Replaced gas igniter The part came a day after I ordered it. I really liked the speed of delivery.

- Removed two screws at top left and right of door.
- Removed top dryer panel
- Removed two screws holding front panel in place
- Noticed drum slide was missing because front drum bearing was worn away and slide had fallen off.
- Went ahead and removed drum to replace rear drum bearing (probably not needed; should have disassembled it first to discover this). Would have been better to pull drum first (loosen idler pulley and release belt, pull drum straight out) instead of attempting to unscrew bearing. Be sure to note how the idler pulley is set.
- vacuumed tons of lint up
- Replaced bearing (needed a second person for this; drum too big to reach around. be sure to pre-thread the bearing)
- Ordered front drum bearing, waiting to repair it now, should be good after this.

drive belt gone, replaced belt and bearing

Watched a video online on how to replace the belt, it pretty much told me what to look for to get the drum out. Followed the instructions sent with the bearing kit and removed the old bearing assembly. Ran the screws supplied with the kit into the bearing assembly before I installed it. This was a tip I got off PartsSelect website. Running the screws in first is a must! Had my wife hold the assembly in place while I ran the screws in. That part of the job is the only time you need an extra set of hands. Put the dryer back together and it works like a quiet champ now.

Actually, my boyfriend did the repair by taking off the top and back of the dryer to access the drum and belt he replaced the belt and put the dryer back together
We are greatful for your service and really happy we didn't have to drive all over to find the part.

Your instructions were execellent
Problem is solve
Thank you

It was simple to get drum out. I took all screws holding top and door out with out problems, then released the drive belt. It took some wiggling to get the drum out. I then was able to get at the rear elements. Taking the wires off the thermostat came off with a little persuasion. Removing shaft from drum took some stretching as I was doing the work by myself. I would suggest that a helper be used for the removal and replacement of the shaft. Reassembly was easy. Just reverse of the above.

I first removed four screws above the door opening to lift off the top, then removed two screws, near the top, inside the front, to remove the front. There I found that 2 grey plastic and one white plastic anti-friction strips were worn to nothing (even the large plastic bezel that incorporates the light was starting to wear away, from just a few days!).

When I went to put the front back on, i couldn't get the lip of the drum to ride properly on the felt. In fiddling with it, the drum fell off the rear bearing, too, so I put it back on.

So I ordered new felt, two white and two grey strips (I didn't know if 1 or 2 were in each $8 "kit"--only one per kit), a spare belt--just in case--and some bulbs.

Putting the strips on was easy--15 seconds each. Putting on the felt took all of 20 seconds. I spent more time scraping off the dust and vacuuming things out!

The drum fit over the felt quite easily now, and when I ran it, it was wonderfully quiet. For a minute! Then, it started making a new, grinding noise!

I had a Sears repairman friend come over, and he found that a small platic bushing had fallen off the rear bearing element. Once he put that in place, it all worked perfectly. Beautifully quiet!

Initially purchased just the plastic slides, but when I opened the dryer I found the top drum bearing was smashed and the plastic was basically gone in a whole section, so I then ended up ordering the bearing as well. If you hear the loud squeaking, just buy the top drum bearing and the 4 slides (two white and two dark green). It is an easy repair and the squeaking sound is gone.

First I got the front bearing, found out I needed the slides too. It was binding at first, so I undid an earlier misadjustment I made (on the back drum mount). and it works!