GTMX180ED4WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Just slipped it on. No problems, No Tools.

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

Took out interlock switch (two leads) and replaced with new one. As simple as that.

I was using vice grips to turn the control knob (stub) until the new knob arrived. The replacement knob was a redesigned type with a metal backing plate to place on the control knob stub (better than the original plastic knob) however the diameter of the new knob is only half the size of the original knob and the mark on the dial does not line up with the markings on the dryer control panel making it difficult to know what cycle you are using or how far to turn the dial within each cycle before passing to the next cycle.

If your dryer is making a grinding or loud plastic rubbing noise, you likely need to replace the slides. Here is how I did it.

TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.

IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.

Step 1: Remove the control panel

To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.

Step 2: Remove the lid

There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.

Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses

Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)

Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to

There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.

Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)

There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.

Step 5: Replace the slides

The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.

Step 6: Putting it all back together

Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.

It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.

Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!

followed video exactly

Son found out where the bulb was by using YouTube. I googled lamp for model number and your website came up. I ordered the part, it arrived promptly, and my son installed it.

stuck it back in the holes just like the original handle. Had to do a little adjustment because I put screwdriver in them too many times to open the door after the original handle feel off, so the fit was loose. Fixed with tape.

This was so easy. I used needle nose pliers to reach in and remove the metal clip which had slipped off of the inside of the knob and was on the post the knob was supposed to attach to. Next, I lined up the flat side of the "D" of the inside of the knob to the flat side of the "D" on the post and pushed it in until it snapped into place, and I was done. The dryer now works like new.

I remove the know, slid the old timer out, leaving the wires connected. Placed the new timer into position and secured it, then unplugged wiring one at a time, placing them onto the new timer. All went great.

YouTube showed me just what to do. I unplugged the dryer and took the back off. Then I took a picture of the timer with my phone since there were about 6 different colored wires that had to be unhooked and put back in the right place. It was not difficult. Last I turned the timer in the bracket so it was secure. I also had to order a new dial since the old one was split from years of use. A repairman would have charged for the call out plus the parts so I saved money by doing it myself. P.S. I'm a 71 year old woman.

Based on the few components in a dryer, I diagnosed the problem as a defective timer switch. Five screws remove the rear cover. The timer switch purchased was the identical part that was currently installed. In the old days, I would have drawn a picture to note the wiring connections. These days, we just take a picture on a cell phone. I removed the switch from the dryer and moved the wire connections one at a time over to the new switch. When all of the connections were in place, I installed the new switch. With cover still removed, we tested it and the dryer shut off as it should. Super easy repair. The only thing I would have done differently is I should have purchased a replacement knob and retainer - the original had cracks in the plastic that I didn't know about until re-assembly. Superglue took care of the knob, but I should have replaced it too. Disconnect the power cord first, take your time, and be careful with the sharp edges of sheet metal. I suffered an ugly cut on my finger but I'll survive. Super easy repair. She'll think you're a hero since she didn't have to call a repair man.

Handyman installed the finally correct switch. It was not the starter button.
This company was wonderful. Replaced each part without charge and rushed the replacements to us. Can' say enough good things to thank them for their courtesy.

Opened up the package and took off existing door handle. The new one snapped right into place. This took all of 10 seconds!

Snapped right into place , less than a minute, if that