PTMX910EM1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Open the door and removed the part. Installed the new part and started the dryer.

JUST FOLLOWED THE VIDEO PROVIDED ON THIS SITE. VERY EASY TO DO WITH BASIC TOOLS, AND A FEW MINUTES.

Unplugged dryer from wall.Removed 3 screws from the back that held the front face plate on. Pulled face plate away and to the right to release it from the dryer. Lifted the locking tab slightly and turned the old timer counter clockwise to remove. One at a time I removed a wire and connected it to the new timer. Installed new timer to the back of the face plate. Pushed on timer knob so I could hold the back of the timer to get it all the way on to the shaft. Lined up the three tabs at the bottom of the face place and slid it to the left , pushed the face face into place and secured it with the 3 screws. Plug Dryer back in. Done in less than 10 minutes. Dryer now works properly again. I know I saved myself a lot of money doing the repair my self.

Replaced dryer motor which was a perfect fit thanks to your help. The process was helped by the internet videos available for the step by step procedure of taking the dryer apart and replacing the bad motor. I also was able to completely clean the inside of the dryer thoroughly, and reassemble it back together .

Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.

I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

Follow the instructions from YOUTUBE to replace the new drive belt..

We were able to do the repair easily by following the video instructions. Be sure to record where the different wires attach. You may need a square tipped screw driver, we had to buy one.There was one extra screw holding in the timer that I don't think was in the video.
Before ordering the timer, take off the timer knob and check to see if it is cracked inside. You may need to order the timer knob in addition to (or instead of) the timer itself. You can test this by taking off another knob and putting it on the timer. Make sure the metal clip is inside the shaft of the knob. The main difference between the knobs seems to be the position of the arrow. We are now using the knob from the signal buzzer while waiting for the timer knob to arrive.

watched vidio from the site.just follow the instructions, And was able to fixed the problem.

4 screws to open it up,pull out the wheel and there it is on back . Pretty easy..

Watched the video they sent when they shipped my order. Started they repair and was done in less than 20 mins. Very easy to complete.

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.