PTMX910GMWW0 General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Unscrewed the old bulb using the lefty loosey method. Installed the new bulb by turning it clockwise or righty tighty.

Removed old one, inserted new one in slot. Just have to be sure it's turned in the right direction.

Watched tecnician (I paid) as he diagnosed the problem. Four screws take of the top and front. Clothes drum slides out. Access to valve is good. Valve attaches to feed via compression fitting. Male end of fitting on unit is moved to new unit via allen wrench. Drive belt is re attached around drum and over idler easily. Part cost $90.00 shipp0ed to me. Technician asked $375.00 for this repair. Access the parts via placing the model number on Google Search.

Looked at the diagram on your web site and replaced part

Dryer was making a horrible noise. When I took it apart I noticed that the from side dryer bearing was ruined. Ordered the part with the slide bars and replaced...Works great...

Searched the sites order # online, called, ordered, delivered PDQ, unpackaged, popped in. That was it.

My advise is to watch the video prior to starting, while fresh in your mind start the repair, it's so simple, I actually thought I was the Maytag Repair man,

Take out the two screws holding the top on with the door open remove top and remove two small screws in top front corners. I replaced the 4 slides and the drum bearing without the new felt, do not do this it continued to squeek after it ran the first few times when i got the new felt a week later i installed it in ten minuites and the noise is gone. I think it cost around sixty dollars and my dryer is back in action. Make sure that you clean all of the lint out of the inside of your dryer I had alot of build up near the chute for the lint trap.

Unplugged power to dryer. Opened door and removed the two screws that hold the top panel on. Removed top panel and set aside. Then removed the two screws that hold the front panel secure and leaned front panel towards me. Replaced parts with absolutely no tools. Reverse steps to assemble dryer. The videos are very informative and give you the confidence you need to do it yourself.

The bracket on the part supplied was different than the original. The wire connector was also different. The bracket had to be drilled for a hole to match the original. The connector had to be cut off and the wires soldered together, then tied off to the frame to keep them away from the flame. The repair works like new but not the simple plug and play I was expecting. In all fairness the exact model number was not available, probably since the appliance was 24 years old, so I chose the closest model number with the picture that looked like what I had. Problem solved.

Dryer started making screeching noises while running, got progressively worse. Without taking it apart first, I ordered a front drum bearing and slides because this site said it fixed the problem the majority of the time. The site said replace the slides in pairs, but there are actually four. I picked up 2 more at a local appliance store, at roughly twice the price. Turned out I didn't need th replace the plastic piece called drum bearing, just the 4 slides that clip onto it. It is really easy to get the top and front off with just a phillips screwdriver. I did not check the rear center main bearing, as it requred removing the drum. The squealing lessended but it still was bad. Took it back apart and pulled the drum, and fount the rear main bearing bad. I found one at the same local store for only 2 bucks more than on this site. This was a bit more of a hassle, you really need two people to get it mounted to the drum. Tip-pre thread the holes with the self tapping screws, it makes it easier to get it together. There was a bit of lint build up under the drum heating element cover, so it was good to clean that out. Also blew all the dirt out of the motor with compressed air and shop vac. There was a access panel on back to get to the motor and belt tensioner. Got the dryer all buttoned up and now it runs nice and quiet.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

Good thing my husband is so handy. This part was very difficult to get to. Basically, he had to take apart almost the whole dryer. There is no access door so the side panel had to be removed, but before you could do that the front panel and door had to come off, then the top of the dryer. Keep track of the screws, we had a few leftover! But the dryer works great again and we hope to get several more years out of it. We've had no problems with it until now and it's over 15 yrs. old.

The dryer was very noisy when it would start. The drum had warn the pads out and the drum was riding on the drum bearing. It really isn't a bearing more of a big piece of plastic. On the bearing are 4 slides (2 white and 2 green). These are easy to replace if the bearing is good. I let mine go too long and wore part of the bearing off. To fix: UNPLUG! Open the door and find 2 screws facing upward screwed into the top. Remove these 2 screws and remove the top. Take notice of how it comes out of the dash. On each side of the front panel (from inside) there is a smaller screw with a bigger head, remove both of these. You can now lift the front panel away from the drum and pull the front panel right out. It would be a good time to take a shop vac and clean all the lint out of this. Mine was almost full. If you are changing the bearing it is held in place with clips built on the bearing. Remove and replace. Put on the new slides as well. There is a little tab on the bearing and a hole in the slide. put the hole over the tab. The green ones I put on the top and the whites on the outter sides. Put the bottom of the panel in first and line up the drum on the new bearing, replace the 2 big headed screws, line up the top in the dash and lower into position, replace the 2 screws up inside the door and you are done. I have no dryer experience and would rate this job on a scale of 1-10 to about a 3 or a 4. There were no real suprizes.

Pull the old lint trap out. Slid new one in