GTDP280ED5WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Still waiting for your parts. over two weeks to get part which was a hinge for something, I don't know what, but not my dryer seal. You said you would refund shipping and wrong part and charge me for a new order. End result was I got charged extra shipping for your mistake. The part still is MIA and it has been 5 weeks since I originally ordered. Will never do business with you again.

Shortly after a piece of felt (the duct felt seal) was visible on the drum intererior, the dryer started making metal-on-metal squeaks. A few weeks later it started leaving'machine part' type brown/black marks on clothes. With the model # it was quite easy to find and order the correct part, which arrived a few days later. The accompanying video made installation quite straightforward, even for someone who's NEVER worked on a dryer before - even though the model used wasn't the same. Over half the repair time was to clean out lint and dirt from the various exposed parts. Overall, an easy and effective repair that solved the staining issue. Follow the video and you won't go wrong.

Snap out the broken part. Snap in the new part. Use caution with the wires, but don’t have to disconnect them.

To get to the slides, needed to take off the front panel, the top and then can loosen the front of the dryer. Pull it out enough to get to the slides and replace them.

started with replacing the belt and tension pulley which I purchased from another source. I found your videos on line and they are great. easy to follow. Realized I needed the bottom vent assembly and your prices were better than my local supplier. It was easy to replace thanks to your video. It was nice that you included it in the final order status. The only problems. Did not know the duct felt seal was included with the new duct assembly. I ordered the wrong bearing slides, web site showed both green and white for my model. I now realize I should replace the upper bearing housing. Can I return the unused parts, unopened and have that put as a credit to my next order? Thanks

good replacement procedure on you tube.

On my GE Dryer the lint filter is located inside the door at the bottom. The filter can just be pulled out by hand & a new one pushed into place

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

Replaced new screen in place of old one.

Pulled off the broken control knob (which was really easy, since it was already broken.) Aligned the new knob to the knob shaft which is shaped like a "D", pushed it onto shaft until it was fully seated. Very easy install!!GT

Removed 4 #1 Philips screws from 1side and add to the other side.

4 screws to open it up,pull out the wheel and there it is on back . Pretty easy..

When the dryer was installed last year by the dealer, one of the hot leads was not screwed down tightly. Over time the screw loosened and began to arc causing the plastic holding the screw to melt. When I moved the dryer the hot lead fell off and hit the terminal block cover shorting out the dryer. I was able to locate the exact terminal block I needed with their helpful dryer section diagrams. The part came in the time they said. I took off the old terminal block with just 2 attached screws. i kept track of which screws held the hot and neutral conductors and the ground before I removed them. I was then able to slide on the dryer wires and attached the home conductors. I put on the cover plate, turned on the circuit breaker and it worked.

Unscrewed the old, screwed in the new making sure wires matched up same as before. Reset my breaker and works like new again.