GTDP220EF5WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

started with replacing the belt and tension pulley which I purchased from another source. I found your videos on line and they are great. easy to follow. Realized I needed the bottom vent assembly and your prices were better than my local supplier. It was easy to replace thanks to your video. It was nice that you included it in the final order status. The only problems. Did not know the duct felt seal was included with the new duct assembly. I ordered the wrong bearing slides, web site showed both green and white for my model. I now realize I should replace the upper bearing housing. Can I return the unused parts, unopened and have that put as a credit to my next order? Thanks

good replacement procedure on you tube.

Snap out the broken part. Snap in the new part. Use caution with the wires, but don’t have to disconnect them.

On my GE Dryer the lint filter is located inside the door at the bottom. The filter can just be pulled out by hand & a new one pushed into place

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

Replaced new screen in place of old one.

Pulled off the broken control knob (which was really easy, since it was already broken.) Aligned the new knob to the knob shaft which is shaped like a "D", pushed it onto shaft until it was fully seated. Very easy install!!GT

4 screws to open it up,pull out the wheel and there it is on back . Pretty easy..

When the dryer was installed last year by the dealer, one of the hot leads was not screwed down tightly. Over time the screw loosened and began to arc causing the plastic holding the screw to melt. When I moved the dryer the hot lead fell off and hit the terminal block cover shorting out the dryer. I was able to locate the exact terminal block I needed with their helpful dryer section diagrams. The part came in the time they said. I took off the old terminal block with just 2 attached screws. i kept track of which screws held the hot and neutral conductors and the ground before I removed them. I was then able to slide on the dryer wires and attached the home conductors. I put on the cover plate, turned on the circuit breaker and it worked.

Removed 4 #1 Philips screws from 1side and add to the other side.

Unscrewed the old, screwed in the new making sure wires matched up same as before. Reset my breaker and works like new again.

We were able to do the repair easily by following the video instructions. Be sure to record where the different wires attach. You may need a square tipped screw driver, we had to buy one.There was one extra screw holding in the timer that I don't think was in the video.
Before ordering the timer, take off the timer knob and check to see if it is cracked inside. You may need to order the timer knob in addition to (or instead of) the timer itself. You can test this by taking off another knob and putting it on the timer. Make sure the metal clip is inside the shaft of the knob. The main difference between the knobs seems to be the position of the arrow. We are now using the knob from the signal buzzer while waiting for the timer knob to arrive.

Used a flash light to see, reached in and installed new bulb above the door

remove the old one and put the new one...!!! Easy

Open dryer door, reach in at the 12 o'clock postion
on the inside is the bulb.