GTDX185ED4CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Robert from WEST CHESTER, PA
- Parts Used:
- WE4M533
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer timer stopped working
Removal of old from mount was easy, did take photo of wires before their removal. Replacement timer came within 3 days,installation went smoothly. Only find that timer's operating time varies from graphics on dryer as to amount of time on, but easy to make adjustments.
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- Customer:
- STAN from UPPER ARLNGTN, OH
- Parts Used:
- WE1M1011
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Plastic housing for the door latch mounted in the chassis of the dryer was damaged so the section of the latch in the door wouldn't align.
This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!
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- Customer:
- Tim from Pembroke, NH
- Parts Used:
- WE4M416
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer only runs when Start button is pressed
Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!
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- Customer:
- gerard from goldsboro, NC
- Parts Used:
- WE09X27634
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
the felt in front door worn out
i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat
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- Customer:
- Jose from LILBURN, GA
- Parts Used:
- WE14X25080
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Catching clothing and reping
Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new
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- Customer:
- Darin from MEDINA, MN
- Parts Used:
- WE03X37320, WE03X37319
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replace dryer front bearing slides
If your dryer is making a grinding or loud plastic rubbing noise, you likely need to replace the slides. Here is how I did it.
TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.
IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.
Step 1: Remove the control panel
To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.
Step 2: Remove the lid
There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.
Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses
Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)
Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to
There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.
Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)
There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.
Step 5: Replace the slides
The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.
Step 6: Putting it all back together
Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.
It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.
Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.
IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.
Step 1: Remove the control panel
To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.
Step 2: Remove the lid
There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.
Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses
Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)
Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to
There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.
Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)
There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.
Step 5: Replace the slides
The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.
Step 6: Putting it all back together
Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.
It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.
Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
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- Customer:
- Mary from NEW BRITAIN, CT
- Parts Used:
- WE05X20431
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dryer bulb burned out
Son found out where the bulb was by using YouTube. I googled lamp for model number and your website came up. I ordered the part, it arrived promptly, and my son installed it.
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- Customer:
- Paul from NORTH PLATTE, NE
- Parts Used:
- WE4M533
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Timer internal gears had stripped and dryer would not start
followed video exactly
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- Customer:
- walter from STRATFORD, CT
- Parts Used:
- WE18X25100
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
lint filter was broken
remove the broken one and replace it with the new one
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- Customer:
- Lilly from CROSBY, TX
- Parts Used:
- WE01X20419
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
handle fell off
stuck it back in the holes just like the original handle. Had to do a little adjustment because I put screwdriver in them too many times to open the door after the original handle feel off, so the fit was loose. Fixed with tape.
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- Customer:
- MARY from ERIE, PA
- Parts Used:
- WE18X25100
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
remove plastic and insert
inserted the lint catcher into the opening to replace the old one
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- Customer:
- john from west milford, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WE18X25100
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
no problem
this was a part i ordered for future use. i was very happy with the ordering process and speed of delivery from PartSelect.
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- Customer:
- Steve from West Bloomfield, MI
- Parts Used:
- WE01X20419
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Plastic handle in dryer broke off.
All I neede to do was buy the new part and snap it into place on the door. The hardest part was making the door usable while waiting for a new handle. The solution was good old duct tape. I just taped the old broken handle in place until the new one showed up.
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- Customer:
- janet from martinsville, IN
- Parts Used:
- WE1X1192
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
dryer did not latch
easy to fix took less than 10 minutes
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- Customer:
- MARIE from SAUGUS, MA
- Parts Used:
- WE05X20431, WE5M48
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Had to use y tube
After speaking with your representative and him explaining how to me how simple it would be to switch out this light socket myself. I went on y tube went through the instructions and had to go buy a new dryer. And before you jump to any conclusions I can and do repair and and all of things around my house. I will NEVER purchase anything from you company again ander the pretense that it is so simple. This should have been told to me that an election should have done the job!!!!!! Now not only am I out the money I paid your company but I’m out the money I shelled out for a whole new dryer. I am a very angry customer and I would never recommend you to anyone!!! EVER!!!
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