DBXR463EG3CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Disconnect Power from the Dryer
Remove 2 screws that held the top on the dryer.
Removed the 2 screw that held the front on the dryer.
Unhooked the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley.
Pulled the drum out. Removed the belt.
Removed the three screws that held the bearing assembly
on the back of the drum.
Removed the keeper o-ring slide the bad bearing off of shaft. Slide the new bearing on the shaft put the new o-ring on the shaft. Reassembled the bearing on back of the drum. Put belt back around the drum and put drum back in place. Put The belt around the motor pulley and tensioner
(this is probably the hardest part).
Put the front and top back together.
Turned the power back on. Job done

Pulled out the remnants of the old latch out with the pliers and then popped the new one in...less than 2 minutes. Oh, and the part was delivered in less than 2 days. Great job, Partselect !

Replaced cycle thermostat.

my problem was easy, i orderd a new lint filter, for a
dryer that is at least 10y/o. it came to me by FEDEX,
in 3 days. i threw out the old one and put in the new
one. easy peasy. i will say that this website had what i
wanted and got it to me very quickly. good job by
PARTSELECT......

I reviewed the video instructions on the website; these were invaluable to understand the task. Since the dryer drum had to be removed to replace the thermostat, it was prudent to replace the drive belt at disassembly. Great job on the videos to see the extra effort required to install the new belt around the tensioner pulley while supporting the drum. I will use this site again when a need arises, because they are quick to ship the ordered part(s) and help the DIY handyman make repairs via the videos.

When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!

I wanted to fix the cheapest possible problem first which was the thermostat.

Got the dryer apart and it was the wrong thermostat for the dryer, which was good news! I looked in inside floor of the dryer cabinet and saw alot of tiny "springs". Couldn't figure how they got there.

Turned out they were coils from the heating element. Must have burnt out and fell free from the element. So I ordered that and replaced it.

I want to say that I'm in NJ and I ordered that thermostat and got it in ONE DAY! Thought that was too good to be true but when I ordered the heating element THAT CAME IN ONE DAY!

I don't know what kind of people work in the shipping department but they are awesome! You really made the difference on this job.

So did the info on your website. I've never even seen a dryer apart before. It was a piece of cake thanks to you guys. You just saved me about $500.

Removed case parts to expose internal wiring. Vacuumed up various types of mouse debris and plugged hole they were using. Ordered terminal block to replace the one that melted while sparks were flying. Replaced power cord with one I had in my basement from some other appliance that died a while ago. "Hey honey, ya know those old parts I saved..." :) Now it is heating to capacity and no spark-show! Oh yeah, the part I ordered from Partselect.com was delivered to my door the next day!!!!! Wow!

1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the front panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.

Used an allen wrench to remove the heat deflector and used allen wrench to replace it with the new one. HINT!! Do not lean on the inside of the dryer!!!!!!

Read the other posts - they are very good. On my particular dryer it took two Slide WH and two Slide Dryer Drum Side PS266785.

Most time spent was vaccuming out and removing a softball size ball of lint clogging the dryer - now it will actually dry clothes!

Part select delivery is really fantastic (even though it took me three orders to get it right!).

Took the few screws out replaced the part then put it back together.

took out broken filter and replaced with new lint
filter.

Unscrewed three screws on back and removed the switch and inserted the new one. There are 3 wires that clamp on the switch. Remember to unplug before doing this.

Real easy and great people to work with. Much cheaper than a technician repair.

Jim

I narrowed the porblem down to the rotary start switch, which is located in the top panel. It takes a hex wrench to remove the four screws holding the fron top panel in place and of course the knobs had to be removed. The switch rotates about a wuarter of a turn to come out. Label and remove the three connectors (3). It took about a week to get the replacement part which was slightly different than the original part. The good thing is it had the three prongs like the old part.. I hooked the connectors in the same configuration as the old switch, plugged the power cord back in to test and it started right up.