GTD84GCSN2WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Replacement door came with hinges. Removed four Phillips head screws, removed original door, and replaced it with the new door. Because I needed to move the dryer to allow room to get to the screws, I needed about 15 minutes to complete the project.

Opened up dryer for access to all components and tested. All checked good. Put back together and tested and igniter came on but no flame. Purchased two new coils and tested again. No flame. Purchased complete valve assembly and replaced old one. Tested again and viola, success! TY PartSelect for exact replacement part.

Still waiting for your parts. over two weeks to get part which was a hinge for something, I don't know what, but not my dryer seal. You said you would refund shipping and wrong part and charge me for a new order. End result was I got charged extra shipping for your mistake. The part still is MIA and it has been 5 weeks since I originally ordered. Will never do business with you again.

Shortly after a piece of felt (the duct felt seal) was visible on the drum intererior, the dryer started making metal-on-metal squeaks. A few weeks later it started leaving'machine part' type brown/black marks on clothes. With the model # it was quite easy to find and order the correct part, which arrived a few days later. The accompanying video made installation quite straightforward, even for someone who's NEVER worked on a dryer before - even though the model used wasn't the same. Over half the repair time was to clean out lint and dirt from the various exposed parts. Overall, an easy and effective repair that solved the staining issue. Follow the video and you won't go wrong.

With the help of doityourself guy on the internet

Replaced hi-limit thermostat, which acts like a heat-triggered fuse. Youtube videos show how to do this by removing the drum, but I was able to get to the device from above (with drum in place) after removing the top panel per the regular instructions. I then loosening a cover plate that was over the rear of the drum area. This approach was not easy because there's not much room to work, but (1) I used a small ratchet nut driver and (2) I did not fully remove the one screw that secures the thermostat. Note that the other two thermostats cannot be reached this way. Use the service instructions tucked in the rear control panel area to run thermostat tests after restoring operation. To enter the field test mode be aware that you must do the test activation steps in quick succession for it to work (this is not indicated on the instructions).

Easy watch YouTube and open door placed screwdriver under door switch pry lightly and switch will pop out unplug wire connectors and replace on new switch reinsert switch should be done

Removed gas line. removed control panel, removed top, removed front, removed burner, replaced igniter, put back in. paused and played the video. very easy to do. 42 minutes and I had a few beers.

To get to the slides, needed to take off the front panel, the top and then can loosen the front of the dryer. Pull it out enough to get to the slides and replace them.

Once I figured out how to remove the control panel. The rest was very easy. Upon pulling off the knob in the center of the control panel, there was a screw behind it. Once removed I used the palm of my hand and gave it a couple of upward hits in the center while the door was open. It slid up and I removed the electrical connections. Then carefully removed the top by pushing from the rear of the machine slightly and lifted off. Then removing the screws that hold the front on . After that it went pretty easily, reassembly went in reverse and. That was that!

The entire dryer had to be taken apart to get to the door switch. I determined the door switch was faulty by measuring conductivity. I purchased the new switch which cost about $9. The shipping cost was $9. After all that, the dryer still won't start. I gave up and bought a new dryer.

Watched tecnician (I paid) as he diagnosed the problem. Four screws take of the top and front. Clothes drum slides out. Access to valve is good. Valve attaches to feed via compression fitting. Male end of fitting on unit is moved to new unit via allen wrench. Drive belt is re attached around drum and over idler easily. Part cost $90.00 shipp0ed to me. Technician asked $375.00 for this repair. Access the parts via placing the model number on Google Search.

The bracket on the part supplied was different than the original. The wire connector was also different. The bracket had to be drilled for a hole to match the original. The connector had to be cut off and the wires soldered together, then tied off to the frame to keep them away from the flame. The repair works like new but not the simple plug and play I was expecting. In all fairness the exact model number was not available, probably since the appliance was 24 years old, so I chose the closest model number with the picture that looked like what I had. Problem solved.

Replace both micro switches.

Pry out switch with screwdriver. After removing switch unplug electrical leads from old switch. Plug leads in new switch and reinstall switch in dryer.