DBXR463ED1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

The front panel has wear and tear, as was the drum bearing with broken pieces. To buy a new dryer would be several hundred dollars. A repairman told us it is not worth trying to replace the front panel. I found part select and ordered the required parts. All in all my cost is just over 200 dollars and I have a like new dryer. The front panel does not exactly fit my dryer (I guess my dryer is older) so I had to drill two holes to fit the bottom catch plate. I followed the video instructions. It was easy.

pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in back wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.

The inner piece of the knob cracked so it just spun on the dryer shaft it's suppose to turn. Ordered a new knob, slipped it on and all works great again now.

I had already replaced the four (4) small wear strips which were like short strips of teflon, and the squeaking decreased almost completly. I noticed that front side of the drum itself had started to wear through the actual plastc drum bearing, but I hoped having previously replaced these tefon strips that would be the overall fix.
Wrong again... after a few weeks the squeeking continued until I ordered the new drum bearing and replaced the worn one with the new one. I was able to re-use the previous teflon wer strips, and it's like new now at least the squeaks are gone,

The actual fix was a very simple remove old drum bearing, snap in new drum bearing install old teflon wear strips put four screws in top, and front panel and I was back in business

I am a 55 year old woman who likes to repair household items. I followed You Tube instructions and did it all by myself. A few screws to get the top off and a two more to remove the front piece. Trap duct assembly was cracked and falling apart. Pulling off the old was fairly easy. I watched the You Tube instructions on my Ipad so I could rewind and watch as I did it. The hardest part was I dropped one of the screws when placing the front of the dryer back on and had to find another one that was the same size. Luckily I have lots of old screws in my tool box, If you like to do small simple repairs to save some money this is an easy one.

Just took out of plastic wrapping and put on dryer. No tools needed.

Dryer is 3 yeras old. This dryer switch / start knob broke three times. First two GE repair fixed it. Charge was about $75 to $100. Then I found Parts Select, Who what great prices. Switch cost under $10. and took me 10 minutes to install. Dryer works great again. OH, I ordered an extra switch to have on hand.

Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new

Pulled off old knob and snapped new one into place. Took about 5 seconds. Must be a lame design cause my dryer's less than 2 years old and the knob snapped on the inside and wouldn't turn. Easy to fix though.

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

-- Unplug dryer from electrical outlet
-- Open Door
-- Remove two screws going up into the top panel
-- Remove top panel
-- Close door
-- Remove two screws holding front panel
-- Remove Front Panel by turning out, keeping left side close to unit since wires are still connected.
-- Vacuum out all loose dust/lint
-- Tilt old Drum bearing toward you to remove.
-- Remove Old Felt Drum Seal
-- Install drum Slides on new Drum Bearing
-- Install new Drum Bearing, make sure it clicks into place securely.
-- Install new Felt Seal, make sure to push in far enough to securely hook to the clips on the bottom of the Drum Bearing.
-- Reinstall front and top panels
-- Plug in electrical
-- Dry

Checked the fuse box to see if any breakers tripped on the two 120 lines feeding the dryer.

Checked for clogged exhaust vents/hose/etc, cleaned.

Some paint flaking off inner drum around heat vent.

Unplug & disassembled unit. Took pictures for reference to help with reassembly later. Upon removing drum, found sagging heat coils, one broken, some heat damage to the housing near the top. Determined that more than just coils needed replacing.

Also checked each of the three heat sensors (cycling thermostat, high limit thermostat & safety thermostat) with the digital multimeter. All were positive continuity for low temps.

Tested ONLY the cycling thermostat on the kitchen stove with burner set to warm. Check burner temp with meat thermometer to see it exceed 120F. Continuity broke at high temp. Although the cycling thermostat seemed ok with my generic test, I decided to replace it anyway.

My understanding of the Safety Thermostat & High Limit Thermostat is that they work like safety fuses, breaking at dangerous temps, but not resetting afterward. So these were only tested at room temperature, not with heat.

With the unit open, I checked other components for signs of wearing out. Also cleaned the unit more thoroughly.

Reassembled in stages. The belt is the trickiest part to get back on the motor & tension pulley, it's just a little awkward to reach. Tested to make sure the drum moved freely and belt was correct before finishing the reassembly.

Checked to make sure the dryer was still level, after all the moving around, disassembly & reassembly.

Ran several supervised test loads. Felt the temperature. No tripped breakers or smoke. Exhaust was flowing unhindered. Clothes got dry.

I followed the very easy YouTube video and got the three tools I needed before beginning. I started with removing the parts of the dryer and that was extremely simple by following the steps in the video. Took the door off last, located the parts that need replaced that didn't require any tools at all. Then put all the parts of the dryer back on in the order I removed them. The entire process was about 25 minutes but I would say I spent more time really cleaning the dryer and lint build up than actually doing the repair. Video was super thorough and easy to follow, I've never attempted any kind of repair of an appliance and I'm extremely happy that I had the video and the parts that were recommended to fix my problem, were spot on. Saved me hundreds of dollars and time. Thank you so much!

I watched the repair video 3 times to make sure I was comfortable to do the repair.the video was very helpful.thank you ! Everything went well and the dryer runs great.

UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.

The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.