DBSR453GB1CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

Checked all thermostats, they were good. Circuit was getting 220 vac. Eventually found fuse in the back near the heating element, same was bad. By-passed same, and when we did, the timer Popped & arched !. Not sure why. Motor protectrion fuse found to be good. Heating elements good. Fuse was the only bad part found, never figured out what caused it to blow. Appliance was taken away after purchase of new one. Problem not found or resolved by self diagnostics. Originally the exhaust duct was somewhat clogged with lint, but not severely.

To get inside the dryer in this model is extreemly difficult. I had to remove the side panel. In order to do this I needed to take off the screws on the back cover side where I needed to replace the cord. Then I needed to remove the screws to take off the top cover, front door, rear panel, trim switch, and end cap. I also had to remove the front door. After that I could tak off the side panel and change the cord.

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

First, disconnect the dryer from the outlet. I started by removing the knobs from the front, then removing the panel that covered the knobs by removing the screws on top. This requires a special star-shaped screwdriver, easy and cheap to get at Home Depot. DO NOT try using a phillips screwdriver. It will strip out the heads of the screws. Once you have removed that, disconnect the wires from the switch, noting which wire went to which connection. They're numbered 1 through 4 although you only use three of them. You will see that the switch has a skinny, narrow "tab" sticking out the side (look at the new one for reference). You will need to gently lift the end of that while "unscrewing" the switch from the panel (you might need a pair of pliers if it's rusted, but DO NOT force). Once out, just replace with the new switch, making sure to use the numbers for connections and not just where they're positioned on the back of the switch. Reassemble and you're done. It took me about 40 minutes including my trial-and-error. Using these directions, I think I could have done the whole thing in about 15-20 minutes.

I watched the installation video a of couple of times and followed the instructions. Two screws under the dryer door then the top comes off. Then two screws hold the front on come out. Unplugged the two wires to the switch. Removed the duct assembly. Cleaned up the door and snapped in the new duct assembly. Re-installed the door and then the top. Everything was easy - just like in the video.

remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

After some research on the internet, I deduced the squeaking sound in our dryer was due to defective drum glides. I ordered a set of four of the white type, knowing only our model requires four glides, but not knowing there are two types for two locations. After disassembling the dryer I realized I needed more parts - two green slides and a new top bearing assembly. The dryer drum had eaten thru glides and into the plastic assembly. That was the reason for the squeaking noise - metal sliding against hard plastic. I ordered the additional parts directly from the manufacturer to ensure I got it right. After all the parts arrived, the repair was easy and took less than 30 minutes. I actually had my 17 year-old daughter do the work to teach her some skills. I just instructed her and stepped in on assembling the top that was just a bit tricky to put back on. Problem fixed.

I arrive home to the dreaded news, "The dryer is broken, I simply turned it on and smelled smoke!"
I replied "What unbreakable item did you break today?"
She showed me the dryer, we did a sniff test, removed the front control panel and determined it was probably the start switch. We took a shot, went online and ordered the part required from the best source of information that we could find, partselect.com.
The part arrived within two days and we installed it within minutes of its' arrival and it only took about 10 minutes. Plugged it in and we are back in business. This beats even the Maytag repair man!

After unplugging the dryer, I removed the rear cover of the control area by removing 3 phillips screws on the back of the dryer - There is also a lower small panel that will come out along with the rear control panel cover during this operation. Next I removed 4 T20 Star type screws on the top painted edge of the control panel. The panel then tilted forward allowing good access to the start switch. I removed the switch from the panel WITHOUT taking off the wires as I wanted to verify that I was getting the wires transfered correctly. Both the new and old switch have number designations by the connection terminals. Once I had transfered the wires to the new switch by associating the numbers on the switch. The terminal with two wires has a little adapter that comes out with the two wires. I placed the new switch into the hole on the control panel, gave it a twist to engage the holding clips and when rotated into place, the switch "clicked" as it locked the little arm that sticks out of the side of the switch into place. Reassembly of the panels was easy, just put the panels back into place and torque down the screws and replace the control knob. Even though I had to purchase a set of stardrivers to complete this repair, the whole repair process ran only $30.00 and I ended up owning a set of star-screwdrivers. The last time Mr. Repairguy was here it ran over $200.00! Also, the documentation offered by Parts Select made locating and getting access to the switch fairly easy.

Replaced drum bearing part and white slides.The problem was that it was not the drum slide support. It appears to be the the drum rear bearing of whch I am now ordering. The bearing replacement is a little more difficult, but I have taken this on as a challenge

followed instructions that came with kit. The problem was the instructions were not very clear with regard to the "type" of burner. the "A" type with the slot is explained but the "B" without the slot wasen't clearly explained. Even that wasen't too bad (I had to re-do that part), But you need to be 20 years old to see the damned print. I had to use my reading glasses AND a magnifying glass to read them. Also with the "B" type burner, which I have, you simply install the limiter part and you don't need (can't) adjust it.

I replaced the start switch but that didn't correct the problem -- which turned out to be that one of the wires on the door switch had fallen off!

Just push the new knob over the metal pin