DCCB330GDW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!

I first watched the video on how to. Being mechecanically inclined I dismantled and removed everything needed to replace the drum bearing. Also removed belt at the same time. I replaced the bearing, then the belt. The belt could be a little tricky for some people. Getting the belt on the tension pulley could be a problem. What I did was I got a large nylon tie and put it around the armature of the motor. I then retracted the pulley just enough to be able to slip the belt over it. Of course this is all performed through the limited space on the bottom left, between the drum and the dryer shell. Once on the pulley, I cut the tie with wire cutters and it snapped into place. Rotated the drum a couple of times to line the belt with the pulley, perfect. I then put everything back together. I also cleaned any and all the lint that had gathered throughout the exhaust. Pluged the dryer in, perfect. Just like new. One more note getting the parts was so easy also. Your website and how to demo was a great help. Thank you, thank you very much. The words of the late Elvis Presley. They never get old.

Used online instructions. Worked well.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

My husband and I had taken apart this dryer before, so the second time was a lot easier. The first time we took it apart it took 2-3 frustrating hours. So, if it's your first time, plan for longer.

1. Before we started anything we unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
2. We removed the top and loosened the contol panel on top.
3. We removed the front. Be careful of the wires. You can label them, or just remember where they go.
4. Lay the dryer down on it's back. This make's it easier to remove the drum.
5. Remove the drum, but gently slide the belt off first. Don't stretch the belt removing it.
6. Once the drum was removed, we removed the screws from the inside of the drum.
7. We didn't need to use the entire kit, just the part that sits in the center and spins...kinda looks like a top. (Yes, that's my technical description)
8. We screwed in the new "top" and put the dryer back together.

Really the only part I had to help with (this time)was putting the drum back in to make sure it sat where it was supposed to. It made a big difference that it was laying on it's back...we didn't do that the first time, which was part of our frustration.

Putting the belt back on is a little tricky too. We had instructions still for our dryer to refer to put it back on. If you don't have yours, just google or bing for the instructions. There's website's out there with great pictures.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Had a repair shop quote 230 for repair . Spent 66 on parts and did the repair in 45 minutes using the instructions from folks on this site . Very happy with results thanks

- Removed two screws at top left and right of door.
- Removed top dryer panel
- Removed two screws holding front panel in place
- Noticed drum slide was missing because front drum bearing was worn away and slide had fallen off.
- Went ahead and removed drum to replace rear drum bearing (probably not needed; should have disassembled it first to discover this). Would have been better to pull drum first (loosen idler pulley and release belt, pull drum straight out) instead of attempting to unscrew bearing. Be sure to note how the idler pulley is set.
- vacuumed tons of lint up
- Replaced bearing (needed a second person for this; drum too big to reach around. be sure to pre-thread the bearing)
- Ordered front drum bearing, waiting to repair it now, should be good after this.

as per your instructions. The copy of the directions was very hard to read

The front panel must be removed on this unit after turning off power supply. First open dryer door and.remove the 2 screws facing upwards. Disconnect the light if applicable, using a putty knife insert under top to free the top from front cover this is to push on the retaining tabs that are inboard of the screw areas that you have removed. Raise top panel. It is hinged at settings panel. This is completely removable by sliding to the side Then locate the 2 small screws located in the side panels near the top. Once these are removed the front cover will be able to be removed carefully moving forward while supporting the drum you know can see the parts that need replacing on the lower right. Take a picture as reference!! With power off remove the retaining clip that holds the dryer solenoids in place using a short stubby screwdriver. One at a time replace solenoid by lifting and disconnecting the wires (they snap on.) Good time to also check for excess lint and clean out. Check drum bearing and glides..reassemble in reverse order ..

Removed 2 screws to remove top. Removed 2 other screws to remove front. Removed old parts. Installed new parts. Reassemble all afetr cleaning duct work out.

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

Good thing my husband is so handy. This part was very difficult to get to. Basically, he had to take apart almost the whole dryer. There is no access door so the side panel had to be removed, but before you could do that the front panel and door had to come off, then the top of the dryer. Keep track of the screws, we had a few leftover! But the dryer works great again and we hope to get several more years out of it. We've had no problems with it until now and it's over 15 yrs. old.

Pull the old lint trap out. Slid new one in

It went perfect , just put it in. No tools needed.