FASG7074LR0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Miles from Austin, TX
- Parts Used:
- 5303931775
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer did not stay hot through complete cycle
This repair took about fifteen minutes. I popped the top of the dryer using a flat-blade screwdriver, leaned it back against the back wall, unscrewed two screws holding the front panel, removed the five electrical spade contacts after marking which went where, swung out the panel and lifted it off. After that, it was a simple job to unscrew the plate holding the solenoids in, at the bottom left of the unit. I replaced the solenoids, closed everything up and now the dryer is working better than it has in the last three years, or so. If your dryer is heating sporadically, the odds are 85%, or more, that a solenoid swap-out will correct the problem.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Los Angeles, CA
- Parts Used:
- 5303931775
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer Won't Heat Up
Never knew I was handy, but I did it! I was reluctant to spend a couple $100 on a repair visit, so found this site and bought the coils I needed for only $26+tax. It's pretty easy. I just lifted up the top of the dryer with a screw driver, should snap open. Then unscrewed the front panel with two screws from the inside. Then located the old coils on the bottom left. The bracket that holds them is a little difficult to remove as you need to have a small philips screw driver to get the back one. But once I got that off, just unplugged the old ones and put the bracket back, then the panels and it WORKED. The only problem I have is that I didn't take the door switch off properly and now the dryer doesn't stop spinning if I open the door and want to check the clothes. So I may have to get someone in eventually.
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- Customer:
- Edwin from Brooklyn, NY
- Parts Used:
- 5303931775
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
no heat
Remove top cover 2 screws then remove front panel 6 screws remove wire connecter on the door panel. ignition coil is on the bottom left side need a short hand srew driver remove 2 screws remove plate holding coils remove coils and connecter. Reinstall in reverse installation. Dryer still didnt heat up so back to the drawing board :)
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- Customer:
- David from Irvine, CA
- Parts Used:
- 137539200
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Error code 66 - door open
Remove 2 screws at the upper rear attached to the top panel. Slide panel rear back and remove. Remove 2 screws attached to the front control panel. Lift panel upward. Remove 4 screws attached to the front panel (2 at the top, under the control panel, two at the very bottom). Lift front panel up and off, and unplug connector to door switch. Remove some more screws on the internal front panel edges, and the front to back brace holding up the control board. Lift panel up and out, and remove the drum, too. Thermal limiter located toward the rear, attached to the heating vent tube. Disconnect and replace. Re-assemble in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- Bert from Silver City, NM
- Parts Used:
- 137539200
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The Heating System Of The Propane Dryer Stopped Working
When I direct the dryer exhaust into the room during the winter there is an external lint filter in the ducting. For some reason,enough lint got by the dryers filter and over a few cycles clogged the exhaust. I correctly assumed that the dryer overheated and some thermal limiter had opened up. The manual had exploded views and I located the limiter. Getting to it was another issue. The manual gave nbo instructions on getting to the limiter, but I had installed a propane conversion kit when I first got the dryer. It was necessary to remove the top, control panel, and front panel/door assembly. Disconnecting the gas line,some cable connectors, and a few screws allowed the removale of the burner assembly, then removal of the metal tube that surrounded the burner assembly and held a number of sensors, including the thermal limit, which, as expected, showed an open circuit. The replacement part was ordered and checked out as a closed circuit, which it should. Reassembly was the reverse. A little difficult to work in the cramped lower corner of the dryer. I'm 82 years old now but machines cannot beat me!!
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