FDGC847GFS1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

UNPLUGGED the dryer!!! Search this site they have instructions for many of the tasks they sell parts for... disconnect the vent hose, removed the access panel for the motor & belt (rear) (1/4 nut driver), slipped the belt off the idler pulley and motor pulley, carefully lifted the front edge of the top panel & rotated it back on the hinges, labeled and removed the door interlock wires (2), removed 4 screws securing the top of the front panel (5/16 nut driver) (magnetic is best), removed a yellow guide also attached to the top of the front support (5/16 nut driver), rotated the top of the front panel clear of the drum opening (while supported) and lifted the front panel off the bottom guides, carefully lifted the back of the drum straight up about an inch while supporting the front of the drum, remove the drum from the opening created by removing the front panel (the belt should come out with the drum, removed the rear parts of the new bearing (atteched to teh back of the dryer) 5/16 nut driver... you will need a helper to catch the ball bearing holder on the exterior back of the dryer in the middle, unscrew the drum half of the bearing assembly from inside the drum (3 phillips head screws). I have done this several years ago and you will be amazed at how much dust and lint there is... CLEAN AND VACUUM EVERYWHERE AND THEN ALL THE PLACES YOU MISSED DONT FORGET THE VENT HOSE. Clean all of the old grease from the back of the drum and dryer. Installation is the reverse of removal. Don't forget the new grease and DON"T loose the cute little ball bearing that comes in the new kit. There are lots of sharp metal edges inside so use caution and hopefully you got a new belt since belt replacement requires all of the same steps except for the actual bearing removal.

I can attest to this system only on my model since this is the second bearing I have done.

Sure beats the cost of a new dryer!!! Thanks PARTS SELECT This is the 5th appliance I have repaired for freinds and family with parts purchased from your site.

Took a putty knife and released top clips. Tipped top back , and took out 4 screws holding front cover in place. Lifted out drum, replaced bearing plate. Removed 2 screws and replaced back panel bearing. Placed drum back in place, installed front panel, snapped top back in place and job was done. Very easy. Took about one hour.

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

Looking from the front at the top cover I lifted the cover with my fingers and inserted a screw driver about one or two inches from each edge.
The top pops loose and lifts up like the hood of a car.
Inside the dryer on either side behind the front panel there is one screw on each side. Remove the screws and lift the entire panel and door. Then swing the assembly out like a door with a hinge on the right. It won't come off due to the wiring harness.
Make sure you study the upper drum glide before removing it. Remove the upper drum glide using Acetone, this is easy but a little messy.
Apply glue, I applied to the drum but if I did it again I would apply it to the glide and clamp it to the drum in three or four places.
This is an income property and my tenants weren't happy so I didn't wait for the other parts. I don't know now if I really needed them. I will replace them anyway.
I realize they make these things easy to repair. It makes the $200+ they charge that much more profitable.
I also vacuumed and cleaned inside.
This is pretty easy and does not require much skill.
Position the panel on the dryer. There are two clips that need to lined up on the bottom and fit the drum back on. Then snap the top cover in and test the dryer.
Remove the top replace the front panel screws and snap the top back in.

I wish I could post pictures there really isn't much to it.
For property owners I would recommend learning how to do this prior to getting a call.
Create a kit of parts that will wear or break. $100 will save you the hassle of ordering under pressure and get you up and running that much faster.

Taking apart the dryer was easy. Pop the top, take out two screws, separate the front panel from the drum. Removed the old felt seals but much remained. Used a wire wheel on my drill to clean off felt and old glue (most difficult part). Applied new glue,used a band clamp, one hour later I reassembled the dryer; works fine. No more burn marks on clothes!

removed old seal and drum glide. sanded off old glue. replaced with new parts, cleaned out the whole bottom of the dryer, runs good as new.

First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.

Just like in the video, but with a stackable washer/dryer unit, works like new now....

First removed the top of the dryer, then the front of the dryer. Took the plate off the back left of the dryer to disengage the belt off the pulley.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.

lacked instructions. Internet yielded a simple paragraph. Scored real bonus when we discovered the lint build up past the internal filter was approaching catastropic level. Replaced the exhaust tube (plastic) with rigid metal and resolved to disassemble and clean dryer on 2 year cycle in future. Kit just isn't complete without detailed instructions. Parts were complete and sufficient. Local codes have eliminated the plactic exhaust tube. Recommend that all old installs refit to rigid or semirigid before the fire happens!

Took it apart, lost several screws cause I am an Idiot, placed belt back on, cut hand on back of dryer bled over every thing, curse loudly, put it back together and wiped the blood off, worked perfect!

I went great, worked fine, thanks for your very quick shipment. I will always buy from you if I can!

Thanks again
Bill Manning Florida

I unpluged the dryer, raised the top cover up, removed 2 two screws & pulled front cover out. Removed the old seal, cleaned the area & installed the new seal. Reinstalled as new. Very, very easy.

Opened top of dryer with screw driver,removed two screws securing the front door. moved door away from dryer. Removed old felt from door,scraped area to remove old glue and felt. Lightly sanded area to clean. Applied new provided glue and let set for 1 minute. put new felt in place and applied three small clamps to hold in place. Waited 1 hour and reassembled dryer.

took apart and replaced parts easy to do but no one in my town can get me parts. thay want 100.00 gust to come out and look at it so found parts online and thats that

popped in one in