CRER442AS0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Took off front panel, removed drum and replaced parts listed. A bit tricky to keep small parts in place. However, masking tape helped. Best of all was the online diagram of how the parts were assembled. In addition, taking step by step phone pixs aided in replacing parts since there was some down time between diagnosis and installation.

watch the video first very helpful, was a lot easier than I thought.Dryer was pretty old but I figured what the heck.I replaced front lower basket seal,drum glide,dryer seal,belt,and bearing.Worst part was removing old top and bottom basket seals, a lot of elbow grease.I wouldn't have attempted it if not for the video. Dryer works great thanks partslect I will deffinitly shop here again very pleased, hope to get a few more years out of it.

Disconnected power and vent then pulled away from wall. You will need to move the dryer away from the wall to replace the ground bearing and retaining plate and/or the dryer belt. Removed top of dryer, disconnected wiring harness' then removed the two screws that hold the front panel on the dryer. After removing the two screws, lift out and then up on the front panel. This should remove it from the retaining clips on the bottom. To remove the dryer belt, remove access panel on rear/ bottom left of dryer. Just inside the panel you will see a tension pulley held by a spring. Use your hands to relieve the tension on the belt and remove the belt from the bottom pulleys. Now go to the side of the dryer and attempt to lift up on the front and back of the drum to remove it from the rear bearing guide. There is a slot that it rides in and it only needs to come up about an inch or so. If you cannot get the the rear bearing free this way, you will have to get inside the drum and remove the three screws in the back of the drum. There are two sets of screws, remove the inside circle of screws. At this point, the drum should slide out the front of the dryer. Use aSharpie to mark the center of the top guide on the metal then use a chisel or putty knife to remove the old guides from the front panel of the dryer. You probably won't be able to remove all of the old glue, but make sure you remove all of the old felt. Lay the panel front down and apply glue to the new top guide. Line up center of top guide with the mark you made earlier. Clamp in place. I used several spring clamps, but clothes pins will work. Now put glue on the bottom guide and clamp it in place. The bevel on the bottom guide will point to the back of the dryer. Now, while your dryer is disassembled and the glue is drying CLEAN IT OUT!!! You'll have no better opportunity to thoroughly clean this thing. Remove old bearing guide from the back of the dryer and replace with the new one. This will include the new grounding bearing and retaining plate. Apply high temp grease (generously) to the new bearing guide. Remove old rear drum bearing from drum and install new one. Take old belt off drum and put new one on. Place drum back in dryer cabinet. Be sure new belt doesn't snag or hang on anything. Guide the new rear drum bearing into the groove on the top of the guide and push down into place. It should be a snap ;-). GO to back of dryer and reinstall new dryer belt around pulleys. I put a little of the high temp grease on the guide pulley shaft on the tensioner. Replace access panel. Reinstall front panel by placing bottom back into the two retaining clips and then use your free hand to lift up the drum and guide it into place around the new guides while pushing the top of the panel into place. Replace top screws in front panel and reconnect wiring harness'. Replace top of dryer, slide dryer into place and reattach vent. Hope thos helps someone. It really wasn't very hard.

replaced old filter, only to find that the new one had the same issue. After closer examination, I determined the filter guide that screws into place, which I had removed earlier to clean lint out, did not hold the lint casing correctly. I removed and reinstalled the piece that has the metal moisture sensors, and replaced it, ensure both screws held the lint casing as it should. Now I have two lint filters that fit perfectly! So, if you ever remove the piece wtih the metal sensors, make sure that the lint casing is screwed in correctly when replacing.

First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.

This is actually a white consolidated IND. brand, but that wasn't on your list. Be sure to check your tensioner pully if you hear squealing coming from the dryer. I changed the felt ring and the support bearing before realizing that my pully bushing was the cause of the noise. If you have squealing then spray a little wd40 on the bushing and shaft, if the noise stops, then you found the smoking gun. Replace the pulley. Unhook the spring and it comes right off. No tools needed.

Waited only 2 days for part. That was with REGULAR delivery. It usually takes weeks to get out to REMOTE northern Minnesota.
Unstacked the dryer took off the top. 2 screws to open front. Pulled 3 drum mounting screws. Pulled the drum. Removed the pivot. Cleaned (blowed and vacuumed everywhere). Cleaned the pivot receptacle. Relubed the pivot with high temp lube. Removed 2 motor assy mounting screws. Screwed off the squirrel cage. Swapped the motor. Remounted new motor assy. Looped belt over drum. Remounted the drum. Closed the front. Closed the top. Opened the belt access plate on the rear. Looped new belt over the tensioner. Closed the access plate. Restacked dryer. Turned it on. Sounds like brand new. Less than 2 hours. Saved more than $800. More than I generally make an hour! Actually I saved a lot more than $800 because I probably would have had to buy both the washer and dryer stack so it could have been around $2500.
Everything I ordered arrived in 1 box and all parts are right!
Now in my spare time I need to replace the bearings on the old motor and I'll be ready for the next time, in another 10 years!

Unplugged the dryer from electrical socket. Vacuumed lint from dryer and exit hose. Removed top from dryer. Used pliers to remove the 2 wires from the thermal limiter. Used screwdriver to remove 2 screws that held the limiter in place.
Installed the new limiter, connected the 2 wires, plugged in the dryer's electrical connection, turned on dryer, and resumed my "washday chores".

1) Unplug the unit.
2) Remove all screws from top of the unit except for the one in the center front that does not go through the outer casing.
3) Find the Thermal Limiter which is on the back wall near the top on the left side when looking from the front.
4) Disconnect the two wires
5) Remove the two screws that mount the limiter to the back wall.
6) Use an ohmeter to test if a current flows through the unit. If no current flows through (an open switch), then the unit will need to be replaced.
7) Clean any lint that you can at this point.
8) Use two screws to mount new Thermal Limiter
9) Reconnect the two wires to the Limiter.
10) Attach the top of the dryer case.

I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.

This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.

had to remove the belt and drum and then remove the motor and replace it...put the belt on and then the hard part was to get the drum in place without the belt coming off. New Motor works quieter than the old one did, so I assume the dryer came with a defective motor to begin with and then the shaft finally broke. It runs very quiet now, but never did before. Even a service man came when it was new but said that was normal. Now we know it was not....there was a problem from the start.

After reading about similar problems people have had with this make of dryer, I focused attention on the thermal limiter. I determined that it was the culprit by "jumping" it with a 6" piece of wire. Then I simply went on the site, ordered the part. It arrived a few days later and I pulled out the old one, screwed in the new one, and the dryer is good as new.

0) Turned off breaker at panel and disconnected power cord from 240v wall outlet
1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer.
2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood.
3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord
4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer
5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer.
6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals
7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire
8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block
9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire.
10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws
11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block
12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet
13) Turned breaker back on

Other repair stories about this product are very accurate and I used them to do the repair, so I see no need to be redundant.

I'd just like to draw attention to the following:
Disassembling the dryer is somewhat easy. Replacing the heating element is very easy.
Replacing the belt is very easy.

Replacing the drum bearing is somewhat difficult. I purchased a "T" screwdriver in order to get more torque on the screws. When I had the drum bearing in place and the screws partially inserted, I laid a piece of thick foam on the floor and set the drum, bearing side down, on the foam. It is very difficult to get enough tension on the screws to get them through the bearing plate, but setting the drum up this way at least allows you to use gravity to your advantage.

Thanks again to Part Select for making the part purchasing experience so effortless.

Thanks to other writers of "Repair Stories" for making my repair so easy.