GCGT1041AS1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

After the new replacement part arrived, I took off the complete back panel (after unplugging the electrical and shutting off the hot & cold water supply). I disconnected both hot & cold water hoses, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the water valve, unplugged the 2 electrical wires for the water valve sending unit, unclamped the outlet water hose. Then I reversed order with new water valve. Put everthing back together in about 20 minutes overall. I did also replace the hot & cold water supply hoses with a better quality hose. Works like new! Thank you very much.

removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve was made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.

I removed the top of the washer by removing two screws on the back. I located and bypassed the lid switch to make sure that wasn't the problem. The problem still existed so I removed the two screws that hold the front panel of the washer. Using a flashlight, I located the drive belt and immediately saw that it was out of position and had pieces missing. I cut and removed the old belt, placed the new belt on the tub pulley and slowly maneuvered it onto the motor drive wheel. I then squeezed the tensioner pulley so that the belt was seated. I turned the timer dial which started the washer and it immediately began pumping the water out of the tub. Problem solved!

First I read the manual on how to replaced the dryer drum belt. Second I took off the front panel. This would involving taken all screws from the top of the dryer face and the front panel. Thirdly I removed the exhaust attachment. Then I saw that the belt broke. Really it looked torned apart. I believe too heavy of a load in dryer. I then installed the new belt and reversed everyhing I did to start. The dryer runs great. This is not that bad of a job. If you can do it yourself, why pay hunreds on a service man to do the job.

S/O Water , Removed front panel, removed screws from side panel water valve accessible. Removed screws that hold water valve, installed new valve reassembled washing machine.

I removed the front panel to see the belt was snapped in two. The front roller is sping loaded, so I gave it a little tention, slid the belt back on and viola! it was that easy. If your washer starts to vibrate more and sounds louder than normal, get a belt as soon as possible because that may be the problem. Once I put on the new belt, the machine ran as quiet as it did when I first bought it.

Unplug the unit. The top of the dryer is held down by 2 simple friction pins. By lifting the dryer top above it's front door panel the top will swing up. Prop the top up so you can reach down the front panel. There are 2 Phillips screws about 6 inches down on the dryers front panel. Remove the 2 screws, tip the front panel toward you it will slip off the dryer drum. Remove the 2 push on wires attached to the door switch. Gently lift the front panel off the 2 hinge points at the bottom and set it aside. The parts that your going to replace are the 2 solenoids on the burner assembly. The burner assembly is located on the lower left side of the dryer. Remove the 2 Philips screws that "clamp" the solenoids in place. Pull the 3 & 2 wire friction connectors off the solenoids. Lift the clamp off the top of the solenoids. Pick the 2 solenoids up off the valve assemble. Put the 2 new solenoids on the valve assembly push the wires back on, put the clamp back on and resemble the dryer. *Note: just to make a quick check on the continuity of the solenoids. I suspended the dryer drum so it could rotate without damaging it, put my clamp on amp probe on the 120v line to the solenoids the 3 wire one was good the 2 wire one was open.

I installed this part on a stackable washer-dryer unit. First, I removed the hoses (one had broken off already, damaging the cold water coupling). Using a nut driver I removed the screws on both L-brackets in back that help secure the dryer unit to the washer base. Then, I located 2 other screws securing the dryer to the washer base. These were fairly accessible in the recess where the dryer exhaust vent is located, directly above the water inlet valve. I removed both with a nut driver. I thought I would have to also unscrew 2 more screws on the other side of the dryer, but these were not accessible. So I lifted the side of the dryer I had unbolted to get to the water inlet valve. And voila! It lifted up. I placed a 2x4 on edge to keep the dryer tilted open. The inlet valve is attached to the back inside of the washer by a single screw on the Kenmore, which I removed with a phillips screw driver. Reaching inside the back of the washer, I disconnected the water hose by pinching the retaining clip with pliers. Then I pulled the electrical connections off the the hot and cold solenoids and the unit came out. The replacement unit was installed in reverse.

watched video on replacing rear bearing.although rear bearing was not the part(s) i needed to replace, video instructed disassembly procedures to get to the drum glides. this was a very simple and easy to follow video. repair was a breezeand took roughly 25 minutes. the most time consuming segement of repair was vaccuuming out lint,that was 15 minutes. In future, as a preventative, i plan to remove front of machine to clean annually.
Thank you.

Unplug, lift top, unplug 5 wires, remove 2 screws, pull dryer front away while supporting drum. Remove old glides, snap in new. Reverse disassembly procedure

I followed the written instructions that came with the kit. They were relatively straight forward. Had problems getting the burner unit out.
Had to disconnect from 4" tube and disconnect all wiring.
Kit came with parts not needed.
Only needed to replace orfice and regulator control.
Tight area to work in.

I used a screwdriver to remove the front of the washing machine, fit the belt around the main pulley, held in the spring loaded tension pulley, and threaded the belt aound. It works great! I really need this inexpensive repair, since my job was downsized, and I can't afford to pay anyone.

I removed the front access panel above the washer and removed the top dryer front panel. Then pulled out the drum and noticed the drum support ball stud had broken off, rather than order a new one, I welded it back on with a mig welder. I then replaced the drum support bearing and reinstalled the drum. I then installed the new belt before placing the front top panel in place. I removed the small vented panel on the back side to access the belt tensioner and fit the belt around the pulley and motor shaft. The whole job took less than an hour.

Removed old filter, installed new filter

First I did some research and concluded the water inlet needed replacing. Obviously once you know what you need you go to PartSelet.com for parts and installation info. I went through the front of the machine. So I removed the front of the washer(2 screws at the front bottom)slide down the panel to separate it, lifted the top cover of the washer(2 screws on the underside of the lid and 3 wire connectors to the fill switches) and then loosened the right side panel(3 screws at the bottom). Now pushing the wash barrel to the side it gave me enough room to squeeze my arms in to the inlet part. Be careful there are sharp edges and screw tips inside the machine. I removed the 2 wire connectors(hot and cold solenoids) inside the washer and then removed the screw from the back outside that holds the water inlet to the machine. Now I was able to pull the inlet closer to me so I could get pliers on the hose clamp to loosen and remove the old part. The new part was an improved version that was more solid. I attached the hose affixed the squeeze hose clamp and pushed the water inlet into place. The screws were not threading so I grabbed a couple of self taping hex head screws and a nut driver head for my drill and screwed the inlet in from the back of the washer. Then I replaced the wire connectors to the water inlet. With the water inlet complete, I reattached the right side panel, the washer lid, fill switch connectors and the front panel. Washer fixed and running perfectly!