GCGT1041AS1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

1. Pry Dryer top up and off the clips. (Front of Dryer)
2. Remove 2 phillips screws on the inside of front panel.
3. Lift front panel up and set off to the side
4. Removed 2 phillips screws with short handled phillips driver that hold the gas valve coil bracket in place.
5. Unplugged and removed both coils, installed new coils and bracket. Re installed front panel, screws and top.

Unplugged the washer/dryer combo unit from the wall.

Slid the unit forward on plastic bags until back and side were accessible (being careful of the dryer duct and washer water lines).

Removed the vented plate on the back to access the motor and idler arm using a LARGE-HEADED Phillips-head screwdriver.

Pulled out the broken belt.

Removed 10 of the 11 screws holding the top on (leave the center front one; undo the front corners last, taking care not to let the front panel slip forward — it supports the drum).

Opened the dryer door and gently pulled the front plate forward, supporting the drum from the inside with one hand so it didn't fall.

Worked the belt around the drum and between the front of the drum and the front panel. Held it mostly taut around the drum to slide it back to the existing belt mark. Grooved rubber side of the belt goes on the inside.

Pushed the front panel back into position while seating the drum on it. Temporarily attached the top with two back and two front screws. (The front panel overlaps the top; the top goes over everything else.)

Scratched my head trying to figure out how the belt goes around the motor shaft and idler arm; searched the web; searched the web some more.

Routed the belt left-to-right over the idler arm pulley, pushed the idler arm to the left, routed the belt around the motor shaft and then up over the drum.

The idler arm should (a) press on the OUTSIDE of the belt, (b) take up all the slack in the belt, and (c) not touch the motor shaft (touching it is what causes the awful noise). The belt should contact the motor shaft past the two nut-like things on the shaft (not between them).

Plugged the unit in and turned the dryer on to test it.

Replaced the other 8 top screws; replaced the vented plate on the back.

Wondered how I ever took having a clothes dryer for granted.

Just as others described in your forum, getting to the gas valve solenoid coils is relatively easy. Pop the top lid and lay it back, remove 2 inside screws that fasten the front cover and pull back off the snap clips and lift up and off. Remove 3 screws that hold the entire gas control assembly to the bottom of the dryer and remove. Unfasten 2 screws on the valve that lock the plate on top of the two coils, unplug the electrical spade lug connections and remove. Install the new coils and do everything in reverse. Easy as 1-2-3.

I did not troubleshoot my gas dryer to find the exact part that needed to be replaced. Instead, I did some research and found that the ignition coils are an extremely common problem.

The top panel of my gas dryer is attached by two snap clips located in the front, about three inches in from each side. I slid a butter knife in the space between the top panel and the front panel to push the clips and release the top panel. Front panel is attached by two screws, one on each side. I removed the front panel to access the heating system on the bottom left of my dryer and immediately saw the two ignition coils with a metal cover on top of them. Removing the metal cover was a little difficult because the two screws holding it in place were stuck. Once the metal cover is off, the two coils simply slide out. On my dryer, the bigger coil had a metal sleeve inside the core. I kept it and used it with my replacement parts.

The most difficult part of the repair was figuring out how to take appart the dryer to access the heating system. Now, the ol' lady is bragging to her friends that I didn't just fix the dryer, but that i've actually made it better than when it was new ;-)

After removing the front of the washer, I used slip joint pliers for the hose clamps, then a screwdriver for the mount bolts and replaced the pump motor in reverse order. The pump was ordered on line on a Friday before 10am and was delivered on saturday moring by FedEx. I could not have expected such fast and efficent service!
Great Job!!

It turned out that the pump was fine. There is a filter within the rubber bellows between the washer drum and the motor. You need to remove the entire bellows to get to it. Just remove the motor and you can un-clip the hose tensioners. They are exactly like the ones you would fine on most foreign cars - just compress with pliers and move back on the hose. Clean out the plastic filter. A small nail had worked its way through the plastic filter and lodged in the motor impeller. Removing this nail and reassembling, it all worked as new! I kept the pump and motor as a future spare rather than return it.

remove side panel & start rinse cycle & heard a grinding noise in discharge pump. used a bucket to catch water upon removeal of discharge hose to pump. unplug disconnect plug to motor, remove pump from unit. Discovered propeller was loose in housing. Googled Partselect.com, odered part & in 2 days later installed new pump on unit. Started a load of wash & it has been working perfect ever since. thanks to PartSelect.com for the service, the repair was minimal & easy for the DO IT YOURSELFER. Bill Starry

I got online and found that everyone was charging a king's ransom for a piece of plastic. Your ransom was slightly less. Then I paid $7 shipping and handling for the part which came packed in a box six times its size...I guess all that cardboard costs a mint. I opened the box, removed the lint filter, and put it into my dryer....voila! No more holes!

UNPLUG the appliance. After removing the top of the dryer the front is easily removed. To make life simple I disconnected the wire harrness at the quick disconnect and placed the door/front away from the workspace. I removed the bracket holding the coils in place and replaced the old with the new coils. replaced the front and top panels and pugged it in! Good as new!! I originally ordered the wrong part and PART'S SELCET.COM refunded my money no problem! I will bookmark this site and use it again.

Once I figured out that it would not spin because it did not drain. Unplug machine and remove the back pannel. Locate the drain pump on the bottom of machine. Remove the power wires and the screws holding it to the bottom. Then use a pliers to remove the hose clamps ( was easer for me to tip the machine forward ). Be prepaired to catch or soak up extra water from lines. The hardest part to the install is the limited room you have to work with. Install screws to hold the pump in place then install water lines, power wires and back pannel. Only thing left is to plug it in and watch for leaks.

My Husband did the repair it took less than 15 minutes. He popped the front off the washer. He then unscrewed two screws and removed the pump assembly. He popped the new pump in, and put in the tow screws. Then he put the washer front back on replacing two screws. It took all of five minutes. I am so pleased it was so easy. I told him next time I'd do the repair and he could watch!
Lil

i took out the two back screws lift the top.
took the two bottom front screws , lifted andtook off the front panel.took off the old belt an intall the new one in a circular motion put the panel and top back on and done.

First of all, let me thank your wonder web site and service.


Here is the step-by-step procedure:


Unplugged the power.

Accessed the heater assembly from the front left lower corner.

Turned off the small gas valve.

Unscrewed the copper nut connecting the small gas valve and the heater assembly.

Disconnected the 3 wire connectors.

Unscrewed 2 screws under the heater assembly.

Took out the heater assembly.

Unscrewed the screw for the igniter assembly.

Installed the new igniter assembly. Be very careful with the M shaped coil. I broke a new one. That is why I have order the same part twice. But it still cost me less for hiring a tech or buying a new dryer.

Carefully put the heater assembly back into it position.

Connected the gas connector.

Secured the heater assembly to the bottom of the dryer with 2 screws.

Connected 3 wire connectors.

Turned on the small gas valve.

Plugged in and ran a test.

It worked!!.

After turning the water off and removing the hoses,I pulled the top off by removing the 2 screws from the clips in the back and popping the 2 spring clips in the front. I then removed the 2 side screws left and right to allow room for the sides to move out of the way of the motor. The back panel is spot welded so the panels stayed connected. I then removed the 2 screws from the water overflow guard on the motor. Once removed I unplugged the wire harness from the motor. After that the 4 nuts were taken off of the bottom of the motor. I pushed the belt tensioner in and pulled the motor out. Install the motor making sure the nuts are tight as they can work loose from vibration.

this problem resulted from the belt gone bad so here I replace both ( belt & motor )
FIRST OF ALL DISCONNECT APPLIANCE
1. removing back acces panel to the motor (10" X 10" louver ) 2 screws
2. removing the front door by
a) removing the front panels between washer/dryer
b) removing front control panel 6 screws, pushing downward the panel and disconnecting all electrical junctions
c) remove (2) plastic plugs holding the lint collector from the door ( under the lint screen) using pliers.
d) removing 2 screws at bottom of door (previously covered by front panel) and 4 screws holding down the top panel and the door panel.
3. removing the blower housing 6 screws, + one on the exaust tubing, followed by the blower fan first removing the metal clip with pliers then (by inserting very small (2) screwdrivers under) its locking shaft (the 2 smaller of the 3 sections )you can slip the fan out.
4. removing the back panel of the fan housing 3 screws
5. removing the front and back motor holding clips (pliers) and disconnecting its electrical connector.
GIVE YOUR VACCUUM CLEANER A RIDE
Reinstalation is the reverse process, for the motor and the blower then just slip the belt over the drum (from the front) treading it into its motor wheel (through rear access panel) and tensioning it, replace al the open panel reconnecting all electrical connectors and don't forget to reconnect the clear pastic tubing into its switch actuator.

I did spend more than two hours as I had to explore first the whole assembly, now that I know it two hour should be more than enough, if you follow my instructions and you are a little handy 2 hour should be it.