FSG849GHQ0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Pried the lid up and flipped it back then disconnected the front panel wiring harness and then popped the front panel loose at the top and dropped it down. Disconnected the ignition coils, removed the coil retainer bracket and replaced the coils. Reassembled it in reverse order, performed functional test. Success!

With drum not turning, I removed rear access panel and confirmed that the belt was missing from the motor pulley. The instructional video provided by PS was extremely helpful. It made the job simple. Removal of drum thru front frame was the most difficult part which was relatively easy. Once the front panel and drum were removed, I could then see that the front drum top glide nylon/felt strip needed replacing which I then obtained.

removed the front then removed the belt that turns the drum pulled the drum strait up from the top then removed the bushing from the back wall put the new one in I also put A little grease in the new bushing to keep it from wearing installed the drum and front. realy easy. I'm A Instructor at A technical collage in Winnfield Louisiana and I used this as A project for my students.

Had the drum bearing but had never got a round to putting it in we just let it squeek. Then the belt went. Easy enough, whatched the tutorial once and just did it. 35 minutes and back drying.

no instructions or videos were of this particular unit but the parts appeared to be quite similar across all dryers. Could not find all parts described as potential fails, but found the ignitor to have no continuity. Also replaced ignition coils as they have a high probability of failure. Cleaned everything as well as possible and put dryer back together in reverse of disassembly.

I youtube'd the repair, and repaired it! While I was at it I replaced the belt! (Highly recommend replacing the belt while you are replacing the element!) Was a snap!

Remove drum, replace belt, return drum

Brought up repair video on my smart phone and followed instructions while doing the repair (pausing when needed) and completed the job in under an hour including vacuuming the lint from inside the dryer before re-assembly.

I followed the vidio from yor web site it was great without it i would still be trying to get done.

Part Select got me the right parts in the agreed time--good job. Shut off the power or unplug the dryer which ever is easiest. The toughest part of doing this job was figuring out how the lid came off the dryer, if you have a jack knife or a putty knife you push it in between the top of the dryer and the body about an inch below the dryer top and about six inch from both sides of the dryer front you will hit a latch that releases the top--slip a screw driver into the opening and do the other side. The top can be removed or you can hold it open with a stick. There are two screws that you need to locate they are on the inside of the dryer front about 9" from the top one on each side they are all that hold the front on the body so remove them but carefully not to drop them inside the dryer. On my dryer there were two screw inside the dryer door that held the filter body onto the front that had to be removed too. Then push the screw driver between the front and the body of the dryer like the top and it will pop open. There are some wires going to the front from the body they can be unplug just follow the wires to the connection point. On mine, I squeezed the sides of the connector and the wires pulled apart. Now you can move the front aside. At the lower right in the body you find the valve and heater burner. On top of the valve there are two sets of wires coming off the valve. Disconnect the wires--one set is for a three wire connection the other for two wire connection. Your parts have a two wire coil and a three wire coil. The coils are freed by unscrewing the metal cover that holds them down remove the two screws and that cover then remove the old coil off the valve then replace the new coil with the part that is the same. Three pin coil with three pin coil positioning in the same way as the old coil, then do the other one. Reattached the metal cover with the screws and put it all back together in reverse order. The dryer chamber--the inside of the dryer rests on the front so when you put them together you may have to lift the chamber up to met the face a little (1/4"). Good luck.

There was no heat, the dryer worked in all respects but the flame did not come on to dry the clothes. I suspected the ignighter so I disconected the wire leading to the ignighter and tested the electrical connection with a regular tester used for testing 120 v ac circuits in a normal residential house outlet. I turned the dryer on and used the tester on the incoming electrical line that I disconnected from the ignighter there was power so I determined that the trouble was with the ignighter,it took about ten minutes to replace the ignighter after I received the part from partselect. The dryer worked fine with the new part. A fairly simple job to take the burner out and install the ignighter.

I suspected a worn belt and that's what it was. I watched 2 videos on belt replacement and it was not a hard fix. The only "problems" I could foresee would be moving the drum around if you are not that strong. Its not terribly heavy, just a little awkward. I also sliced the top of my hand a little on the underside of the cabinet when moving the drum. Being a little more careful that wouldn't have happened. Part plus shipping was less then $20, and we now have a great working dryer again. I also got a zap when I forgot I had plugged it back in and was putting the inside screws back and the screwdriver crossed some wires. Nothing bad, just a quick jolt. Remember to unplug it until you're all done!

This repair took about fifteen minutes. I popped the top of the dryer using a flat-blade screwdriver, leaned it back against the back wall, unscrewed two screws holding the front panel, removed the five electrical spade contacts after marking which went where, swung out the panel and lifted it off. After that, it was a simple job to unscrew the plate holding the solenoids in, at the bottom left of the unit. I replaced the solenoids, closed everything up and now the dryer is working better than it has in the last three years, or so. If your dryer is heating sporadically, the odds are 85%, or more, that a solenoid swap-out will correct the problem.

Many thanks for the video you guys put together on replacing dryer belts! I didn't know how I was going to get inside the dryer. I had the dryer apart in 10 minutes! Had to wait a day for the belts to come in. New belt in and dryer running in 15 minutes! Thanks for running a first class operation!! Jim

Everything I needed to know was already on your website. Prying off the top of the dryer (with a big screwdriver under the front of the top) was the hardest thing, since I was afraid I would break something. Only then can the front be removed (taking out just 2 phillips screws). The rest is easy.